9 February 2021

Lorenzi suggests 9A for The Big Island assis

Simon Lorenzi from Belgium did the Big Island in October after just two sessions. After another 23 sessions, he yesterday did the FA of The Big Island assis, i.e. from starting sitting. On Insta he describes the process, saying that he personally thinks it is either a hard 8C+ or a 9A. Based on that some other guys who have tried it think it is 9A, the Belgian concludes that 9A is probably the appropriate grade (c) Gilles Charlier

How hard do you think both parts are individually?
For me, it is a hard 8B (like harder than all the 8B I did) into a hard 8B+. But it's weird because this first part is so conditioned dependant. With 12°c it felt way harder than the second part and then if it's between 0 and 5°c it feels like 8B.

How good is the hold in between? Can you chalk there or somewhere?
All the way to the top without chalking up :) So just chalk up once before climbing. The end is complicated on the slopers.

Did you make a replica or just train at the site? What was the key for eventually taking it down?
Training at the site mostly because it's tricky and if I don't try it for a week I lose the feeling. Good short résistance and optimise every detail to spend less energy.

Did you have to use any special tricks being just 168 cm tall, beside your +8 cm ape index?
1: Using stiff shoes instead of soft shoes to put more pressure into the kneebar.
2: Using a stiff kneepad with something under (I first tried with old chunks of wood).
3: Stretch my upper body to gain mobility. Like that, I improved my arm reach a bit.
4: Using a different beta for the crux of the stand start.

What is next?
Next it's the world cup season in bouldering (I hope). And after that back outdoor to try hard stuff!
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