
12 August 2023
Schubert, Duffy and Narasaki are going to Paris
Jakob Schubert won the Boulder & Lead gold in Bern in a relatively comfortable style. He was second in Boulder, just one attempt and 0.1 points behind Tomoa Narasaki, who got the overall bronze. Then in Lead, the Austrian won getting 8 points more than Colin Duffy, who was second overall after being fourth in Boulder. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC
Sorato Anraku was fourth just seven points behind his teammate. If he had topped the route he would have won the overall, so the suspense was nail biting.
Quotes from IFSC
Jakob Schubert (AUT) โ menโs Boulder & Lead gold medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI donโt know. Itโs so crazy. It kind of feels like the Lead, it all went so fast. Today was a big day, obviously I knew I had to do really well in Boulder to have a chance for that Olympic ticket and the Boulder round couldnโt have gone any better for me I think. My dream was to go into the Lead with a lead and then keep my nerves under control, and I think I did a really good job of doing that in the Lead route.
I donโt think I actually realise what it means yet. Feels like there hasnโt been much time to think about it. I was watching the action and really hoping Sorato [Anraku] could show what he could do because he is such a good climber. I feel like he is the best combined climber right now, I had my day today, but we are definitely going to see him at the Olympics. For an older climber like me, now I can just focus and prepare for the Olympics, calm down a bit and now not do all the comps next year because Iโm getting tired doing a lot of comps. So this has worked out perfectly.โ
Colin Duffy (USA) โ menโs Boulder & Lead silver medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โIt felt amazing. I was just honoured to be on the stage in the World Championships Boulder & Lead final. This is the most difficult and proud final I have ever made. I just wanted to go into today, enjoy my climbing and not care about the result. I was able to enjoy every second on the wall in the Boulder and stayed calm in the Lead route and Iโm very happy to be standing here with another Olympic spot.โ
Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) โ menโs Boulder & Lead bronze medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โAt first, I felt pressure, but Iโve been training, training, training and I believed in myself. My wife Akiyo [Noguchi] is here, I think she felt more pressure than me but Iโm so happy to get the Olympic ticket in front of her.โ
1. Jakob Schubert AUT 99.6 + 84 = 183.6
2. Colin Duffy USA 84.7 + 76 = 160.7
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 99.7 + 57 = 156.7
4. Sorato Anraku JPN 85 + 64.1 = 149.1
5. Toby Roberts GBR 79.3 + 64.1 = 143.4
6. Adam Ondra CZE 84.1 + 57.1 = 141.2
7. Dohyun Lee KOR 70 + 57.1 = 127.1
8. Paul Jenft FRA 69.8 + 33 = 102.8
Sorato Anraku was fourth just seven points behind his teammate. If he had topped the route he would have won the overall, so the suspense was nail biting.
Quotes from IFSC
Jakob Schubert (AUT) โ menโs Boulder & Lead gold medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI donโt know. Itโs so crazy. It kind of feels like the Lead, it all went so fast. Today was a big day, obviously I knew I had to do really well in Boulder to have a chance for that Olympic ticket and the Boulder round couldnโt have gone any better for me I think. My dream was to go into the Lead with a lead and then keep my nerves under control, and I think I did a really good job of doing that in the Lead route.
I donโt think I actually realise what it means yet. Feels like there hasnโt been much time to think about it. I was watching the action and really hoping Sorato [Anraku] could show what he could do because he is such a good climber. I feel like he is the best combined climber right now, I had my day today, but we are definitely going to see him at the Olympics. For an older climber like me, now I can just focus and prepare for the Olympics, calm down a bit and now not do all the comps next year because Iโm getting tired doing a lot of comps. So this has worked out perfectly.โ
Colin Duffy (USA) โ menโs Boulder & Lead silver medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โIt felt amazing. I was just honoured to be on the stage in the World Championships Boulder & Lead final. This is the most difficult and proud final I have ever made. I just wanted to go into today, enjoy my climbing and not care about the result. I was able to enjoy every second on the wall in the Boulder and stayed calm in the Lead route and Iโm very happy to be standing here with another Olympic spot.โ
Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) โ menโs Boulder & Lead bronze medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โAt first, I felt pressure, but Iโve been training, training, training and I believed in myself. My wife Akiyo [Noguchi] is here, I think she felt more pressure than me but Iโm so happy to get the Olympic ticket in front of her.โ
1. Jakob Schubert AUT 99.6 + 84 = 183.6
2. Colin Duffy USA 84.7 + 76 = 160.7
3. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 99.7 + 57 = 156.7
4. Sorato Anraku JPN 85 + 64.1 = 149.1
5. Toby Roberts GBR 79.3 + 64.1 = 143.4
6. Adam Ondra CZE 84.1 + 57.1 = 141.2
7. Dohyun Lee KOR 70 + 57.1 = 127.1
8. Paul Jenft FRA 69.8 + 33 = 102.8
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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