9 August 2023

Garnbret and Anraku win and Roberts puts on an electric show

Another round of great route setting, especially of the men's route, created semifinal drama and excitement. Sorato Anraku, Jakob Schubert and Toby Roberts topped the route getting 100 points making them advance to the final. Roberts seemed to fight hard in the lower section where his arm got strangled in the rope but the higher he got, the more relaxed he was, and he was actually twice waving to the spectators with a confident smile to get some more cheering. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

"That felt absolutely incredible. Having had some results that havenโ€™t been going the best the competition tonight is so nice to be in front of this huge crowd and give a really good fight on a nice route. From the Lead final to tonight itโ€™s really nice to be able to get a result I know I am capable of. Being in that moment, the crowd was just electric, it was incredible. I was so in the moment. I felt really good up there so I turned around and gave them a little hype up, I was properly in the moment and Iโ€™m really happy."

The other five men making it to the final were; Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasaki, Adam Ondra, Dohyun Lee and Paul Jenft. Complete results

Among the women, Ai Mori once again beat Janja Garnbret getting 92, respectively, 76.1 points. Garnbret won overall and as a matter of fact, she would have been #5 even if she had scored 0 in Lead. Jain Kim was #3 on the Lead route with a 72 points score moving her to #8 overall after having been #19 in Boulder. Oriane Bertone was third overall with another impressive performance in Bern. Fourth on the Lead route was Brooke Raboutou and that was also her overall ranking.
The remaining three women finalists are Miho Nonaka, Jessica Pilz and Anastasia Sanders. Complete results

One twist is that Japan got 2 + 2 into the finals and if all of them make it to the podium, they have filled the max 2 per gender country quota. The same goes for the USA and their females. It should be mentioned again that Shauna Coxsey does an excellent job as a commentator with all her added insight and details.
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