
10 November 2024
Molly Thompson-Smith flashes two 8A's
Molly Thompson-Smith, who was #19 in the Paris Olympics, has flashed Catatonica (8A+) in Brione and Teamwork (8A) in Chironico.
Can you tell us more about the flashes?
I arrived in Ticino yesterday from the U.K. on my birthday [27] and went straight to the boulders in Brione! I had an early start and long travel day so decided to take it easy and maybe just look at potential hard projects (like Versace (8B)). My boyfriend Sam [Prat] saw this little boulder just beneath it and when we saw it was 8A [Catatonica] and my style (crimpy), he suggested I give it a good flash go.
Sam remembered seeing a video of Marine on it, which is how we figured out what the bloc is. I watched that but ended up using different beta that I came up with during my attempt! After a bit of prep, and some hard crimping I was stood on the top - it was a great way to spend my birthday!
Teamwork was at the end of a long day watching friends climb. It was close to the road and Sam also thought I had a good chance at flashing it or climbing it quickly, so I decided to have a go before we headed home. The boulder looked really nice and really my style, so I was psyched to give it a good flash go. Luckily I was right and it felt pretty steady :)
What is next?
Iโm just here on holiday after an intense year with the Olympics, and then spending a lot of time on a project at home, so Iโm excited to support my partner Sam on his projects, and maybe climb some more 8As๐
Can you tell us more about the flashes?
I arrived in Ticino yesterday from the U.K. on my birthday [27] and went straight to the boulders in Brione! I had an early start and long travel day so decided to take it easy and maybe just look at potential hard projects (like Versace (8B)). My boyfriend Sam [Prat] saw this little boulder just beneath it and when we saw it was 8A [Catatonica] and my style (crimpy), he suggested I give it a good flash go.
Sam remembered seeing a video of Marine on it, which is how we figured out what the bloc is. I watched that but ended up using different beta that I came up with during my attempt! After a bit of prep, and some hard crimping I was stood on the top - it was a great way to spend my birthday!
Teamwork was at the end of a long day watching friends climb. It was close to the road and Sam also thought I had a good chance at flashing it or climbing it quickly, so I decided to have a go before we headed home. The boulder looked really nice and really my style, so I was psyched to give it a good flash go. Luckily I was right and it felt pretty steady :)
What is next?
Iโm just here on holiday after an intense year with the Olympics, and then spending a lot of time on a project at home, so Iโm excited to support my partner Sam on his projects, and maybe climb some more 8As๐
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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15 January 2023
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24 January 2022
Alizee Dufraisse does Versace 8B
Alizee Dufraisse has done Versace (8B) in Brione. The Frenchwoman has been one of the best female climbers in the world since 2003 when she won the Youth World Championship and was Top-9 in both a boulder as well as in a Lead World Cup. She finished her competition career in 2016 and have since doneโฆ
15 January 2023
Catatonica 8A+ by Mie Kastet (38)
Mie Kastet has done Catatonica (8A+) in Brione. "Love this problem! Appearance can be deceptive. It packs a punch! Not too experienced with these grades, so I'mโฆ
7 March 2024
Marine Thevenet flashes Catatonica (8A)
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