Michaela Kiersch has repeated Fred Nicole’s classical Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. The Doctor in Hand Therapy has now completed 17 boulders graded 8B or harder, along with 17 routes rated 8c+ and beyond. Remarkably, nearly all of the 29-year-old’s toughest ascents have come in just the past 2.5 years. She is also the first female to have climbed both a 9a+ route and an 8C boulder. (c) Marco Zanone

Can you tell us about the ascent and the process behind?
I first tried Dreamtime in 2022 the week after sending La Rambla. The stand start felt impossible and I couldn't really do any of the moves. Elevating my climbing to this level since then has been an incredible and gratifying process.

Since I got home from Rocklands my focus was to strengthen my left hand after the finger fracture and get into my best bouldering form yet. I didn't train specifically for Dreamtime, but I was very diligent in increasing my finger strength and power. I say this every time, but now I really think I am in the best shape of my life (for boulders).

It took 7 sessions this trip, with the first 2 sessions only able to work a few moves due to the rain and seepage. It is truly a dream come true and potentially one of the most aptly named boulders in the world (next to Dreamcatcher, of course!).

What is your finger strength training recipe?
I utilize a combination of functional finger strength training by climbing on small holds and doing static hangs. Honestly I don't have a secret recipe, it's just consistency and dedication.

Jacopo Larcher, one of the world’s leading multi-discipline climbers, has achieved the sixth ascent of Magic Line in Yosemite. The 35-year-old Italian climber has previously completed over a dozen traditional routes graded 8b+ or harder, establishing himself as one of the most accomplished trad climbers globally. (c) Barbara Zangerl

”Besides the famous photograph of Ron Kauk’s FA back in the day, I first got a glimpse of it when Hazel Findlay climbed it and I took some photos of her. I was amazed and intimidated at the same time by the line, but unfortunately over the years I never took the chance or the time to go and try it myself. The opportunity eventually arrived, when last year Babsi came back home very enthusiastic after having tried it and was motivated for closing the circle this year. It wasn’t difficult to talk me into joining! I must admit, that at first I underestimated the complexity of the route and during my first days trying it, I felt completely lost. It’s not the kind of the route that you can just power through if you’re strong enough. Everyone has to find his or her own beta to solve the intricate sequences and climb flawlessly in order to stay on those almost non-existent footholds.

It seems like everyone climbs the crux differently. You need to find the perfect balance between pushing, pulling, being confident enough, but not too much. You can feel great on it and fall at any moment, and the other way around. It’s definitely a hard one for the mind. You really have to focus only on the moment, without overthinking. When I finally figured out the crux and began to feel better on it, I naively thought I would stand a high chance of climbing the route,if I were to get through the crux on lead. I quickly realized I was wrong.

Placing the tiny gear definitely adds some extra complexity and, even when I started to pass the crux on almost every lead try, I kept on falling off somewhere else, twice from the very last move. The last days have been a rollercoaster. I have to admit that I felt unfounded pressure, both from my self and the outside, and I coped badly with it, not being my best self. It took some effort to shake off this pressure, but once more, the key to success was to simply enjoying the process and feeling lucky to share it with good people and be able to climb on such a gem!

Now, I’m almost sad that it’s over. This line and the process to climb it have taught me a lot and it means a lot to me. Big thanks to Babsi, Brent, Connor and Matthias for the good time and the support!… and thanks to Magic Line for the (life) experience.”

Molly Thompson-Smith, who was #19 in the Paris Olympics, has flashed Catatonica (8A) in Brione and Teamwork (8A) in Chironico.

Can you tell us more about the flashes?
I arrived in Ticino yesterday from the U.K. on my birthday [27] and went straight to the boulders in Brione! I had an early start and long travel day so decided to take it easy and maybe just look at potential hard projects (like Versace (8B)). My boyfriend Sam [Prat] saw this little boulder just beneath it and when we saw it was 8A [Catatonica] and my style (crimpy), he suggested I give it a good flash go.

Sam remembered seeing a video of Marine on it, which is how we figured out what the bloc is. I watched that but ended up using different beta that I came up with during my attempt! After a bit of prep, and some hard crimping I was stood on the top - it was a great way to spend my birthday!

Teamwork was at the end of a long day watching friends climb. It was close to the road and Sam also thought I had a good chance at flashing it or climbing it quickly, so I decided to have a go before we headed home. The boulder looked really nice and really my style, so I was psyched to give it a good flash go. Luckily I was right and it felt pretty steady :)

What is next?
I’m just here on holiday after an intense year with the Olympics, and then spending a lot of time on a project at home, so I’m excited to support my partner Sam on his projects, and maybe climb some more 8As😊

Andrea Chelleris has done Mangarbo Natural (9a+) in Villanueva del Rosario, without using the drilled pockets. ”Did it natural like Adam so without taking the artificial pockets from Mandanga total that were created after Adam sent la planta de shiva. The locals told me that without the pockets is for sure 9a+… and also compared to all the others 9a I did I think it deserves that grade.”

Adam Ondra did the FA of La Planta de Shiva (9b) in 2011. Later Mandanga total (9a) were bolted including the creation of four new pockets, like 50 cm to the left of the tufa which Ondra used. Mangarbo total is a variation of Mandango total that finishes in La planta de shiva.

In the picture, you can see one of the artificially made pockets just above Andreas head.

Niki Rusev, who did his first 9a at age 14, has made the FA of Burzum (9a) in Lakatnik. (c) Alex Totkova

”Pushed harder than I thought possible, and the sense of finally sending this route at the top was unreal. The route was freshly bolted by Faza, I think in early 2024. A massive 180° roof, 20 meters wide and there is only one line where it’s actually possible for climbing but still very hard. I decided to climb this one as a side project because for the main one better conditions are needed.

Regarding the grade, I’ve been thinking a lot and making the right choice is always hard, mostly because I don’t want to lie to myself 🤔. At first I definitely thought it’s a 9 but later some beta came up, I also adjusted more to the holds and the kneebars and it seemed to be easier but then an important step broke and made the whole section almost impossible. Luckily I found new beta that’s something in the middle in terms of difficulty. After sending it in good shape, also perfect conditions and skin I still felt it quite hard for 8c+😆. Anyway it would be great to hear second opinion. If I had to grade every single crux it would be hard: 8B boulder medium rest 7B+/7C boulder good rest 7c route.”

What is next and what about comps in 2025?
I already checked my three years project and the weather seems to be okay, last year I was quite close to do it and now I did all the moves and also good links again. The body memory is there for sure.

I can’t wait to start training for 2025 competition circuit, this time I can put a lot of work in the new Balkan climbing gym, where it gives more possibilities to train harder.

Karoline Sinnhuber has had a great day in in Zillertal sending Slapshot (8A) and Camorra (8A+) . (c) Luki Mayerhofer

Can you tell us more about Camorra and Gangster mentioned on Instagram?
The big startjug broke several years ago so this boulder was unclimbable. Luckily this year the hold got glued on again and made climbing this kingline possible 😍 It‘s pretty much everything about the nasty left heel, finding the bodyposition and grabbing the weird incut crimp-pinch.

‚American Gangster‘ is the right exit, which is 8B+. Not sure if it suits my style, but it‘s definitely worth a try next time to check it out 😉

Domen Škofic, the overall Lead World Cup winner in 2016, has done Chilam Balam (9b) in Villanueva del Rosario after some 20 sessions during two trips. The 30-year-old has previously sent 25 routes 9a and beyond. (c) David Munilla

"This thing was on top of my wish list since I heard about it. This year I finally got the opportunity to meet face to face with this 80+ meter beast. I like to believe that I was made for this route, I enjoyed every single move one it but the journey to success was far from easy. It’s probably my hardest route to date but my opinion is that this route doesn’t even need a grade because it’s so legendary. I believe that every climber who did and will conquer this monster in the future will feel something incredible. The last slab is a killer but that’s why the whole journey is so special, nothing is granted until the very end. I admit I was very proud on myself when I clipped the chain and looked back from where I came from. Epic!"

Prudence Morgan-Wood, with three 8b+’ under her belt, has done Espacio tiempo (8c) in Sella. The 30-year-old has been on a roadrip in Spain since April and her long time goal is to send a 9a. (c) David Zarco Vila

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Espacio Tiempo was recommended to me by a friend so when we arrived in Sella (on the 25th of October) I decided to jump on the route and check out the moves. A local climber already had his draws in it and we were able to share beta. I immediately knew that the route suited me. Its steep thin tufas and crimps are perfect for smaller hands. There are no really long moves which was great, it meant finding beta that worked for me was pretty quick.

The day before the send I broke a foothold and had to change my beta through what I found to be the hardest section of the route. The next day I highpointed to the last kneebar rest and the final crux was all that was left to execute. I recently started Mental training and so I was feeling prepared and confident. My go hadn’t been perfect and the conditions were pretty hot and slippy but I have been working on improving my strategy for trying harder routes as well as techniques for calming my sending jitters. So after what felt like hours resting, I took a deep breath and I climbed through the final crux first time from the ground and clipped the chains of my first 8c ! I think I spent 8 days working on the route but I’m really not sure(!) and as for what’s next my goal is to send 9a one day but one climb at a time! Currently I’m travelling around Spain rock climbing and discovering different crags and places to climb. Enjoying life!

Isabelle Faus, with a dozen 8B+' under her belt, sent Mirta (8B+) in August. "First tried it in 2016, got close, but didn’t really get a good chance to try again till this trip. Took three sessions this time. Really psyched to have done this iconic line!"

Alizee Blass has sent Periodismo (8b) in Villanueva del Rosario. She did her first 8a at age 9, on the same day as her brother, Theo, sent a 9a being 12 years old. Her father Vlad Arn reports.

”Alizee chose to try Periodismo on the advice of Spanish climbing legend Andrea Cartas whom we met at the crag. The route was well suited to shorter climbers. Progress was quick and she needed 4 sessions to send it. The route was originally graded 8b/8b+ but is now considered an 8b because of new crux beta. On the next day Alizee did an 8a+ at the same crag after two tries. She has a couple of harder projects at our home crag and is looking forward to the cooler winter conditions to give them a serious push. She also enjoys competitions although she prefers climbing on real rock.”