
11 August 2023
Garnbret, Pilz and Mori earn tickets to Paris
It was an outstanding show once more in Bern with Janja Garnbret (SLO) winning the Boulder & Lead World Championships and securing a ticket to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. The runner-up was Jessica Pilz (AUT) followed by Ai Mori (JPN), who both were awarded Olympic tickets. Brooke Raboutou got the unlucky fourth position, only 3 points from the podium and the bye to Paris, meaning that if she had made one more move or if Mori had fallen one move earlier, their results had been the opposite. Complete routes
The route setting was excellent in both the Boulder as well as in the Lead round and the point scoring system worked perfectly, creating an amazing show together with an enthusiastic crowd. Overall, this was a great success for competition climbing and the IFSC. (c) Jan Virt/IFSC
1. Janja Garnbret SLO 84.9 + 92.1 = 177.0
2. Jessica Pilz AUT 69 + 88.1 = 157.1
3. Ai Mori JPN 44.5 + 96.1 = 140.6
4. Brooke Raboutou 69.8 + 69 = 137.8
5. Jain Kim KOR 14.1 + 92.1 = 106.2
6. Oriane Bertone FRA 54.7 + 39.1 = 93.8
7. Miho Nonaka JPN 54.4 + 39.1 = 93.5
8. Anastasia Sanders USA 24.6 + 45.1 = 69.7
IFSC quotes
Janja Garnbret (SLO) โ womenโs Boulder & Lead gold medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI feel incredible and relieved at the same time. It feels so amazing today. I felt so composed today actually, I was climbing the Lead route flawlessly and I am just incredibly happy right now that I have qualified, even though I have qualified once before, you donโt get tired of this feeling of qualifying for an Olympics. So, my second Olympics โ here we go.โ
Jessica Pilz (AUT) โ womenโs Boulder & Lead silver medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI knew my Boulder round was kind of good but it was all still open until the end. I knew I had to give my all for the Lead route and do my best. I wasnโt sure when I fell if it would be enough, but then my coaches signalled to me that it was, but I couldnโt really believe it and I really wanted to wait until the end until it was safe. It still feels surreal.โ
Mori Ai (JPN) โ womenโs Boulder & Lead bronze medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI was nervous but when I climb I get excited. I wanted to reach the top, but getting the Olympic ticket makes me very happy.โ
The route setting was excellent in both the Boulder as well as in the Lead round and the point scoring system worked perfectly, creating an amazing show together with an enthusiastic crowd. Overall, this was a great success for competition climbing and the IFSC. (c) Jan Virt/IFSC
1. Janja Garnbret SLO 84.9 + 92.1 = 177.0
2. Jessica Pilz AUT 69 + 88.1 = 157.1
3. Ai Mori JPN 44.5 + 96.1 = 140.6
4. Brooke Raboutou 69.8 + 69 = 137.8
5. Jain Kim KOR 14.1 + 92.1 = 106.2
6. Oriane Bertone FRA 54.7 + 39.1 = 93.8
7. Miho Nonaka JPN 54.4 + 39.1 = 93.5
8. Anastasia Sanders USA 24.6 + 45.1 = 69.7
IFSC quotes
Janja Garnbret (SLO) โ womenโs Boulder & Lead gold medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI feel incredible and relieved at the same time. It feels so amazing today. I felt so composed today actually, I was climbing the Lead route flawlessly and I am just incredibly happy right now that I have qualified, even though I have qualified once before, you donโt get tired of this feeling of qualifying for an Olympics. So, my second Olympics โ here we go.โ
Jessica Pilz (AUT) โ womenโs Boulder & Lead silver medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI knew my Boulder round was kind of good but it was all still open until the end. I knew I had to give my all for the Lead route and do my best. I wasnโt sure when I fell if it would be enough, but then my coaches signalled to me that it was, but I couldnโt really believe it and I really wanted to wait until the end until it was safe. It still feels surreal.โ
Mori Ai (JPN) โ womenโs Boulder & Lead bronze medallist - PARIS 2024 QUALIFIED
โI was nervous but when I climb I get excited. I wanted to reach the top, but getting the Olympic ticket makes me very happy.โ
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Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ



