Pekný lezecký video potrét Megan Mascarenas z lezenia vo Fontainebleau. Táto americká lezkyňa je na štvrtom mieste v rebríčku 8a a v posledných šiestich kolách svetového pohára neskončila horšie ako štvrtá.

V súšasnosti je len málo lezcov či lezkýň, ktorí by dosahovali špičkové výsledky v oboch lezení s lanom a boulderingu. Na obrázku môžeš vidieť Top-5 z nášho 8a.nu rebríčka, kde sa na druhom mieste nachádza Amanda Brezowska. Minulý rok preliezla svoje prvé 8b+ a iba posledný týždeň za jej podarilo vyliezť svoje prvé tri 7C+ká. Boulder na fotke je Slow Dance v Bishope. "Lezenie je môj život! Začala som liezť v súťažnom juniorskom tíme v Calgary, cestovala som, liezla a súťažila aj medzinárodne a bola som pri tom, keď sa rozvíjala lezecká oblasť Virgin Gorda." Oplatí sa pozrieť aj jej blog!

Ida Kupś, who was #7 in the Boulder Youth Championship 2016, has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz tells us that in fact it was on her last day before going back to Poland. "I was on a three-week climbing trip in Spain, mostly in Santa Linya, except few sessions in Oliana, Terradets and others nearby crags. This route was my main goal so I focused especially on it. I think it was more or less 10 days of work. In 2017 I'd like to focus on bouldering comps, especially to prepare as good as I can for the WYCH in Insbruck. I plan to participate in some senior World Cups, probably Switzerland, Germany and Japan. I hope to have time for some small climbing trips outdors, mainly in Poland and maybe somewhere abroad during the summer holidays. These are my plans for now, but who knows what future will bring."

Roberto Podio jumps two grades up and does his first 9a, Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga. "I started to try the route in December and the movements came naturally from the very start. I honestly thought that I would have done it in a short time but I have to admit that I had underestimated it, as you need a huge dose of concentration and endurance to do it. It is extraordinary for me to join the èlite of people who can do the 9a, as it is an incredible emotion and this demonstrates that with the right amount of determination you can achieve everything. A special thanks to the Vertical Park gym and to all the friends who accompanied and supported me in this experience."

Kimbrough Moore has done a research on Which Climbing Companies Sponsor The Most Women?. Here is his list of top 10 out of 19 companies primarily taken into account. It interesting that all the six companies who have had banners on 8a last year are at very top of the list, written in bold. 1 Prana 45% 2 Sterling Ropes 41% 3 Mammut 38% 4 Five Ten 36% 5 Evolv 35% 6 Metolius 31% 7 Mad Rock, North Face, La Sportiva 29% 10 Black Diamond, Petzl 28% Here you can find another research showing that only some 5% of topos have been written by female.

Az első "köteles" autók célozták meg a melegebb idő reményében az Isztriát. Jellemzően az első túrák a teremkiszabadulás fényében zajlanak, ez leginkább métermászást és on-sightolást jelent a többségnek. Nem úgy Bajusz Balázsnak, aki bezsebelte az első idei Magyar 8a-t, negyedik köztestől földig zakó ide, fájó ujjak oda.. a 7c on-sight és a 8a second go úgy látszik be van gyúrva. A Ledeno Doba, Medveja-i 8a esett el. De Északabbra is szikkadás volt. Nagy Ferdinánd pörentett oda, a lassan már saját birtokának mondható Spitzen, ráadásul nem is akárhogy! Nándi két 8A+ büntetett le egy nap alatt a Mandela és a Büdös Patkány nevű bouldereket. Utóbbinak egyébként ez volt az első ismétlése. Számos projektet és FA-t kerget jelenleg is Nándi - reméljük beérnek még tavaszig a vadak.

"Can you record a route where you grabbed the anchor?" If you grab an anchor, you do the route artificially and you should not record it. In general this also means that the anchor is misplaced and you can add a variation of the route with a lower grade if you just reached the clipping position. Climbing accomplishments should be about doing sequences and not jumping to anchors or reaching high up to clip a misplaced anchor.

Seb Bouin has done 21 routes 9a and harder. Even so, the silent crusher is not very well-known. In the video he explains his climbing vision, why and how he does this sport.

Otázka: "Môžeš si zapísať cestu, ak si na jej konci pred cvaknutím chytil zlaňák?" Ak sa musíš pred cvaknutím držať za borhák či reťaz zlaňáku, tak si na prelez použil umelú pomôcku a nemal by si si ho zapísať. Takisto to ale môže naznačovať, že ak sa zlaňák cvaká ťažko, je pravdepodobne zle umiestený. Alternatívou môže byť doliezť k predposlednému isteniu cesty a spraviť tak ľahšiu variantu, poprípade doliezť k zlaňáku a odskočiť si, čo však z hľadiska bezpečnosti nie vždy ide. Lezecký výkon by mal byť v prvom rade o prelezení ťažkých sekvencií a nie o nutnosti chytania sa zlaňákov či o naťahovaní sa za zle umiestneným istením.

Toru Nakajima reports on Facebook that he has done Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming in Bishop. It took the Japanese three years and 16 sessions. Given that Paul originally thought the problem was an 8C+ and that Alex Megos called it his hardest, it might be a contender to be upgraded? "We arrived Bishop at 15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, i realized I can check holds and my condition on everything. we walked laughed load because of heavy snow this January. I cleaned up holds, put mats, and practiced crux move as like last year. I realized I can do crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I can complete this problem and have to do it now. I started from the beginning, caught the grassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while my way to the top, even I descended to the ground. I paid enormous energy and time, I felt heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it more easier than I expected. I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. May be i have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!!"