Janja Garnbret topped out the final with ease, just like the quali and the semi. The route setters created a spectacular rotation move where Janja stood facing the spectators. Janja has now won 40 World Cups out of which 25 have been Lead events. Jessica Pilz took silver and Brooke Raboutou bronze, and both timed out climbers timed out before falling. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Garnbret told the IFSC, “It feels incredible. I’ve always loved Villars. I’ve always loved coming here and I feel a bit like it’s my competition and it’s home here. After Innsbruck I felt confident and I can see my Lead [comp] shape is there. I have been climbing with confidence and that’s how I have climbed in the finals here.”

The youngsters are coming up strong and fast, but this go around, it was the three of the most senior competitors on the Villars' podium. Jakob Schubert, 32, won his 20th Lead World Cup. The Austrian has now won 25 WC’s which makes him the men’s record holder. Adam Ondra, 30, was runner up followed by Alex Megos, 29. The average age of the other five finalists was 19. Complete results (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Schubert told the IFSC, “It feels so amazing, it’s been a while especially in the World Cup. I spoke to Adam [Ondra] and Alex [Megos] in Innsbruck, the field is so strong now it’s an achievement just to make finals. Going against these old guys, and the youngsters, it was amazing to come out on top today. It also feels amazing to be on the podium with two great friends. We were discussing if this is the oldest podium. The old guys dominated today.”

Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret won the qualification in Villars. Among the men, Japan had six among the Top-10 and the biggest sensation was that Alberto Gines Lopez was #54. Garnbret topped both routes and the only favourite missing out the Top-26 semi was Miho Nonaka #37.

Ryuichi Murai started his trip to Rocklands by doing Book Club (8B+) and Ménage à trois (8B+) followed by Monkey Wedding (8C). On Insta He says of the Fred Nicole classic, "Climbing for 6 days without rest days because African life is too fun. Yesterday, I managed to send one of the main goals of this tour. Seven years ago I couldn't do the full reach crux at all, but this time it felt easy." (c) Nari Tomo

The 29-year-old was #5 in a World Cup in 2018 and stopped his competition career one year later. Since then he has done five 8C+, out of which three FAs.

Martina Demmel, #43 in the Villars World Cup yesterday, has last week sent One Piece (8c) in Frankenjura. "Totally enjoyed the crux sequence on this one which demanded a lot of tension & precision! 2 more tries after "Akira"! Felt like a very first of its grade;) now after my recent injury."

How did you break your wrist and how long time ago did you remove the cast?
2,5 months ago now😉. I was falling pretty high up and there was a lot of rope-drag why I hit the wall pretty hard (probably I was belayed a bit too hard as well) and it took 20 days to find out that it's broken and in total 4 months without using this hand at all, so I'm pretty surprised and relieved how well I can move on the wall already again😁💃📈

What are your summer plans?
I'm already nominated for the next 2 WC's in Chamonix and Briançon and then I hope to be able to go World Champs in early August but this depends on how the comps are going now... after that I'm planning to go to Switzerland and France (probably La Ramirole and a few other crags I wanted to check out for years already😁) for a few weeks of rock before the next comps and before police school starts again🌞🏔💃

Vojta Trojan sent his dream route Action Directe (9a) in May, which he commented on 8a. "Action Directe is definitely a route I always wanted to do. It’s an amazing feeling to tick off something from the life goals down. Even if it’s just another 9a - but with this one it’s a bit different." Now his video is released with more beta details.

Nina Caprez, who became a mother less than one year ago, is known for being one of the best female multi-discipline climbers in the world. The 36-year-old has twice been Top-8 in the Boulder World Cup but she is most famous for all her hard multi-pitch ascents. Last week she did the 300-meter Yeah Man (8b+) in Gastlosen and her partner was her au pair Pauline Maheo. (c) Jeremy Bernard

"To be honest, it took me a bit of courage to go to the Gastlosen. I had done my first multipitch for a year in May with Lynn Hill, and I had a lot of troubles. So I asked myself if it was a good idea to take on this project. But in the end, my partner Jérémy pushed me a bit and I must say that it went extremely well. As soon as we arrived in Jaun I felt that I was in the right place. I loved taking the “lead” for this project, accompanied by my au pair Pauline, and supported by Lia and Jérémy on the ground in the van." Full interview in Fanatic Climbing

Tyler Thompson, who did his first 9a+ in February, did Joe Kinder’s Life of Villains (9a) in Hurricave, two weeks ago. Here is the 8a news article. In the video, we can see him doing a crazy knee drop [6.03 min].

Thomas Salakenos has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. This was the first 8C for the 29-year-old who the last two weeks has been in Magic Wood where he did three 8B's and his second 8B+. (c) Samuel Weir

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
On my way home [from Magic Wood] I made a quick stop at Fionnay. So Friday evening, after 6 hours of driving, I had my 1st Sess in Fundation’s Edge, a boulder I had my eyes on for a long 👀 I knew the boulder from videos and with few adjustments, I needed 50 minutes of an intense session to unlock everything. The wall is steep and moves are powerful, so I was done for that day, already empty. I filmed the whole Sess, so I could visualise everything again.

On Saturday, I took a long time to warm-up, touching holds, a few pull-ups and mobilisation on the pads. I did a few moves, not the hardest ones, and immediately felt that I could do it that day. The pressure was on. I knew it would come down to small details, about not wasting energy, keeping my head cool, and also a touch of luck. After a really close call on my 2nd go, it all came together on my 6th go from the ground. The final part of the boulder is high but easy on jugs so I enjoyed every moment of it. All in all, 2 sessions (each around ~ 1 hour) in <24h were enough to climb my hardest boulder yet 😳 Crazy! I was amazed by Fionnay and really look forward to going back.

How can you explain being in peak performance?
I trained more, with higher intensity. For 1.5 months I’ve had a way better life health. But the biggest change is my way to face the problems. I think way more about what matters, the small details, and strategic choices at the boulder. I film every try and try to analyse the betas and movements. More focus etc… Also, I did a big specific preparation, heavy pull-ups, finger lifting etc. A lot of board training lately, Moon, Kilter and a very hard taped project on the spray wall. I’m way more organised than before on my trip, trying to do few lower grades which I really want to do to keep psyched between sessions in harder projects, otherwise, you just fail! Also, I feel in really good shape but not way more than usual, I would just say that this trip has been very successful, so more confidence and a positive circle, confidence boost etc.