18 November 2022

Two 8c+ by Erwan Legrand (14)

Erwan Legrand has done Le Brillant Saoulé (8c+) and Dévers Sévère (8c+) in Buoux. The latter was a FA of a route he bolted together with his father Francois, who won four straight World Cups and three straight World Championships at the beginning of the 90s.

"The route is very physical and the first part is a real endurance test piece. You start with a traverse in a roof that ends with the best move in the world, a 360 rotation with no feet. I have taken 13 sessions to send the route."

So, you sent this climb barefoot?
I've been climbing barefoot on my wall at home since I was little, but I've always climbed outdoors with climbing shoes. I had tried this route for three sessions, and I thought it might be easier by climbing barefoot. Then I started climbing barefoot in it and it immediately felt better so I started trying to chain it but I was falling every time on the 360 move due to my lack of strength in my biceps. One day I managed to pass the 360 coming from the beginning and I arrived at the 7B+ boulder problem in the roof which I almost succeeded, but I fell at the last move of the crux. Then the days after, I still fell on the 360. And on my 13th session in the route, I went back to the 360 and managed the 7B+ and 7A boulder problem at the top of the route, with a very big fight.
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