12 August 2023

Schubert, Duffy and Narasaki are going to Paris

Jakob Schubert won the Boulder & Lead gold in Bern in a relatively comfortable style. He was second in Boulder, just one attempt and 0.1 points behind Tomoa Narasaki, who got the overall bronze. Then in Lead, the Austrian won getting 8 points more than Colin Duffy, who was second overall after being fourth in Boulder. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Sorato Anraku was fourth just seven points behind his teammate. If he had topped the route he would have won the overall, so the suspense was nail biting.

Quotes from IFSC
Jakob Schubert (AUT) โ€“ menโ€™s Boulder & Lead gold medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โ€œI donโ€™t know. Itโ€™s so crazy. It kind of feels like the Lead, it all went so fast. Today was a big day, obviously I knew I had to do really well in Boulder to have a chance for that Olympic ticket and the Boulder round couldnโ€™t have gone any better for me I think. My dream was to go into the Lead with a lead and then keep my nerves under control, and I think I did a really good job of doing that in the Lead route.

I donโ€™t think I actually realise what it means yet. Feels like there hasnโ€™t been much time to think about it. I was watching the action and really hoping Sorato [Anraku] could show what he could do because he is such a good climber. I feel like he is the best combined climber right now, I had my day today, but we are definitely going to see him at the Olympics. For an older climber like me, now I can just focus and prepare for the Olympics, calm down a bit and now not do all the comps next year because Iโ€™m getting tired doing a lot of comps. So this has worked out perfectly.โ€


Colin Duffy (USA) โ€“ menโ€™s Boulder & Lead silver medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โ€œIt felt amazing. I was just honoured to be on the stage in the World Championships Boulder & Lead final. This is the most difficult and proud final I have ever made. I just wanted to go into today, enjoy my climbing and not care about the result. I was able to enjoy every second on the wall in the Boulder and stayed calm in the Lead route and Iโ€™m very happy to be standing here with another Olympic spot.โ€

Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) โ€“ menโ€™s Boulder & Lead bronze medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โ€œAt first, I felt pressure, but Iโ€™ve been training, training, training and I believed in myself. My wife Akiyo [Noguchi] is here, I think she felt more pressure than me but Iโ€™m so happy to get the Olympic ticket in front of her.โ€

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 99.6 + 84 = 183.6
2. Colin Duffy USA 84.7 + 76 = 160.7
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 99.7 + 57 = 156.7
4. Sorato Anraku JPN 85 + 64.1 = 149.1
5. Toby Roberts GBR 79.3 + 64.1 = 143.4
6. Adam Ondra CZE 84.1 + 57.1 = 141.2
7. Dohyun Lee KOR 70 + 57.1 = 127.1
8. Paul Jenft FRA 69.8 + 33 = 102.8
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