
25 August 2022
Avezou, Copar, Van Duysen and Kayotani win gold in Dallas
Japan has had a great start in the Youth World Championship in Dallas getting five medals including one gold by Ritsu Kayotani in the boys U-18. He and also the silver medalist, Toby Roberts from GBR, were the only youngsters doing all 14 problems, among the two + two oldest categories. Complete results
Among the oldest boys, Hannes Van Duysen from Belgium, who recently was #12 in the Lead Euro CH in Munich, won being the only won doing three boulders. "Doing World Cups Iโve had to train more and get smarter during simulations because of the level of competition. That has really motivated me to train harder and the extra training has shown." Complete results
In the girls U-18, Sara Copar won each round actually by doing at least one boulder more the all the others. In the finals, the Slovenian needed just five tries doing the four boulders. Last year she got the gold in Lead in the YWCH and this year the 17-year-old's best World Cup result is #12 in Lead. "I came here to enjoy and make it to finals, maybe the podium. I didnโt know what to expect actually. But qualification was good. Then semis was good. Then the final was crazy, it all seemed to be happening so fast. โIโm just so happy. I donโt care what is going on anywhere else, I just wanted to climb and enjoy myself and thatโs what I did. Everything seemed to go to plan and now Iโm so happy.โ Complete results
Zรฉlia Avezou from France, sibling to Sam who recently was #2 in the Munich ECH, did win U-20 being the only one doing all four problems and she also won each round. Zรฉlia's oldest brother Leo has also won several events as a junior and their mother Cecile was one of the very best Speed climbers in the mid-90'ies. Complete results
The youngest boys and girls had their semi yesterday and highest up in the ranking were Augustine CHI, USA - 4T4z 5 4 and Lucy GARLICK, GBR - 4T4z 6 4. Here is the full IFSC report with more quotes.
Among the oldest boys, Hannes Van Duysen from Belgium, who recently was #12 in the Lead Euro CH in Munich, won being the only won doing three boulders. "Doing World Cups Iโve had to train more and get smarter during simulations because of the level of competition. That has really motivated me to train harder and the extra training has shown." Complete results
In the girls U-18, Sara Copar won each round actually by doing at least one boulder more the all the others. In the finals, the Slovenian needed just five tries doing the four boulders. Last year she got the gold in Lead in the YWCH and this year the 17-year-old's best World Cup result is #12 in Lead. "I came here to enjoy and make it to finals, maybe the podium. I didnโt know what to expect actually. But qualification was good. Then semis was good. Then the final was crazy, it all seemed to be happening so fast. โIโm just so happy. I donโt care what is going on anywhere else, I just wanted to climb and enjoy myself and thatโs what I did. Everything seemed to go to plan and now Iโm so happy.โ Complete results
Zรฉlia Avezou from France, sibling to Sam who recently was #2 in the Munich ECH, did win U-20 being the only one doing all four problems and she also won each round. Zรฉlia's oldest brother Leo has also won several events as a junior and their mother Cecile was one of the very best Speed climbers in the mid-90'ies. Complete results
The youngest boys and girls had their semi yesterday and highest up in the ranking were Augustine CHI, USA - 4T4z 5 4 and Lucy GARLICK, GBR - 4T4z 6 4. Here is the full IFSC report with more quotes.
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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