Action Directe (9a) by Vojta Trojan

Vojta Trojan, who already has eight 9a's to his name, has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. "The day of the send AD was all wet when we got there - I did the drying job, but it didn’t seem to work much and I was sure that it’s gonna be a miracle to even be able to try all the moves. Eventually, it got much better very quickly and I got very close with still a bit wet holds on the first try and managed to send the second go later on - at that point all the crucial holds were already dry." (c) Vojtech Ruta

How long have you been trying the route?
I tried last fall for 6-7 days. Actually, I was pretty close the fourth day or so, but then I had some bad days - opening splits or having bad conditions. So I had to wait until spring, sending it on the second day of this season.

What does it mean to send such a historic route?
Action Directe is definitely a route I always wanted to do. It’s an amazing feeling to tick off something from the life goals down. Even if it’s just another 9a - but with this one it’s a bit different.

Have you climbed in other parts of the Franken?
We actually go to Frankenjura pretty often as I live 3-hour drive away. And I also tried and send my first 9a here (Der Heilige Gral) so I’m kinda bounded to this place. And I’m incredibly happy to send the most iconic line of Frankenjura even more.