Niki Rusev, 18, FA’s Burzum (9a)

Niki Rusev, who did his first 9a at age 14, has made the FA of Burzum (9a) in Lakatnik. (c) Alex Totkova

”Pushed harder than I thought possible, and the sense of finally sending this route at the top was unreal. The route was freshly bolted by Faza, I think in early 2024. A massive 180° roof, 20 meters wide and there is only one line where it’s actually possible for climbing but still very hard. I decided to climb this one as a side project because for the main one better conditions are needed.

Regarding the grade, I’ve been thinking a lot and making the right choice is always hard, mostly because I don’t want to lie to myself 🤔. At first I definitely thought it’s a 9 but later some beta came up, I also adjusted more to the holds and the kneebars and it seemed to be easier but then an important step broke and made the whole section almost impossible. Luckily I found new beta that’s something in the middle in terms of difficulty. After sending it in good shape, also perfect conditions and skin I still felt it quite hard for 8c+😆. Anyway it would be great to hear second opinion. If I had to grade every single crux it would be hard: 8B boulder medium rest 7B+/7C boulder good rest 7c route.”

What is next and what about comps in 2025?
I already checked my three years project and the weather seems to be okay, last year I was quite close to do it and now I did all the moves and also good links again. The body memory is there for sure.

I can’t wait to start training for 2025 competition circuit, this time I can put a lot of work in the new Balkan climbing gym, where it gives more possibilities to train harder.