NEWS

Piotr Schab, who has already done four 9a's in February, has onsighted L'espiadimonis 8c in Margalef, which originally was an 8c+. Cold fingers, free mind, good flow, big fight!" In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year old Pole is #3.

The idea and concept of Klรคttercentret's challenge, The Project, is really nice. Here are some suggestions how to make it more interesting. 1. Make the route a 9b, it will still be the hardest indoor route in the world and if someone tops it out, just make the last move harder, i.e. 9b+. 2. Put up a first 9a anchor with equal money prize for the female. The current Euro 5 000 for the top is a bit discriminating for the female. 3. Attach grades to the some holds on the way so an average Joe could try and go for a personal best. Naturally sponsors can say that they want their athletes to go and try the route but in reality why should a rock climber invest weeks for working on a project they know they cannot do. Would the rock climber not try to do their 9a project instead?

Myลกlienka a koncept The Projectu, ktorรก vznikla v ลกvรฉdskom Klatterncentrete, je parรกdna. Tu je zopรกr nรกvrhov, ako ju spraviลฅ eลกte zaujรญmavejลกou. 1. Postaviลฅ cestu ako 9b, ฤo ju aj tak bude robiลฅ najลฅaลพลกou indoorovou cestou na svete, a ako ju niekto preleziem, jednoducho spraviลฅ poslednรฝ krok ลฅaลพลกรญ, napr. 9b+. 2. Spraviลฅ alternatรญvny zlaลˆรกk, ku ktorรฉmu by obtiaลพnosลฅ cesty bola napr. 9a a daลฅ rovnakรบ finanฤnรบ odmenu pre prvรบ ลพenu, ktorรก k nemu dolezie. Momentรกlne odmenu 5000โ‚ฌ za prelezenie projektu je pre ลพeny trochu diskriminujรบca. 3. Pridaลฅ hodnotenie k niektorรฝch chytom postupne v ceste, aby si ktokoฤพvek, kto cestu polezie, mohol zmeraลฅ, ako ฤaleko sa dostal. Sponzori prirodzene chcรบ, aby sa ลกportovci, ktorรฝch sponzorujรบ, pustili do takรฉhoto projektu, ale preฤo by mal lezec strรกviลฅ tรฝลพdne nacviฤovanรญm umelej cesty, aj keฤ vie, ลพe ju nemรดลพe daลฅ celรบ? Nie je logickejลกie pre takรฉhoto lezca รญsลฅ radลกej skรบลกaลฅ nejakรฝ 9a projekt vonku? Autor: Jens Larssen

Pietro Biagini, who did his first 8c+ almost two years ago, has done Anchorage 8c+ in Albenga, and he only needed two sessions. In the Combined Youth World Championship, the Italian got the bronze but later it turned out that the calculation was wrong and he was #4. What is you plan and ambition 2017? I really don't know if I can be part of the team that will go to the Olympics in 2020, but this year one of my most important objectives in addition to the world championships in Innsbruck will be definitely the qualification for the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires in 2018. In fact this year I will train more the Speed โ€‹โ€‹for having more chances in the combined! Of course I also have many ideas for the rock and I would also participate in some of the World Cup. A dilemma for Pietro is that it is two hours driving from where he lives to the nearest IFSC Speed wall so he also agrees that it would be better if there were verious speed climbing routes.

Henning Wang got the last day action from Adam Ondra's tries on Neanderthal 9b, where he got very high up "Despite the conditions, (wet tufa, 20+ degrees, high humidity)," and after skipping many quickdraws did fall probably some 20 meters.

8B (A+) by Caroline Sinno in Font
Caroline Sinno, who had sent three 8A+'s previously, has done Miroir de vanitรฉ 8B (A+) in Fontainebleau. In the 8a ranking game, the owner of Crimpoil is #11. "Nice trav opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier back in the days on the boulder of haute tension in Rempart. I found the moves very cool and it's pretty short and intense (around 15 moves) so I didn't feel I was pump but more struggling for the last hard move and a bit scared for the top out. Good training for my other project la cicatrice! I was thinking more 8a+ for the grade but I don't know?"

First 8A by Leo Skinner (just 13)
Leo Skinner, who turned 13 two days ago, has done his first 8A, Butch Cassidy at Dinas Rock and it went down fast. "Three and a bit sessions and it went down in the wet. glad to get this done whilst I'm still young! stuck the bottom crux moves and power screamed through until the finish. out of nowhere!" Here is a video from Albarracin he edited some 10 months ago and his coach, Morgan Preece, they got the 8A on film.

8C FA by Toshi Takeuchi
19 February 2017

8C FA by Toshi Takeuchi

Toshi Takeuchi has done the FA of Kuzo 8C in Mie, which adds an 8B dyno intro to Borsalino 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, the Japanese is #2. "Finally stick the Dyno from start!!!! 7 moves 8B+ and 1 move 8B (Crux Dyno). I am very proud to add new vision for this legendary problem. Could be C+ but I don't have such a experience to judge that border line. Time will tell:) On to the next!!!"

Henning Wang zachytil poslednรฝ deลˆ pokusovania Adama Ondru v ceste Neanderthal 9b. Adam v tejto dlhej vytrvalostnej stropovici zaznamenal dobrรฝ progres "...napriek podmienkam (pokrรก tufa, viac ako 20 stupลˆov, vysokรก vlhkosลฅ)..." a v tomto pokuse si po necvaknutรญ niekoฤพkรฝch expresiek zalietal cca 20 metrov.

La Sportiva Climb in 60 Gyms starts today in Moscow
The annual Climb-In-Gym Tour starts today in Moscow and until 25/4, the LaSportiva will visit 60 big gyms in 13 countries in Europe.