NEWS

Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha
Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9a+) in , giving it a personal 9a+ grade. "I use two kneepads, and that's why I think it is easier than the version that Andrada made. There is also a new hold on the last part of the boulder where you can cross instead of taking three small holds. Please add thanks to Dave, Alizee, Pol, Andrada, Silvia and Blakpad. Without them, none of this would be possible."

The hybrid route starts with a boulder that Gonzalo was trying for five days. The day before the send he did, Ali Hulk Extension Total (9a+), which is the standing start. Gonzalo has previously sugggested some personal downgrades of other hard core routes. The 38-year-old also spent a lot of time shovelling dirt to raise the soil (40+ cm) so that the falls would be better. In total, this was the tenth sit start ascent, including Dani Andrada's, a bit shorter, FA, meaning it is the most repeated 9b in the world.

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods
Eric Jerome, who previously has done seven 8B+', has done the third ascent of James Webbโ€™s The Multiverse 8C. It was put up in 2014 as an 8B+ but later 8C has been suggested by the two repeaters as well as others who have tried it. "8 days this season and one terrible solo sesh a few years ago. So insanely scrumptious this one!!!"

Could you say something about your ascent?
I first tried Multiverse in Oct. 2020 but at the time I couldnโ€™t convince anyone to go with me, and I didnโ€™t have enough pads to climb on it safely. Additionally, there are tons of options for beta, so itโ€™s really helpful to have people to work with. This year Taylor McNeill was finally finished his Joeโ€™s project and was motivated for Multiverse. He started trying it the previous spring. I was pretty exhausted after having spent a few weeks finishing a project of mine in the Tetons, but I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to try with him. We stayed in an Airbnb nearby for a week and had 3/4 sessions that week.

Taylor sent it and I made some good links. I took a couple of weeks to train in the gym and recover from the Tetons and returned with Isabel Faus for another few days of attempts and got two big overlaps. We thought the season was over and it would be too cold for the long problem, but we miraculously got one more day of great weather. I drove out to meet Daniel Woods, Isabel Faus, Arjan De Kock, and Davin Bagdonas who had found the boulder. Fortunately, I was able to take it down that day before the winter weather rolled in.

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he did the fourth ascents also confirming the upgrade.

Omaha Beach 8b+ onsight by Nolwen Berthier
Nolwen Berthier has made the third female onsight, after Katie Brown and Sasha Digulian, of Omaha Beach (8b+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "With feet everywhere and thousands of crimps, I have to admit that the climbing in RRG suits me well. The Motherload sector and its โ€œMadness Caveโ€ is one of the longest and steepest in the valley, which reminded me of my beginnings in climbing and the hours of training spent in the 45ยฐ overhang of Mโ€™Roc (a gym in France). On my first visit, I did my first 8a+ on sight: โ€œThe Madnessโ€! And its left neighbour โ€œOmaha Beachโ€ was calling me." (c) Pete Whittaker

Full interview on Fanatic Climbing.

Sierra Madre 8C by Stefan Scherz
Stefan Scherz, who in 2019 won Euro Youth Cups in Lead, Boulder and Combined, has done in Zillertal. (c) Mathias Posch

Could you say something about the ascent and what is next?
Iโ€™ve been trying Sierra Madre on & off for some time now. I never felt great about it but now I went there in nice condition and sent it on my first try from the start. Amazing 13 moves, power-endurance testpiece, and maybe the hardest one in the area of Innsbruck. My plans for the next months are to have a good time on the rock and try something hard, before the training for the new season starts.

Helicopter v poลกaลกt (8c) by Igor "Deda" ฤŒorko (52)
Last weekend 52 years old Igor ฤŒorko aka Deda (eng. Grandpa) climbed his third 8c route. The route is "Helicopter v poลกaลกt" 8c in Pajkova strekha, which is a combination of the routes "Helicopter v omaki" 8b and "Osapska poลกaลกt" 8c. Whatโ€™s interesting is that he did his first 8c at age 45. Two years ago, he did his second, two years after he fractured the arm and both heels.

We got the news from Roko Labrovic who comments. "It is again proof that persistence, will, and renunciation work miracles in life or at least in climbing. Let this be an inspiration to the younger generations. I think he is training 4 times per week. Climbing mostly outside, at least one training is indoor. One more thing that can be interesting is that he built 2 climbing gyms here in Varaลพdin, Croatia. In which he regularly maintains and sets routes, of course with some help of club members...and he has climbed 250+ routes, grades from 8a - 8c."

Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi
William Bosi has repeated Kim Marschner's Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. "Amazing boulder that will be a future classic for sure!" (c) Sam Pratt

Yesterday, he also did James Webb'sEphyra (8C+) in Chironico. Two weeks ago, Will repeated Alphane (9A), saying his FA of Honey Badger (8C+), felt harder. When it comes to routes, the Brit has done close to 20 routes 9a to 9b+. Last year, he was #11 in the Lead World Championship but he has not done any comps this year.

Seta total 9a by Antonio Arregui (19)
Antonio Arregui, who had 8b+ as his PB two years ago, has done Seta total (9a) in .

Could you say something about your climbing background and the ascent?
I started climbing in 2017 in the Cuenca gym. In December 2018 I sent my first 8a and since then I haven't stopped climbing. Last year I sent my first 8c+ "Seta Negra" and then I tried "Seta Total" but it was too hard for me so I wanted to wait until this autumn to try hard on this route. At first, it was so hard but while I was getting stronger the temperatures were cooler so I knew I could have a chance of sending this autumn.

How come it is basically only Cuenca climbs in your log-book?
My career doesn't allow me to go out of Cuenca because I study so much, but when I have free time I like to climb new crags.

What do you study and when will it be finished?
Veterinary medicine, in three years more or less.

Rammstein 8c by Katherine Choong
Katherine Choong has done Rammstein (8c) in Soyhiรจres. The 30-year-old is a former competition climber who some 30 times has been top-30 in the World Cup. She has previously done two 9aโ€™s and several hard MPโ€™s up to 8b+. In other words, her track record is one of the most impressive out there. (c) Laurent Enard

"I first tried this route at the beginning of 2021 and I spent a lot of time there. The route presents difficult boulder sections interspersed with easier sections and ends with a dyno on a final sloper where I knew a lot of climbers had fallen. Often too hot or wet, it is complicated to find good conditions at Soyhiรจres. This past Sunday, I was really tired after a bouldering competition the day before. But the good conditions and I had no expectations, I finally pass the bottom crux and the second one (with a one-finger pocket) and reach the top without falling in the final dyno! I am particularly happy with this climb, a route that is not in my style (bouldering and dynamic)."

10 November 2022

A GriGri can slip