Moritz Perwitzschky is in the flow, which he proved doing 15 boulders graded 7C and harder during the last six days, including four 8A+'s and one 8B. To make his recent performance even more impressive, he has done 31 boulders 8A and harder only in 2017. One of his tricks to keep warm. New video. "For keeping our Fingers warm we heat up some stones to put them in the calkbag which works quite well." (c) Hannes Pablitschko

Cody Roth, #6 in his Lead World Cup debut back in 2003, has done the FA of Me I Eat Dust 9a in Texas. "I'm not at liberty to give the name or location of this secret spot, but if someone is interested in trying these routes, access can likely be arranged" (c) Kilian Fischhuber - This route does the crux of I, Me, Mine, (downgraded to 8c+ which Kilian actually did second go and he also flashed an 8b+) then carries into an 8A+/8B boulder problem with no rest in between. It's basically a 20 move sequence where only one hand can be chalked. Time wise, last year after I did I Me Mine, I started trying this thing but tore a pulley three days in. I recovered and made some progress in the Spring, but then Summer arrived. I resumed trying it in October or November before suffering the breaking hold set back. Hard to say how many days I put in, for sure more than anything else I've done, but I have little to zero interest in grading anything harder than 9a, I'm old school! A few weeks ago I did my first 8b+ flash and red pointed two 8c+ in a handful of tries, although I downgraded one of them. I guess I'm in a good vein of form. I'm now 33 and climbing maybe better than ever mainly because I know it's fleeting. In my 20's I wasn't very good at prioritizing, I'd stay up until 3 partying and wake up at 9 to go climbing. I never wanted my climbing to be forced or planned. I didn't want to overthink it. I owe a lot of my recent success to my girlfriend and my community here in Austin, they keep me grounded and motivated.

Adam Ondra has done Politicamente Corruptos 8c+ in Margalef, which he has recorded as a redpoint, commenting, "Just did the other 8c+ seven years ago which share the same start (more or less 7c+)...so going ethically into the detail, hard to say if it is actually an onsight." The photo by Henning Wang is from Neanderthal 9b, which is Adam's current project. Basing on the 8a Practice & Ethics we think this is just OK to call it an onsight and many would do. It is impossible to use a black or white onsight definition as climbers often get some onsight beta hanging out at the crag and sometimes even belaying a friend. Thus, onsight is often in the grey zone. Let us say that the shared start was just a 6a climb - then everyone would agree on Adam's onsight. This is 8a's green light for onsight. Do you agree? "When the shared part of the climb is more than a full grade lower, i.e. two 7c+ routes have the same 6c start."

Melloblocco je už niekoľko rokov najväčším lezeckým festivalom na svete. Tento rok sa bude konať 11.-14. mája a už dva dni po zverejnení registrácie sa naň prihlásilo viac ako 400 pretekárov!

Adam Ondra preliezol v Margalefe Politicamente Corruptos 8c+ a zapísal si ho do denníčka ako RP s komentárom: "Pred siedmimi rokmi som preliezol susedné 8c+, ktoré s touto cestou zdieľa štart (viac-menej 7c+)... a keď sa na to detailne pozriem z etického hľadiska, je ťažké určiť, či to bol naozaj onsight.". Autor fotografie je Henning Wang a je z cesty Neanderthal 9b, ktorá je Adamovým projektom. Na základe 8a sekcie o Etike a Správaní je v poriadku nazvať tento prelez OS a viacerí by tak spravili. Je nemožné čierno-bielo rozlíšiť čo je OS a čo nie, keďže lezec môže často dostať radu ohľadne konkrétnej cesty len pri postávaní pod stenou či počas istenia kamaráta. Onsight je preto často v "šedej zóne". Povedzme, že by zdieľaný štart Adamovej cesty bol za 6a - potom by veľká väčšina ľudí súhlasila, že sa jedná o OS. Z nášho hľadiska to teda znamená zelenú pre Adamov onsight. Súhlasíš? "Keď je spoločný štart ciest aspoň o celý stupeň ľahší ako zvyšok, napr. keď dve cesty obtiažnosti 7c+ majú spoločný štart za 6c, vtedy sa môže jednať o OS."

Smart Climbing Gym // Bergstation, Telfs from Vertical Life on Vimeo.

Hueco 2017 from martin mobraten on Vimeo.

Na obrázku nájdeš Top 5 lezcov zoradených podľa rebríčka, ktorý zohľadňuje vek aj pohlavie. Takisto si môžeš pozrieť rebríček na základe OS či Flash prelezov. Novinkou je možnosť "zahrať" si bodovaciu hru v špecifickej oblasti s kamošmi, kde si môžeš nastaviť špecifické kritéria.

Hueco 2017 od Martina Mobratena na Vimeu.

Here is the list of the Top-5 in our Age & Gender ranking game. You can also find ranking games based on onsight or flash. Another option is to play the game with your friends for specific crags, where you can set your specific criteria.