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Coup d’etat 9a FA by Simon Lorenzi

Friday, 3 July

Coup d’etat 9a FA by Simon Lorenzi

Simon Lorenzi, #14 in the last World Cup 2019, has done the FA of Coup d’etat, which he thinks could be the first 9a in Belgium. The route was bolted by Micha V…


EDITORIAL

Friday, 3 July

Parkour wall running starts

Running starts have been part of the competition scene but it has never really taken off outdoors. The parkour world record in wall running is 4 meters so you could just imagine what such specialists could do putting several pads in a row and just wall run up some 8A slabs. In practice, taking two s…


WoGü 8c:9a+? MP by Cedric Lachat

Friday, 3 July

WoGü 8c:9a+? MP by Cedric Lachat

Cedric Lachat has done the fourth ascent of WoGü in Rätikon which Adam Ondra made the FA of in 2009. Beat Kammerlander bolted it in 1997 and the name is a tribu…


EDITORIAL

Thursday, 2 July

Training - Fear of falling

The easiest and the fastest way, for most of us, to improve as a climber is to start to train your "fear-of-falling". At the same time, we spend hundreds of hours training our muscles, very few spend an hour training and practicing falling. If you during your warm-up also include your mental strengt…


Three 8c+' by Jan Hojer

Thursday, 2 July

Three 8c+' by Jan Hojer

Jan Hojer, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has during the last few days done three 8c+' as well as one 8c in Frankenjura; I bleed back, Hattori Hanzo, Madonna …


Mind Stream 8A+ by Chloe Pay (18)

Wednesday, 1 July

Mind Stream 8A+ by Chloe Pay (18)

Chloe Pay, who has done her first three 8A's in 2020, has also done her first 8A+, Mind Stream in Smugglers notch. During the last three months, the 18-year-old…


Oriane Bertone (15) interview

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 1 July

Oriane Bertone (15) interview

Oriane Bertone did her first 8A boulder at age 9 and with 70 up to 8C, she has been one of the best female boulderers for a couple of years although born 2005. …


Wednesday, 1 July

Raboutou and Puccio send The Automater 8B

Brooke Raboutou, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, and Alex Puccio, have done The Automater 8B in RMNP. For Alex it was a repeat since 2014 and she comments on Insta. "With everything going on with Covid and gyms not being so accessible training outside has been something I have been getting use to.…


Apocalipsis de la Gioconda 9b (a+) by Jose Luis Palao

Tuesday, 30 June

Apocalipsis de la Gioconda 9b (a+) by Jose Luis Palao

Jose Luis Palao, who did the FA of Mona Lisa integral 9a+ in Rodellar two weeks ago, has done the first repeat of Jonathan Flor's 60 meters Apocalipsis de la Gi…


Nuthin but sunshine 8B and two 8A+' by Katie Lamb

Tuesday, 30 June

Nuthin but sunshine 8B and two 8A+' by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has done her sixth 8A+, Element Of Surprise in just one session as well as her first 8B, Nuthin but sunshine both in RMNP. Previously in 2020, she h…