Mejdi Schalck's (18) World Cup winning recipe

Mejdi Schalck, who did his first 9a at age 16, won his second Boulder World Cup last weekend in Hachioji after also becoming the French Champion last month. The 18-year-old was kind enough to answer a few questions the day before the Seuol World Cup. "I’m managing everything including media contacts by my self and sometimes it’s not easy but that’s a good thing for growing I think." (c) IFSC/Dimitri Tosidis

What are the boulders you like the most and excel at?
Coordination for sure because I really like feeling this "coordination flow" between the holds. For sure I like all dynamic stuff but I also really like boulders with pinches and I start to be stronger with time.

How did you train last winter?
I trained way more than in past years. Due to the new combined format, I needed to have more volume and be generally stronger. I did also a lot of lead at the beginning of the year for trying to level up and prepare for the second part of the season. But yes, during some periods I did more strength and other resistance efforts. I think I really progresses because I was really consistent in my motivation every day and serious in my training.

In a normal week I rest on Thursday and Sunday. I have;
- 2 general physical preparation sessions
- 2 specific physical preparation sessions.
- 3 bouldering sessions, one on a spray wall, one on hard boulders after work and one focused on quality.
- 2 lead - 1 cardio - 2 stretching - 1 slab training

In some training weeks, I only do 10 Lead sessions. In total, I train 20-25 hours a week. The most important is to always keep the passion and the fire you have in you.

Do you have a training partner for all your sessions?
My coach Victor Larzul is always with me on my sessions, and yes I train with Paul Jenft [who was #3 last weekend] since 6 years and we train around 3/4 a week together.



What are your goals for 2023?
My biggest goals for 2023 are the world champs in Bern and to try to qualify for the Olympics games, but the World Cups are also very important and I want to perform well in every World Cup I will do.

How much have you been able to climb outdoors this winter?
I went to Ticino for 10 days in November [where he sent Off the Wagon (8B+)] but I didn’t really take another moment for going outside. This year it will be quite hard to go out, I will try to take one or two weeks maybe after the World Champs. But after the Olympics I want to take a long period to go out, 3/4 months and try some cool projects! :)

Do you go to school and what are your other interests?
I stopped school until the Olympics because I wanted to focus 100% on it. I like video games etc ahah :) but not other huge interests.