Vojta Trojan, who already has eight 9a's to his name, has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. "The day of the send AD was all wet when we got there - I did the drying job, but it didn’t seem to work much and I was sure that it’s gonna be a miracle to even be able to try all the moves. Eventually, it got much better very quickly and I got very close with still a bit wet holds on the first try and managed to send the second go later on - at that point all the crucial holds were already dry." (c) Vojtech Ruta

How long have you been trying the route?
I tried last fall for 6-7 days. Actually, I was pretty close the fourth day or so, but then I had some bad days - opening splits or having bad conditions. So I had to wait until spring, sending it on the second day of this season.

What does it mean to send such a historic route?
Action Directe is definitely a route I always wanted to do. It’s an amazing feeling to tick off something from the life goals down. Even if it’s just another 9a - but with this one it’s a bit different.

Have you climbed in other parts of the Franken?
We actually go to Frankenjura pretty often as I live 3-hour drive away. And I also tried and send my first 9a here (Der Heilige Gral) so I’m kinda bounded to this place. And I’m incredibly happy to send the most iconic line of Frankenjura even more.

Tanguy Merard has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted it in 1989 and then in 1996 Arnaud Petit made it to the first 8c+ anchor. Five years later, Chris Sharma made the FA of the full 35+ meter line and later on, the first anchor was removed. (c) TLC Prod

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After 3 years of trying it, coming back with the same motivation every season was so hard. I had ups and a lot of downs but I never gave up, every try I thought that was the good one and this during 4 summers. I tried this route for 50 or 60 days maybe, I don't know, too much to count. And then, with a lot of rage and intention, the biggest project in my life crystallised😋. I wasn't in the best shape on my first try, I struggled in the first part but on my second try I was a little bit better, I gave a big fight 🔥 and it happened!

This year in training I managed to give a lot of energy and intention, I worked on that in connection with breathing. I ventilated a lot to excite myself, I worked a lot on that and that's what got me to the chains that day. Biographie was like a mirror to me; she helped me to know myself better and understand how my mind and body work and made me grow. Thanks to all the people who supported me in this project, my friends, my coach, my sponsors, my family.

What are the next and 2023 plans?
The next project is coming 🔥: I tried Ratstaman Vibrations (9b) just after sending Biographie and I like it so much, I will try this route this summer, it is my main goal.

Fanatic Climbing has made an interview with the 19-year-old where he comments on his ascent. "What made the difference was having succeeded in getting me excited and having the rage to win at the top crux. I put that in place in my training this year, and with breathing, I managed to activate myself to be ready to give everything. I managed to reproduce exactly what I was able to do in the gym in terms of intention and excitement."

Maho Normand, who previously has done six 8c+'s, out of which, two at age 14, has sent Sachidananda (9a+) in Orgon. "First 9! Best line in the sector with a great effort! Harder than the 9a try! Hard for 9a and for me not 9a+ reference. Even if I do not like slash grades, I think the correct rating is 9a/+! The next ones will see if I said right. I can finally go somewhere else with peace of mind. What an incredible process!"

Already one year ago, he told 8a that he was working Sachidanada after having had almost a year off due to injuries and a lack of motivation.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Sachidananda was a project that I had in mind since my friend Victor Guillermin sent it. For the sequence, I spent say a big fifteen sessions to try, spread over one year! A few sessions last year were really bad, I couldn’t even do the movements of the crux and I couldn’t stack the sections because it was so intense for me. This year after a big recovery and regular training, I move well in the movements and in the 3rd session of the year I finally succeeded with a method of mine to pass the famous crux in the middle of the route!

After that, continuing to the chain...a whole other matter. After adapting to the route, we had to put in runs. Several sessions later I finally manage to chain. It was a big mental fight, full of emotion, I loved the process.

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Mateusz Haladaj, who since 2009 has done 17 routes 9a or 9a+, has sent Fabelita r2 (9a) in Santa Linya. "Monster of a route, 100 moves, definitely solid for the grade."

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
As in the past few seasons, I've been mainly focusing on my main project in Margalef First Round First Minute (9b) but this spring it got extremely dry and I was unable to perform at the south facing Laboratori sector. The plan B was to finish off the Fabelita extension, from which I fell at the anchor last year. The main plan was to build the long-time endurance required for the 100+ move route, considering my usual training for First Round is rather strength-oriented. Happy to be able to switch styles and perform something that is not my style...

1. Mejdi Schalck FRA 2 000 - Brooke Raboutou USA 1 690
2. Jongwon Chon KOR 1 185 - Miho Nonaka JPN 1 325
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1 155 - Anon Matsufuji JPN 1 300
4. Hannes Van Duysen BEL 1 085 - Hannah Meul GER 1 240
5. Dohyun Lee KOR 1 065 - Ayala Herem ISR 1 105

1. Mejdi Schalck FRA 23 (2) - Miho Nonaka JPN 23
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 23 (6) - Oriane Bertone FRA 22 (4)
3. Jongwon Chon KOR 22 - Brooke Raboutou USA 22 (10)
Complete male results and female results.(c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

Mejdi Schalck (18) won his second consecutive Boulder World Cup by onsighting two boulders and getting one extra zone. (8a interview published last Friday.) Tomoa Narasaki was runner-up needing six attempts for topping two boulders and Jongwon Chon was third, also topping two boulders. Due to rain on the first day, the semifinal was the final round and actually half of the 20 participants did not make any tops.

The women also faced a tough round with few tops and in the end, Olympic silver medalist, Miho Nonaka won by topping two boulders and getting one zone extra. Oriane Bertone got the silver with two tops in four attempts meanwhile Brooke Raboutou was awarded the bronze, needing ten attempts for her two tops. Similar to the men, eleven out of the 20 participants did not get any tops.

Nonaka Miho: “I’m so happy. I’m delighted to win this gold medal. I don’t know what to say. I’ve competed for so long and it’s been five years since I won at a Boulder World Cup. It feels crazy. I’m happy.”

Mejdi Schalck: “I think I don’t really realise what is happening. It’s just crazy. I just wanted to come here and do my best, climb and have fun. It’s crazy, I don’t think I realise actually what is happening.”

The men’s qualification round in the Seoul Boulder World Cup was postponed due to heavy rain. Among the women, Ayala Kerem from Israel, who was fourth in Hachioji, was the only one topping all five boulders. The other qualification group was won by Lucia Dörfel from Germany, #17 last weekend. All the big names made it to the semifinals that will give the final rankings due to a scheduel change. The male will do both the qualification and the semifinal (final) tomorrow. Complete results.

Amandine Loury has done En voie dure Simone (8c) in . The 33-year-old has since 2014 done ten routes 8c and harder. (c) Jean-Luc Jeunet

What is your climbing background?
I always have been passionate about the rock, even when I was competing. In 2012 I decided to stop competition and to spend all my free time on the rock. I’m sport teacher close to Saint léger du ventoux and Buoux. I practice rock climbing 3-4 times per week and this is the main training I really do. I’m very lucky to live in this amazing area, surrounded by world-class crag.

Can you tell us more about the 8c ascent?
It has been bolted by Graou and Nico Favresse did the FA. The route starts by 10 powerful moves. Then we get to the dyno which is the crux of the route. After 10 extra moves, you get to kneebar rest. Then you start a twenty meters 8b+ with a punch crux. All of that makes it an amazing 35 meters pitch on crazy rock in a crazy crag.

The sending day was too cold for me at first. But luckily 5 minutes of sun appear and I went for it. It took me 5/6 sessions on the route. Thanks to the friends who support me during the send.

What’s the next plan?
I’m currently in where I’m glad to do a lot of onsight and flash climbing with my beta machine Jean Luc Jeunet. (Yesterday, she flashed Olympos Games (8b))