NEWS

Jakob Schubert wins Lead stage, Mickael Mawem first after quali

Tuesday, 3 August

Jakob Schubert wins Lead stage, Mickael Mawem first after quali

On a spectacular lead route, Colin Duffy (USA) (c) Jon Glassberg, Jakob Schubert (AUT), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alberto Ginés López (ESP), Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Bassa Mawem (FRA) have qualified for finals at the Olympics along with Mickael Mawem (FRA) and Tomoa Narasaki (JPN).
The lead stage was won by Jakob Schubert (AUT) who looked quite fresh all the way to the top section, reaching the same hold as Colin Duffy (42+). Alex Megos and Adam Ondra did not have their best day. While Megos seemed to have issues with the heat and struggled early on, Ondra appeared to be motoring right along until he missed the rhythm change and suddenly fell off, looking surprised. Megos missed finals, being ranked 9th. For Ondra, a score of 39+ was enough for finals. Sadly, Bassa Mawem injured himself on the biceps after only a few moves and probably won’t be able to start in finals. Link to official Qualification results

The first half of the route was relatively easy, so everyone climbed up fairly high apart from Bassa who fell due to his injury. Like in bouldering, the routesetters set the stage for a great show. All unused bolts were removed from the wall, and those remaining were protected by plastic covers. The TV presentation was much better than in Bouldering.

Lead Stage Results
1 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 2 42+ (4:02) - [Combined Rank: 4]
2 Duffy Colin (USA) 42+ (4:44) [3]
3 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 41+ [6]
4 Ondra Adam (CZE) 39+ [5]
5 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 39 [8]
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 36+ [9]
7 Pan YuFei (CHN) 36 [14]
8 McColl Sean (CAN) 35+ [17]
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 29+ [12]
10 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 29 [16]
11 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 28+ (2:24) [1]
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 28+ (2:33) [15]
13 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 28+ (3:09) [11]
14 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 26+ (2:11) [2]
15 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 26+ (2:29) [13]
16 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 26+ (2:34) [10]
17 Harada Kai (JPN) 25+[18]
18 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 25 (2:48)[19]
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 25 (3:58) [20]
20 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 7 [7]

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Combined ranking after 2/3 stages

Tuesday, 3 August

Combined ranking after 2/3 stages

Michael Mawem and Tomoa Naraski will climb in finals on Thursday independently of Lead results and Bassa Mawem has almost also secured a position. It is also looking good for Colin Duffy (USA), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alex Megos (GER) and Jakob Schubert (AUT). It is predicted that a score of around 400 will get you into the Top-8 final. We have added a speculated result in Lead, getting as close to 400 as possible, in order to see what more or less is needed. Remember that time will be used to split all tied result. (c) Jon Glassberg
Link to official results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 (3) | 5.95 1 (1) | 3T4z 4 5 3 pts
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) S: 2 | 5.94 B: 2 | 2T4z 6 7 4 pts
3 Mawem Bassa (FRA) S: 1| 5.45 B: 18 | 0T1z 0 4 18 pts( * 20 Lead speculation for making finals = 360)
4 Duffy Colin (USA) S: 6 | 6.23 B: 5 | 2T2z 17 12 30 pts * 14 = 420)
5 Chon Jongwon (KOR) S: 5 | 6.21 B: 10 | 1T3z 3 10 50 pts ( * 8 = 400)
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) S: 18 | 7.46 B: 3| 2T3z 7 11 54 pts ( * 8 = 432)
7 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) S: 16| 7.23 B: 4 | 2T2z 7 4 64 pts ( * 6 = 384)
8 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) S: 4 | 6.19 B: 17 | 0T1z 0 3 68 pts ( * 6 = 408)
9 Schubert Jakob (AUT) S: 12 | 6.70 B: 7 | 1T3z 2 13 84 pts ( * 5 = 420)
10 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) S: 7 | 6.32 B: 14 | 1T1z 12 4 98 pts ( * 4 = 392)
11 Hojer Jan (GER) S: 11 | 6.63 B: 9 | 1T3z 3 8 99 pts ( * 4 = 396)
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) S: 8 | 6.33 B: 13 | 1T2z 5 7 104 pts ( * 4 = 416)
13 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) S: 10 | 6.51 B: 11 | 1T3z 4 6 110 pts( * 4 = 440)
14 Megos Alexander (GER) S: 19| 7.47 B: 6 | 1T4z 2 15 114 pts ( * 4 = 456)
15 Cosser Christopher (RSA) S: 9| 6.48 B: 16 | 0T2z 0 15 144 pts
16 Pan YuFei (CHN) S: 20 | 7.59 B: 8 | 1T3z 2 15 160 pts
17 Harada Kai (JPN) S: 15 | 7.08 B: 12 | 1T2z 4 8 180 pts
18 McColl Sean (CAN) S: 14 | 6.93 B: 15 | 0T2z 0 3 210 pts
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) S: 13 | 6.71 B: 19.5 | 0T0z 0 0 253.5 pts
20 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) S: 17 | 7.34 B: 19.5 | 0T0z 0 0 331.5 pts

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EDITORIAL

Tuesday, 3 August

Bouldering comments and analysis

Sensational bouldering by Mickael Mawem getting three tops in four tries and all four zones in five tries. In 2021, his best bouldering WC results, out of four, was #10. On the other hand, he was #4 in the World Championship in 2018 and in 2019, he won the Euro Championship, so he is used to delivering when it really counts.

Jakob Schubert was #18 coming into the third boulder having just made two zones in 12 attempts. Then with just 2.5 minutes left on the clock, he pulls it together and we get the biggest (relief) scream of the night, after Mawem going full-on after each top.

In general, it must be said that the boulders were too hard as the 20 Olympians did only manage to get 20 tops altogether. I have hard times thinking the non-climbers audience appreciated this. However, all four boulders were topped out but only three athletes manage to make the zone on the second boulder. Furthermore, continuing on the positive side, there were no ties.

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Michael Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Bouldering Stage, Naraski second

Tuesday, 3 August

Michael Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Bouldering Stage, Naraski second

In a very technical Boulder stage, Mickael Mawem had an amazing round with 3 Tops in four attempts on the first three problems and won ahead of Tomoa Narasaki(JPN) and Adam Ondra (CZE). It also happens to be Mawem's 31st birthday! (c) Jon Glassberg
Alex Megos had a good round, finishing 6th. Jakob Schubert was under pressure after only having 2 zones before the last problem. He kept his cool and claimed a top on the last problem, finishing 7th.
All boulders were extremely technical and all were topped at least twice, with no ties. M1 one was a slab, M2 consisted of a very difficult shoulder/stemming move into a shoulder press. M3 was a jump into a strange press move to hold the top. M4, the steepest problem, feet first started facing the crowd, then a crack move led to the top.
It must be mentioned that the camera work and directing was very poor throughout the round, often focusing on climbers on the mat while key moments were happening on the wall.

Results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3T4z 4 5
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2T4z 6 7
3 Ondra Adam (CZE) 2T3z 7 11
4 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 2T2z 7 4
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 2T2z 17 12
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 1T4z 2 15
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 1T3z 2 13
8 Pan YuFei (CHN) 1T3z 2 15
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 1T3z 3 8
10 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 1T3z 3 10
11 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 1T3z 4 6
12 Harada Kai (JPN) 1T2z 4 8
13 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 1T2z 5 7
14 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1T1z 12 4
15 McColl Sean (CAN) 0T2z 0 3
16 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 0T2z 0 15
17 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 0T1z 0 3
18 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 0T1z 0 4
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 0T0z 0 0
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 0T0z 0 0
Link to full results The lead stage begins at 2PM Euro Time.

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EDITORIAL

Tuesday, 3 August

Speed comments and analysis

Mawem brothers were the big winners in Speed. Bassa won with 5.45 which means he will most probably be #4 or #5 overall. Younger brother Michael set a new PB with 5.95 and was #3 after Tomoa Narasaki with 5.95, as both the Speed specialists Ludovic Fossali and Rishat Khaibullin slipped. If Michael is Top-8 in Bouldering there will almost certainly be two Mawem brothers in the final.

Several personal bests where Jongwon Chon 6.21, Colin Duffy 6.23, Michael Piccolruaz, first 6.46 and later 6.32, stick out. Also, Nathaniel Coleman made a PB, 6.51 but he actually made a mistake just in the end and could have been #4 instead of #10, with a perfect finish.

The biggest setback happened for Kai Harada who was #15 after 7.08 after one slip and one fall. He was predicted to be at least Top-5 so now he needs to be Top-3 in Bouldering to make it to the final. Sure a big disappointment also for the Speed specialists Rishat Khaibullin and Ludovico Fossali who did not make clean runs. Rishat had one perfect run, until the last three moves, that could have challenged Bassa.

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Bassa Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Speed Stage, Naraski second

Tuesday, 3 August

Bassa Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Speed Stage, Naraski second

Bassa Mawem from France has won the speed stage in Tokyo with a time of 5.45. This means that he is the first speed climbing Olympic Record holder in history. In hot and humid conditions (still well above 30ºC), Mawem has basically secured a spot in the Finals on Thursday. It can be expected that even if he finishes last in the remaining stages, 400 points are enough to make it through. His brother Mickael finished third with a time of 5.95. If he gets a good result in bouldering, we might see both Mawem brothers in finals!
Among the favourites for the gold medal, Tomoa Naraski (JPN) had by far the best result, finishing in second with a time of 5.94. He skipped his second run, which meant that Adam Ondra (CZE) raced alone.
Jakob Schubert (AUT) achieved a new PB (6.70) on every run and placed 12th, Adam Ondra finished 18th, and Alex Megos (GER) placed 19th.
Overall there seemed to be a great atmosphere with many athletes achieving personal bests.
The boulder stage begins at 11AM Euro Time.


Results:
1 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 5.45
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 5.94
3 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 5.95
4 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 6.19
5 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 6.21
6 Duffy Colin (USA) 6.23
7 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 6.32
8 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 6.33
9 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 6.48
10 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6.51
11 Hojer Jan (GER) 6.63
12 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 6.70
13 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 6.71
14 McColl Sean (CAN) 6.93
15 Harada Kai (JPN) 7.08
16 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 7.23
17 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 7.34
18 Ondra Adam (CZE) 7.46
19 Megos Alexander (GER) 7.47
20 Pan YuFei (CHN) 7.59

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EDITORIAL

Monday, 2 August

The Speed starting order 10 am Euro Time

Sport Climbing will make its debut in the Olympics on Tuesday 3/8 at 5 pm (10 am Euro Time), with the Speed discipline. The starting order is on lane A reversed to the seeding (how and when they qualified to the Olympics) and on lane B with a stagger of 50 %. This means that first out will be Christopfer Cosser RSA and Jongwon Chon KOR. Last out, in both races, will be Tomoa Narasaki and Adam Ondra. For especially Narasaki, this is a big advantage as then he will know how much he needs to push in order to advance to one of the top positions.

It is the same for Ondra but advancing in the lower part of the ranking has not so much impact due to the multiplication format. Bassa Mawem starts in the second last heat, meaning he has the best starting position of the Speed specialists. In regards to the females, Janja Garnbret and Julia Chanourdie are last out and among the Speed specialists, Iuliia Kaplina has the best starting order.

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EDITORIAL

Monday, 2 August

Male qually prediction

1. Tomoa Narasaki 5 * 1 * 6 = 30
2. Adam Ondra 17 * 2 * 1 = 34
3. Jakob Schubert 8 * 3 * 3 = 72
4. Alex Megos 18 * 6 * 2 = 216
5. Alberto Ginés Lopéz 7 * 8 * 5 = 280
6. Kai Harada 6 * 5 * 11 = 330
7. Colin Duffy 10 * 9 * 4 = 360
8. Bassa Mawem 1 * 19 * 19 = 361

Not into the final
9. Michael Mawem 4 * 10 * 14 = 560
10. Alexsey Rubtsov 19 * 4 * 10 = 760

Here are some further details comments, who will make finals.

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Male Speed PB's

Monday, 2 August

Male Speed PB's

Offical Speed personal best rankings: (It should be noted that most of the athletes have made faster times during practice and non-official competitions.) (c) Jon Glassberg
5.53 Rishat Khaibullin KAZ
5.57 Bassa Mawem FRA
5.78 Ludovico Fossali ITA (5.65 in Italian Cup)

6.15 Tomoa Narasaki JPN (5.73 in Japan Nationals)
6.25 Mickael Mawem FRA (5.97 in Tokyo training)
6.29 Alberto Ginés López ESP
6.34 Kai Harada JPN
6.45 Jan Hojer GER
6.46 Colin Duffy USA
6.65 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
6.72 YueFei Pan CHI
6.72 Nathaniel Coleman USA
6.80 Jongwon Chon KOR
6.83 Christopher Cosser RSA
6.99 Sean McColl CAN
7.00 Jakob Schubert AUT
7.12 Tom O'Halloran AUS
7.27 Alexsey Rubtsov RUS
7.46 Adam Ondra CZE
7.57 Alex Megos GER

It is expected that most of the ones in the lower part of the ranking will set personal bests. It just might be that some of the ones that are not among the best in Lead and Bouldering will set a new PB with 0.5 seconds. Strategically, they just might have focused most on Speed during the last months as this probably have been their best chance to get a good multiplied overall score. Alexey Rutsov has chosen the other strategy having only done six suns in 2021 including three in Tokyo.

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Schubert prepares with ice west/wrists

EDITORIAL

Monday, 2 August

Schubert prepares with ice west/wrists

Jon Glassberg reports on Insta that Jakob Schubert prepares with the vest ice and wrist ice combo. It is predicted to be 30 degrees when the Speed qualification begins at 17.00 local time and later drop to 27 degrees at the end of the Lead qualification.

"Staying cool in 80+ F heat with suffocating humidity might be the difference between making finals or going home empty handed. Would be shocked if this guy didn't make the finals..."

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