31 May 2023

Andrew Nimmer flashes five problems 8A+ to 8B

Andrew Nimmer, who did his first and only 8B+ six months ago, has flashed Massive Attack (8A+), Steppenwolf (8B), Voigas (8A+), Pura Vida (8A+) and Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood, out of which the last four were done in just the last four days.

"Steppenwolf was the number one problem I wanted to try on my trip to Magic Wood. My friend Matt and I watched countless beta videos and finally got to try it today after we waited 2 weeks for it to dry. He also sent today which helped bring the psych for the flash go.

For Voigas it looked like my style, huge moves on good holds so thought I had a solid chance at flashing. I felt like I was going to fall a few times but kept it together and tried hard for the final big move to the jug."

How have you been able to up your flash game?
I have been very close to flashing several 8A+ in the past, but have always messed up one small piece of beta and never put it together. I knew I was capable of flashing more hard boulders so this time around I am spending more time working out all the beta before jumping on. My friend Matt has also been with me trying the climbs before I do, and seeing someone do it in person really helps. Also, Moonboarding has helped a lot in preparation for this trip.

Your grade pyramid and especially the high proportion of flashes is unique. There should be plenty of room for doing 8C's?
I have been able to flash boulders relatively close to my max level for a while, and I think it comes from having a good ability to visualize climbs and how they will feel before I try them. I tend to climb with a lot of focus and tension, so that controlled style helps for flash attempts. Specifically to Magic Wood, the boulders are pretty straightforward and powerful without too many subtleties, which lends well to flashing. With the current breakthrough in flash grades, I think yes, maybe I can do more 8B+ and maybe 8C if I spend more time projecting.

What's the next plan?
I plan to try to flash a few more classics. I nearly flashed Dark Sakai (8B) today but I dabbed twice near the ending. Ended up sending it 2nd try. I also want to try Power of Now (8B+). A little less than 2 weeks remaining before I go home!

Have you done any stand-out and slightly more moderate problems in Magic Wood?
Blue Sky Of Mine (6A+), and Octopussy (8A).
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