LATEST NEWS

It is a documentary film that will stay online next Monday from 9 to 24:00 Pm (Italy time) on the Ferrino website

EDITORIAL

Sunday, 20 September

Taistra Trailer on Hotel Supramonte 8b MP

It is a documentary film that will stay online next Monday from 9 to 24:00 Pm (Italy time) on the Ferrino website

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Mina Markovic in a new muscular 9a shape - Picture gallery

Saturday, 19 September

Mina Markovic in a new muscular 9a shape - Picture gallery

Mina Markovic has been one of the best competition climbers during the last 15 years. In between 2010 - 2015, she had her peak having won 23 World Cups, including two in bouldering. During the last years, she has been studying psychology and biopsychology, which created interest and passion into understanding the consequences of low energy availability. A report of this knowledge in regards health prevention has been published, acknowledging and detecting low ea and disordered eating in sport, including climbing.

This work will soon be possible to access on her IG profile 😋 @miiiinam_psychilogy) as well as invitations for some webinars, workshops and other discussions around this topics in sport). The plan is to follow up and possibly give some further recommendations. (on biopsychology, nutritional psychology and mental health prevention in sport.

During the last season, she started to get some 'random' health issues. No 'real reason' was found but she was advised to gain some weight.

"After a while, it turned out, that my body was more than thankful to me for this step. 🙇‍♀️, my recovery and training gains become notable. But moreover, what means to me more, I feel free, relaxed and psyched for what life is offering to me. Enjoy all the special moment(s) and smile a lot on every single day! 🤣👌🤣 I would (maybe) prefer not to discuss my weight as I want to avoid those 'numbers' maybe to be taken into the wrong direction by some (especially young) climbers and triggers for some people, to actually achieve this weight ...which I believe is not best approach. But, I can easily mention, that I am at least up for about 4 kg since my comp shape. Climbing (maybe) better and stronger than ever 😋." More thoughts on her Insta.

This summer she has done two 9a's, Halupca 1979 and Waterworld (c) Luka Fonda. The pictures show her new more muscular shape. It should be mentioned that Urska Repusic, also from Slovenia, who won the Euro Boulder Championship last year, has just recently come forward with eating disorder thoughts on her Insta.

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Saturday, 19 September

Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) by James Webb

James Webb has logged his first routes since he did Dreamcatcher 9a back in 2018; three 8c's and Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) in Wicked Cave. "Maybe 8C+? Felt pretty hard to me but then again, I'm not much for endurance routes. Rad line. Props to Joe for the vision and Matty for the FA."

"Jimmy" has been one of the leading boulderers the last ten years having done 292 boulders 8B and harder, out of which 14 flashes.

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EDITORIAL

Friday, 18 September

Euro Youth Cup Augsburg

The Euro Youth Cup in Augsburg started yesterday and based on the first results, the route setters were right on target with just one top out in two categories and were few tied results. In total, some 120 youngsters participated. Here you can follow the live-streaming. The finals start at 15.00.
01: Eliska Adamovska CZE - Stefan Scherz AUT
03: Lucija Tarkus SLO - Mejdi Schalck FRA
05: Alexandra Totkova BUL - Luka Jerman SLO
Complete results

The most superior winner was Mejdi Schalck who first won both the qualification rounds and later won the final seven holds ahead of the runner up. Interesting is that eastern Europe got four titles and that five of the winners are 8a members.

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Friday, 18 September

Bongo X 8c and two 8b+ OS by Mathieu Bouyoud

Mathieu Bouyoud, who previously has onsigthed 18 8b+', has onsighted another two as well as Bongo X 8C in Iluardia. "Big big fight! And it went crazy 😀. A good dose of physical resistance." In the onsight ranking game, the French is #3.

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Circle Jerk 8B by Isabelle Faus

Friday, 18 September

Circle Jerk 8B by Isabelle Faus

Isabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Circle Jerk 8B and, pictured by Chad Greedy, Anti-dihedral in the Dick cave. In total, the 27-year-old has now done some 30 boulders 8B and harder.

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Imressive tick list with personal grades by Alex Megos

Thursday, 17 September

Imressive tick list with personal grades by Alex Megos

Alex Megos reports on Insta from his productive five days trip having done six routes graded 8c+ or harder quickly. Interestingly, he has given personal grades (in brackets) for all of them including two upgrades and four down grades.

- Hades 9a (8c+?) 2nd try: A well confirmed 9a in the 8a database.
- Fonax 8c+ (8c+/9a?) 5th try
- Lichtjahre 8c+ (8c+/9a?) 3rd try: Removed chipped hold and broken foot hold (c) Michael Meisl
- Claudio Caffè 8c+ (8c?) 2nd try
- Underground 9a (8c+/9a) Flash
- Pure Dreaming 9a (8c+/9a? with kneepad) 2nd try: A well-confirmed 9a.

To give personal subjective grades are actually rare and in the big perspective, Adam Ondra is the who has done it the most among the hardcore climbers. Even so, it is widely known that there exist many old-school routes that deserve an upgrade meanwhile some of the more modern and steeper endurance routes should be downgraded.

Noteworthy is that most media but 8a and Climbing have reported Megos flash of Underground as a 9a.

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EDITORIAL

Thursday, 17 September

La révolutionnaire 8C+ by Ryohei Kameyama

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Wednesday, 16 September

Black Beauty 9a by Samuel Ometz

Samuel Ometz has done his fourth 9a in 2020, Black Beauty in Dossen. "One of the best! Dyno crux at the start, then some power endurance and hard boulder without rest at the top. It is the 1st line they bolted on that cliff. It's super obvious following a black stripe first and then going diagonally on crack systems. Patrick Aufdenblatten did the FA last fall. I lost count of the number of days, more than 10 over two years. Counting the days where I came for nothing because it was wet. Already looking forward to back next summer because there are several really good hard projects there and its probably the sport crag with the best conditions in the summer in Swiss."

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KING COBRA - ALASKAN BIG WALL FREE CLIMBING

EDITORIAL

Tuesday, 15 September

KING COBRA - ALASKAN BIG WALL FREE CLIMBING

Advertorial: Perex - "We came to Alaska for the Kichatna Spires, lured by a dream of El Capitan sized walls set on remote glaciers. Living on the wall with a week of supplies, onsighting finger cracks on a steep headwall under a midnight sun. But the Kichatna’s reputation for abysmal weather held true. After four days sifting in Talkeetna waiting for the elusive flying window our patience ran dry. Time running out, we hatched a new plan. An hour later Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi was flying us into the Ruth Gorge. Our eyes lit up as the huge granite faces filled the windows of our small Otter ski plane. Mount Barrill, and the famed Cobra Pillar appeared. Almost 1000 metres of steep, featured granite, capped with snow, and plenty of potential for a new line." More info on Mytendon.com

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