10 October 2022
Pura Vida 8A+ and Partage 8A+ by Lilli Kiesgen
Lilli Kiesgen has done Pura Vida (8A+) in Magic Wood and in Fontainebleau. The 26-year-old is a former competition climber who was #9 in the World Championship in 2016.
"I had my first session on (Pura Vida) a day when most boulders were wet. I sent Foxy lady just before and wanted to climb more on that day. Some people said Pura Vida is dry so we went there. I did the first moves pretty quickly and struggled a lot with the ending. I wanted to avoid the small pocket and tried a couple of different betas. They felt pretty hard and were tough on the skin. In the end, I figured out, that I have to use the pocket with three fingers and a foothold on the left side. The next days were really rainy. I sneaked in one session in between the rain, but it was more frustrating because the topout was not really dry enough. In the next session, I tried it with Linda Sjรถdin. I fell a couple of times at the point where you swing the heelhook to the right. I changed the beta a bit and it worked out pretty well. I sent it later on that day โบ๏ธ
Partage was on my list a couple of times. On our last trip to Bleau (in March), I had two sessions on it. In those sessions, I felt really close, but I only tried it from the bottom and couldnโt figure out the move to the big hole in the upper part. I always tried to grab two really bad slopers instead of going directly to the hole. On our recent trip, I had bad flu and lay in bed for two days so I thought Partage would be out of my range. But in the last two days, I felt better so I thought I could give it a shot. I had one small activation session and on the last day, I went to Partage. I directly checked out the upper part with a rope and made a fast send it on my second try of the day."
"I had my first session on (Pura Vida) a day when most boulders were wet. I sent Foxy lady just before and wanted to climb more on that day. Some people said Pura Vida is dry so we went there. I did the first moves pretty quickly and struggled a lot with the ending. I wanted to avoid the small pocket and tried a couple of different betas. They felt pretty hard and were tough on the skin. In the end, I figured out, that I have to use the pocket with three fingers and a foothold on the left side. The next days were really rainy. I sneaked in one session in between the rain, but it was more frustrating because the topout was not really dry enough. In the next session, I tried it with Linda Sjรถdin. I fell a couple of times at the point where you swing the heelhook to the right. I changed the beta a bit and it worked out pretty well. I sent it later on that day โบ๏ธ
Partage was on my list a couple of times. On our last trip to Bleau (in March), I had two sessions on it. In those sessions, I felt really close, but I only tried it from the bottom and couldnโt figure out the move to the big hole in the upper part. I always tried to grab two really bad slopers instead of going directly to the hole. On our recent trip, I had bad flu and lay in bed for two days so I thought Partage would be out of my range. But in the last two days, I felt better so I thought I could give it a shot. I had one small activation session and on the last day, I went to Partage. I directly checked out the upper part with a rope and made a fast send it on my second try of the day."
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