Prudence Morgan-Wood does Espacio tiempo (8c)

Prudence Morgan-Wood, with three 8b+’ under her belt, has done Espacio tiempo (8c) in Sella. The 30-year-old has been on a roadrip in Spain since April and her long time goal is to send a 9a. (c) David Zarco Vila

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Espacio Tiempo was recommended to me by a friend so when we arrived in Sella (on the 25th of October) I decided to jump on the route and check out the moves. A local climber already had his draws in it and we were able to share beta. I immediately knew that the route suited me. Its steep thin tufas and crimps are perfect for smaller hands. There are no really long moves which was great, it meant finding beta that worked for me was pretty quick.

The day before the send I broke a foothold and had to change my beta through what I found to be the hardest section of the route. The next day I highpointed to the last kneebar rest and the final crux was all that was left to execute. I recently started Mental training and so I was feeling prepared and confident. My go hadn’t been perfect and the conditions were pretty hot and slippy but I have been working on improving my strategy for trying harder routes as well as techniques for calming my sending jitters. So after what felt like hours resting, I took a deep breath and I climbed through the final crux first time from the ground and clipped the chains of my first 8c ! I think I spent 8 days working on the route but I’m really not sure(!) and as for what’s next my goal is to send 9a one day but one climb at a time! Currently I’m travelling around Spain rock climbing and discovering different crags and places to climb. Enjoying life!