Michaela Kiersch completes Dreamtime (8C)

Michaela Kiersch has repeated Fred Nicole’s classical Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano. The Doctor in Hand Therapy has now completed 17 boulders graded 8B or harder, along with 17 routes rated 8c+ and beyond. Remarkably, nearly all of the 29-year-old’s toughest ascents have come in just the past 2.5 years. She is also the first female to have climbed both a 9a+ route and an 8C boulder. (c) Marco Zanone

Can you tell us about the ascent and the process behind?
I first tried Dreamtime in 2022 the week after sending La Rambla. The stand start felt impossible and I couldn't really do any of the moves. Elevating my climbing to this level since then has been an incredible and gratifying process.

Since I got home from Rocklands my focus was to strengthen my left hand after the finger fracture and get into my best bouldering form yet. I didn't train specifically for Dreamtime, but I was very diligent in increasing my finger strength and power. I say this every time, but now I really think I am in the best shape of my life (for boulders).

It took 7 sessions this trip, with the first 2 sessions only able to work a few moves due to the rain and seepage. It is truly a dream come true and potentially one of the most aptly named boulders in the world (next to Dreamcatcher, of course!).

What is your finger strength training recipe?
I utilize a combination of functional finger strength training by climbing on small holds and doing static hangs. Honestly I don't have a secret recipe, it's just consistency and dedication.