29 April 2023

Amandine Loury sends En voie dure Simone (8c) and flashes an 8b

Amandine Loury has done En voie dure Simone (8c) in St Léger. The 33-year-old has since 2014 done ten routes 8c and harder. (c) Jean-Luc Jeunet

What is your climbing background?
I always have been passionate about the rock, even when I was competing. In 2012 I decided to stop competition and to spend all my free time on the rock. I’m sport teacher close to Saint léger du ventoux and Buoux. I practice rock climbing 3-4 times per week and this is the main training I really do. I’m very lucky to live in this amazing area, surrounded by world-class crag.

Can you tell us more about the 8c ascent?
It has been bolted by Graou and Nico Favresse did the FA. The route starts by 10 powerful moves. Then we get to the dyno which is the crux of the route. After 10 extra moves, you get to kneebar rest. Then you start a twenty meters 8b+ with a punch crux. All of that makes it an amazing 35 meters pitch on crazy rock in a crazy crag.

The sending day was too cold for me at first. But luckily 5 minutes of sun appear and I went for it. It took me 5/6 sessions on the route. Thanks to the friends who support me during the send.

What’s the next plan?
I’m currently in Geyikbayırı where I’m glad to do a lot of onsight and flash climbing with my beta machine Jean Luc Jeunet. (Yesterday, she flashed Olympos Games (8b))
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