JOSUNE BEREZIARTU & RIKAR OTEGI

 

 

Interview & translation: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

 

 

 

All of us know that the fact that a woman put her performances in the same level with the best comrades of the opposite sex in a physical sport is not very frequent. Well, here you have one of those exceptions, with the name of Josune Bereziartu, who is since 1998 beating feminine records and getting closer until reaching with Bimbaluna (9a/+), the maximum proposed and confirmed grade.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Besides, we also count in this interview with her partner, Rikar Otegi. He's a man not very lavish in his sends diffusion, but that with no doubt, they are at the first rate.    

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Tell us who are you and something about your partner

Josune in a 8b pitch in Yeah Man

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I was born in Lazkano (Basque Country - ) I've been climbing for 16 years and I started climbing just because I watched a pair of women climbing in a TV program and decided I had to practise that sport. I've been practising countless sports, basically collective ones (football, basketball, handball...), since I was a little girl. The thing which more attracted me from climbing was that feeling, half fear, half disequilibrium, hard to describe and that when you are starting is so difficult to dominate.

Concerning Rikar, the most characteristic feature of his personality is the calm. I am much more visceral and passionate.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: I am Rikar Otegi, was born in Ordizia (Basque Country-), the adjacent village to Josune's, and I'm the Josune's partner. I've been climbing for 20 years. I started climbing big walls and later sports routes almost exclusively.

Josune is quite "pigheaded", if something gets in her mind she doesn't give up till she achieves it. Determination is an important feature of her character as well.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What is the most and the less motivating thing when climbing with your couple?

The best thing is the tune and the reinforcement with the other when both are going to try a common project. The worse is that someone's problems pass into the other and this debilitate you sometimes.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Do you climb full-time or do you have to make other things to reach the end of the months?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> My father died seven years ago. He shared an insurance portfolio with a friend. My mom gave over its

Rikar also in Yeah Man. This time in an 8a pitch Picture: Laurent de Senarcliens

exploitation to Rikar and me. When we are very focused in climbing we have a friend and silent partner who carries all the work. But when we are less centred we have to work and watch over it.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What is your concept for climbing?

It is a similar way of understanding the climbing. We come from a time when we felt very involved in its evolution. Both of us have started climbing in rock routes even when Rikar did some alpinism. The mountain runs in our blood, it is unforgettable, it is our roots. We knew the competition almost at its beginning. The tool which allows us to enjoy climbing is the training, the mean is the climbing gym and the scenario is the rock and its different routes.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">I can suppose each time you visit a climbing spot you are the focus of attention. How do you feel that? Is it oppressive or it serves you an extra of motivation?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: It is something understandable and we have to accept it. When I feel better is when it exist a nice ambient and a special conjunction is created with other climbers, the environment, etc. It gives you an extra of motivation to climb and push yourself a little bit further.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Tell us something that you would change in climbing and something that you would preserve as a treasure.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: It is not exactly something I would change. I'd wish and support more women to climb with free will and self-confidence, but with respect. Society in general puts us up enough barriers to dodge yet, do not place ourselves more.

I would maintain to the last the respect for the climbing spots, their routes and their environment.

Josune crimping in another shot of Yeah Man.

-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Your most notorious sends during the last times have been at on-sight. Is this style what motivates you the most right now?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I was a little bit tired of trying routes. I felt like breathing new air, going to a new climbing spot and if you fancy staying and you feel ease then you climb and if not you leave the place, with no fixed destination, letting the climbs and the circumstances you receive in that moment guide you. That feeling that the on-sight provides you, one only opportunity and that's it. It is very strong and special for me.   style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">It seems evident with Josune that women can match men in climbing but, do you think you are a special case or that it is just a matter of constancy and motivation? In your special case, Josune, what sacrifices have you paid to be where you are? Any in special with regard to men?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I think that the path I have opened must be useful for other girl climbers to lean and get persuaded of that it is possible to climb really hard routes. That path is there but, that amount of energy, perseverance, motivation, determination and belief in what you are doing has to be put. Summing it up in perseverance and motivation is too simple. I do not feel sacrifices like that, compensations always arrive, bigger or smaller but, if

Josune in Logical Progression, 9a. Yoyama, Japan. Picture: Rikar Otegi.

you know how to look for them they are always attained.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Tell me how you train.

Basically, we have two periods of form at year; each period is divided in meso-cycles and they are split, at the same time, in four-week cycles. In every meso-cycle we give priority to one aspect, without forgetting the others. We make a lot of series with short recovery times depending on the traverses. We never give up rope climbing, it is to say, in a climbing gym or in real rock when the weather is okay. When the big training periods arrive to the end we basically climb outdoors.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">In the last times you have diversify your practice towards the big walls. Has it been a mirage or it is something which really hooks you up?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: We have been climbing big walls every summer, sometimes harder routes, other times easier ones. Rikar comes from climbing and even opening some semi-sport climbing routes (not totally bolted) in the and I started climbing semi-sport climbing routes in multi-pitch routes, so it's not a new thing for us. It is a kind of escape from the sport climbing, understanding this last one as something more rigid (training, etc.).

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">It seems like David Graham, besides revising the bouldering grade down, has also commented that Bain de Sang is more like 8c+ for him. What's your opinion in both topics?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I know just a little bit about the controversy set by Dave concerning the graduation in the 8C's. I can't give my opinion about this new graduation because I haven't done any of these 8C's. Besides, I do not know

Fuente de Energía, 8b. Vadiello. Picture: Rikar Otegi.

whether he still thinks the same.

Every climber has his/her own point of view about the routes/boulders he/she climbs. If Dave thinks they are that graduation, it is his opinion and it is pretty respectable. Everyone knows graduation is something subjective and personal. They are emotional feelings transmitted by the climbing and that then we translate into numbers and letters.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: This is why it is so important of an opinion tendency concerning the graduation of a route or boulder to exist. In the case of hard routes it is something almost exclusive for very few climbers able to climb them.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Are you going to try with the competition again? What do you like and what you don't like? What would you change in its format?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: Competition is something we have almost completely forgotten. I keep very good memories but the decision of quitting it was very important to me. Looking it from a competitor's point of view, I think hours spent in the isolation zone should be drastically reduced. From the spectator's side, if routes were to be climbed "flash" there would be more rhythm and the spectacle would improve giving it more dynamism.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Please, share with us your best climbing memory and, on the other hand, what is a perfect day for you.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I have had quite lot days with great feelings. A special day was when I sent Honky Tonky, 8c. It was the first feminine 8c in the world and I had this aspect very deep in me. Till then some of us, girl climbers, had sent 8b+, that was the bench mark. Getting rid of all that pressure, set in a great part by the people around me, took me a lot and when I was able to send the route it felt like a great relief and a tremendous satisfaction.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> Any day you see you are climbing fluidly and you feel strong. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> If happens that you fire an important route for you, that can be a perfect day. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What are your projects at short, medium and long term?

Right now we are relaxing for a short period. We will be focused by for the beginning of Spring but with no clear objective in mind at the moment. It will depend on how we feel to take one or other destination, to focus on a hard route or on the on-sight, we will see. A long route will be done in the process for sure.

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Josune in Solaris, 8A+. Picture: Rikar Otegi.

-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">What do you think on our web page?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> It's a very dynamic web page. The most interesting thing is the personal cards filled by the climber after sending a route. Classifications, points and all that stuff don't interest me that much. Besides, it seems like if you are having a spectacular growing.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: I like the fact that an opinion forum is created in a democratic way. For that it is decisive the personal decision to write comments only by people with a proper name. I worry that, just like any other news web page through internet, sometimes the source of information is not very reliable and the error which can derive from it, etc. I am also interested, like Josune, very much more in the cards every climber fills than in the classification which derives from it.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar, why being so strong you have chosen to remain anonymous?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> My personality, my character makes me act naturally this way. It is the way I have lived the climbing since I was doing 7a till when I have fired some 9a's. Besides, Josune makes of natural "barrier" with the media. She receives the attention like it is normal. My idea is to share my climbing with those which really appreciate it. Media is a too powerful speaker for my taste although it is impossible when I climb a very hard route that it doesn't show up.

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-          style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Is your motivation weakening after all these years? What are you going to do when your body does not give any more?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikar: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> Yeahh, it weakens, it is something absolutely obvious and normal. The time and the experience acquired teach you to save one's strength and focus more and better the moments and periods of climbing making them to coincide with moments of great motivation. I think there is a rising physical haul, but always when the mind acts as an engine.

Rikar Otegi now in an 8b pitch in Yeah Man. Picture: Laurent de Senarcliens.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> I will climb with a level in accordance with the moment; surely I will do a lot of mountain and multi-pitch routes. Nowadays, in Summer, it is like an escape but in the future it will be what motivate me the most.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A dream?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Josune: have fun. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rikard: style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"> Be able to keep on enjoying climbing. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A book?

J: "A moveable feast" Ernest Hemingway. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Alfred Hitchcock's Biography. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A film?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: A classic one, "Breakfast with diamonds" (Katherine Hepburn as the protagonist).

R: "Blade Runner". style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Music?

J: "Anari" (the last album from this Basque's composer: "Zebra"). style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R:

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Politics?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Own benefit. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Mistrust.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Religion?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Sometimes. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Not much. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Half-full or half-empty?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: I have it and I have to see it half-full, although sometimes my character tends to see it half-empty.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Half-full.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Routes or boulder?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: A moment for each one. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Passion for the routes, amusement in the boulders. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Rice and salad or big mac with fries?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Big salad with rice and potatoes.

Josune in company...

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Rice and salad. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">A sports car or a van?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: A van. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: A sports car. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">8a.nu or gossip magazines?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 8a.nu. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 8a.nu. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Love or sex?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Sex with love. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Love with sex. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Science or beliefs?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Beliefs and science. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Science.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Aerobic or yoga?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Yoga, no doubt.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Yoga. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Beach or mountain?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Mountain.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Mountain.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Creatine or chorizo?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham). style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Neither one, nor the other.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Play station or electro-stimulation?

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: Nowadays we can't leave without electronics. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: Play station. style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Born date:

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 19-01-72

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 15-12-67

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Height:

Josune in Bimabaluna, 9a/+. Picture: Rikar Otegi.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 1, 74 cm.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 1, 78 cm.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Weight:

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: 53 kg.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: 60 kg.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Sponsors:

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">J: BEAL, PRANA, PETZL, TENAYA, EUSKALTEL, KIROLGI.

style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">R: PETZL, BEAL and TENAYA give me some stuff.

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style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">JOSUNE'S Scorecard created and administrated by 8a:

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Red point: FETUCCINI, 8b+ (1996) El Convento HONKY TONKY, 8c (1998) Araotz HONKY MIX, 8c+ (2000) Araotz NOIA, 8C+ (2001) Andonno, Italia BAIN DE SANG, 9a (2002), St.Loup LOGICAL PROGRESION, 9a (2004) Yo-Yama BIMBALUNA, 9a+ (2005) St.Loup

On-sight: NASCA, 8a+/b (2001). STEROID PERFORMANCE, 8b (2004) Hourai, Japan. FUENTE DE ENERGIA, 8b (2005), Vadiello. LA RESERVE, 8b (2005) St.Leger du Ventoux.

: BEREZI, 8A, (2000) ATOMIC PLAYBOY, 8A+ (2002) LA TRAVESIA DE BALZOLA, 8C (Traverse, 2002) Baltzola. SOLARIS, 8A+ (2003), Baltzola (Basque Country ? ) E LA NAVE VA, 8C (Traverse, 2003) Lindental, Switzerland.

Big walls: EL PILAR DEL CANTABRICO, (550 metres, 8a+ max.) El Naranjo de Bulnes. YEAH MAN, (300 metros, 8B+ máx.) Switzerland.

 

 

Interview & transalation: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Evgeni Krivosheytsev, #5 All Pics: Mattias Johansson

Maksim Petrenko, #4 in World Cup 2004

Johan Luhr (44) doing an 8a in Nikita

Said Belhaj onsighting a 7c+ in Redstone

All Pics by Mattias Johansson C2 Vertical Safety

A climbing day at 'Petit Buoux', Ukraine, is awaiting and we're in a small supermarket(one room) to shop for food. No fruit, no vegetables but after some searching we spot a shelf with freshly baked bread. To the left we find vodka, cookies and some locally produced juices and to the right there's some coleslaw and a shelf with a few candy bars and mixed cans of preserved food. International and national brands are equally represented. We point at whatever we want and the shopkeeper starts working the abacus like a key-board. Bill by bill is placed on the counter while the black and white marbles goes left and right. Eventually I get 3 cents in return and the shopkeeper gets the abacus ready for the next costumer. Maksim, #4 on the world cup 2005, purchases a package pf cookies and I glance at our dietician to see what he has to say, but he only nods back at me and says that fast energy is good for power.

On the way to the crag our heads spin like periscopes and overhangs can be spotted all through the valley. At one place there's even a small church cemented into the cliff just beneath an 8a overhang. Our guide points at a super overhang and starts telling us the grades: 6a+, 6c, 7a, 7b, 6c, etc. At a first glance there seems to be no holds at all but then we discover that the crag is filled with drilled pockets. Climbing starts. Half the crew misses a 6a+ onsight and our world cup performers are having big problems sending a 7b. The guide just laughs and tells us that the routes were 'constructed' for a competition and that in Ukraine it is not customary to change the official grades.

After a disappointing performance and 2.5 hours in a VW-bus we're back in town. Unfortunately Maksim misses the night train to Kiev, which means that the whole of the next day is spend on the road since he has to get back before the next morning when the car leaves for a 3500 km trip to the world cup competition in France (later we heard that the car broke down and that they made it to the competition just in time). In contrast to this, our group checks in to the 2500 bedroom large hotel with its own dolphin show, elevator to the beach and a 24-hour casino. Although it sounds impressing we must say that the service is as bad as we expected and after a few nights at the disco we know the sequence of all the discjockey's song lists.

Yalta is most famous for the peace conference in 1945 when Churchill, Roosvelt and Stalin divided Europe into east and west. However, for the Russians Yalta has always been a luxurious Black Sea vacation spot and this where the Russian establishment spend their vacations. Yalta has become popular because of its beautiful scenery. It is fringed by splendid mountains, which is accessible via a cabin cruiser, and there is a beautiful beach walk where you can see a huge statue of Lenin rise above expensive yachts and a McDonalds restaurant.

Yalta with surroundings also offer some of the best climbing in the region. This is a hot spot for Russian climbers and everywhere you look there are crags sticking up. We have never seen an area so extensively bulted and we are told that this is due to a few guys from Sibiria who came down for a few months and went on a bolting streak, sponsored by some rich Russian mogul. Among all the crags, we find that the best area is Red Stone where some of the routes are of world-class quality. The only problem is that the easier the grade, the more it needs upgrading (or maybe we're just weak?).

Unfortunately, as elsewhere, most routes have been manually altered to generate a certain grade and on a few routes, thick layers of cement cover holds that are considered 'to good' for the route. We are told that because of the competitions the routes are altered to become harder as the climbers advance (this is in an area with 10000 potential climbs).We also try the multi-pitches on The Sail and this could definitely be seen as the best area since it is more 'pristine'. It also extremely well bulted even on the easy sections. All and all, the potential of the area around Yalta is enormous and with changed ethics and sponsoring moguls from Russia, this could become a future Mecca for adventurous climbers.

More pictures from the different crags around Yalta

Grading scales for Routes and Bouldering

Different grading scales for climbing have been developed in different parts of the world, both for bouldering and route climbing. To date, some seven major, and a few rarer, scales are in use, though most of them can easily be converted to the French system, which is the 'oldest' and internationally most accepted system. An important distinction between the other types of scales compared with the French is that the latter differentiates more between difficulties by using smaller steps in between scales. In bouldering, for example, the French (Fontainebleau) scale includes six steps for each level (e.g. 6a to 6c+), compared to the V-scale that includes only three steps. In order to compare and translate other scales to the French, it is sometimes neccessary to use half grades. In the table below, the number of steps in between difficulty levels are shown for some of the common scales. Steps/Levels French UIAA Australian British - Rope Scandin. USA - Rope USA - Boulder 6a - 6c+ 6 4.5 5 3 4,5 7 3,5 7a - 7c+ 6 5 5 3 4,5 6 5 8a - 8c+ 6 5 6 3 4,5 6 6

Comparing the grading between Boulders and Routes

Judging by the 8a scorecard, we see that the grade-gap between routes and boulders has been reduced during the last couple of years. The white, purple and blue colour in the graph demonstrate the development in difference between Boulder and Route grades from 2001 to 2005. Previously, it was customary that 3 steps should be added to the route level to make it comparable to the boulder difficulty. However, compared to route climbing, bouldering developes faster and climbers are getting stronger, and these days it seems as if an 8A = 8b.

Although you're not supposed to compare route and boulder grades it's nevertheless interesting to do so. We think thet the easiest way to analyze the differences is by measuring the performances in routes and bulders by the climbing community and the 8a scorecard offers an excellent opportunity to do so. Based on this scorecard and its members, it seems as if a 6C boulder is as difficult to do as a 7a+ route, which means there's a difference of three steps. However, when comparing lower difficulty levels, the discrepancy between route and boulder scales increases, that is, a 6A boulder is probably equal in difficulty to a 6c/+ route (4.5 steps). On the other hand, looking at higher levels of difficulty, an 8A boulder for example, the discrepancy between route and boulder scales increases, and the difference in levels seems to be around 2 steps. This non-linear conformity between route and boulder grades is confirmed by the 8a.nu's Scorecards.

Different rope, different rope drag!

Rope drag is caused by friction on quick draws and the rock and can therefore be reduced by using longer quick draws. However, the performance climber should know that the rope itself has qualities that will affect. Hence, choosing the right rope for a hard press on a route with much rope-drag could mean the difference between success and failure when clipping the last bolt at 30 meters height;

1. The surface of the rope; how well it slides across surfaces due to rope surface treatment and wear (i.e. rugged surface)
2. The thickness of the rope; a thinner rope means less friction
3. The weight of the rope
   
   

Over the years the ropes have become thinner, lighter and often water protected (which actually makes them more slippery). The weight difference (15 grams per meter) is less important for the drag but it is clearly that an 8.9 surface treated rope will cause less friction than an ordinary 10.5 mm. Friction is, however, mostly affected by the state of the rope, that is if the rope is old, worn and/or rugged or if it's brand new. Below we show an example on how the three factors mentioned above could affect the 'rope drag load' (i.e. how heavy it is to pull the rope) while pulling the rope at 30 meters.

Rope drag factors	New & treated 8.9 mm	Used & rugged 10.5 mm
Surface texture	1 kg	3 kg
Thickness	0.5 kg	1 kg
Weight	1.5 kg	2 kg
Load to pull rope	3 kg	6 kg

Rope manufactures often warn that a new, thin and treated rope could cause such a low friction that the braking effect of the belaying device is dangerously reduced. For example, everyone knows that it is very dangerous to use a new and thin rope in a GriGri but that regular usage with other devices will increase its friction and enable GriGri use. However, the trade-off is that at the same time the rope will become harder to pull through the quickdraws. BR>

Some additional pointers

• Dynos in a steep overhangs will create a swing that is easier to control for the belayer with a high friction rope.
• Single ropes are certified based on 80 kg tests. Half ropes, which are as thin as 8 mm, could pass as a single rope for children.
• SUM is a new belay device covering ropes down to 9.1 mm.
  
  The thinnest rope on the market is Mammut 8.9 mm.

Practice & Ethics in sport climbing 
In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules or use of referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners are sometimes struggling to understand what is "normal" behavior and what's allowed and what's not. Over time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply.  

We thought it would be a good idea to discuss and define good style as of today and also give some amusing examples of violations that are practised in order to receive sponsors, glory and points. We're not saying there's a definite line between right and wrong but the fundamental idea is: don't systematically push the border of ethics towards more subjectivity, instead, keep the spirit alive. Here is a list of what 8a thinks are practices within sport climbing that are frequently interpreted in different ways; Green, Yellow and Red card are given. We estimate that about 1/3 of all ascents would not pass community approval. What do you think? Bouldering ethics are on their way.

Sport climbing practices with different interpretations	Green Card - Congratulations	Yellow Card - Ethical dilemma	Red Card - Ascent not valid!?
1. Onsight beta This style means that you should not receive beta (information) on the route before climbing.	Talk and discuss with anyone who doesn't have beta on the route. Use binoculars. Ask questions like - Do you think I can do it?	Belay but look down, once. Ask questions like: Does it suite my style?	Read topo descriptions like - 'Crux at the third bolt'. Where did you fall off? Look at route when rapelling a neighboring route. Tick-marking by a friend.
2. Gri-Gri locking/Rope drag Dynamic moves to footless often create pendel swings which may be stopped by Gri-Gri or by tight belay.	Provide enough slack so that the swing is not affected.	Holding down the release and actively give rope.	A Gri-Gri that has locked due to a swing. Any rope drag due to tight belay, even if it's the belayers' fault.
3. Pre-clipping carabiners Having the rope pre-clipped in a carabiner, like a top-rope.	One pre-clipped carabiner if it's for safety.	Two or three pre-clipped carabiners if it's for safety.	Three or more normally always means top-roping. Downclimbing is ridiculous.
4. Onsight reversing In competitions you are not allowed to downclimb to the ground but outdoors?	If you reverse once after the first move or two, due to a wet hold, wrong sequence etc.	If you reverse more than once. If you have clipped the second carabiner.	If you systematically downclimb to practice moves. If you untie and rest. If you have clipped in 3 or more carabiners.
5. Cheating stones Stones used for reaching the first holds.	If it's done and included in the grade by the First Ascent.	"I did it with an extra stone to reach the start holds"!	In order to ease an established start and keep the grade.
6. Grabbing/Clipping anchor Use of anchor carabiners as an artificial hold. The route is defined by the crag not by the anchor.	Climb the mountain not the anchor, which means that the 'top' is often above the anchor.	Finish by clipping an anchor which is placed below the top due to rope-drag etc.	Pro-longing the anchor to avoid last move. Grabbing the anchor.
7. Flash/Onsight variations Sometimes different routes have the same start or finnish.	When the shared part of the climb is more than a full grade lower, i.e. a 6c start is divided into two 7c+'s.	When the shared part of the climb is three steps lower, i.e. a 6b start is divided into two 7a's.	When the neighbouring route gives beta/info on the route that will be climbed.
8. Combinations/Variations To combine neighburing routes and add link-ups, new starts and finishes to existing routes.	Create (1) much easier/ harder combination (new anchor) or variation with quality & new characteristics.	Create (2) easier/harder combinations (new anchor) without a clear line, new characteristics or quality.	Create (3) or more combinations, variations of the same grade and characteristics with no clear line. Downclimbing link-ups. Good training but not worth a name/grade.

9. Chipping/Chopping Changing mother nature by drilling, hammering or sikaing.	Clean a route from loose stones.	Create a new hold to make a superb route possible.kljklj..........kjkkl	Improve or worsen holds. Sika.
10. Onsight coaching What are you allowed to yell?	General screaming - 'You can do it', 'C'mon', 'Go on', 'Breathe', etc.	Instructive and adaptive screaming in order to coach.	Yelling things like; 'the route goes to the right', 'the rest of the route is easy', etc.
11. Flash with beta How much info is reasonable?	Getting as much beta as possible from other climbers on the ground.	Look at the holds from a neighbouring route.	Rapell down to look at the route to find the most obvious line.
11. Downclimbing - An old style, in order to claim as many pre-clips as possible.	If it is for safety reasons you can always start with one pre-clipped.	Downclimb but not un-tie.	Climb the route. Later do the downclimb. Jump instead of downclimb.
12. Bolting trad climbs

 

I am at an internet cafe in Yalta, Ukraine (most famous for the conference in 1945), and next to me is Maksim Petrenko, #4 on the world cup ranking 2004. We are about to call Olga Shalagina, superior world champion in bouldering, to invite her to Yalta for some climbing or, alternatively, interview her by phone. Earlier we tried emailing her with some questions that Maksim had translated for me, but we recieved no answer. In the west, we are all aware of the possibilities that come with some publicity but over here things are still different. However, Maksim has now learned that if you are ranked #4 in the world, there are better sponsor deals than just free climbing shoes, and it is now up to us to convince Olga of the same. Of course we are also interested to know how she has become one of the strongest female climbers in the world.

Earlier, Maksim explained to me how difficult it is for people from Ukraine to travel smoothly in Europe. Generally you need two passports and there are always problems with VISA applications. For example, on the phone, Olga tells us that her passport is full and the process of getting her a new passport is so long that there will be no more competitions outside Ukraine this autumn. She will, however, participate in a few local competitions at home and in Russia.

As Maksim, Olga is a professional climber, living on a 200 E/month grant from the ministary. She is now training five days a week to get ready for the world cup season in 2006. When we ask her how she trains to become so strong she asks us to talk to her brother, which is also her trainer. She says that she follows a program that he has set up for the monthly training, which includes a lot of regular campus training but also weight lifting, especially in winter. Right now she is working hard on her weaknesses, such as feet placement etc. The problem, though, is that she hasn't found any good shoes (A cue for climbing companies: Olga has size 36 and 8a has her address).

Strange enough, Olga tells us that she is not focusing on power but rather on endurance. So coming to the WC, she mainly aimed to perform in difficulty and that winning the boulder trophy was just a bonus. This makes us wonder if Olga is just an extreme talent when it comes to power climbing or if bouldering actually requires some form of endurance? Olga also tells us that she is motivated by the fact that every win lands her a bonus and a raised "salary" from the ministry.

About the future, Olga doesn't dream of winning the total World Cup or living the "climbing life". She says she doesn't know if that type of life will suite her. She ends the interview by saying: "Right now, it's just great to be part of a team and train, but since I enjoy competing in difficulty, winning the world championship in that or speed would be great, haha". It will be interesting to see what will happen to this great climbing talent. 8a wishes her all the luck in the world.

Jens Larsen

Dai Koyamada - Action direct, 9a Frankenjura

Photo: Ikuko Serata.

Bouldering means few and powerful moves climbing a boulder. In fact, that's the whole point in having a separate grading system in the first place. In spite of this, many of the hardest boulders in the world are endurance games with 20 + moves in caves, or traverses linking in to up-problems. Sure it's easy to feel, and fall for, the temptation of linking a problem in to one you've already done, thereby getting a harder problem.

Well, I'm not saying link-ups are always bad, not even that there's anything wrong with any link-ups (although some of them in all honesty can feel more than a little contrived). I mean, after all, everyone climbs what he or she likes best, right?

But perhaps you need to ask yourself whether the link-up you want to do adds quality, or simply quantity? What is it you're after?

Another question is whether these creations are really to be viewed as bouldering in its true sense. I'm sure most would agree, the essence of bouldering is power and to some extent, balance. The main difficulty in climbing a problem should, hence, be being able to perform the individual moves, and then link them together. By that I mean that endurance shouldn't be the deciding factor. If it is, the "problem" is actually closer to a route, where the challenge of "keeping the powder dry" is a more typical characteristic.

One of the three problems in the world to be graded 8C+, The wheel of life, is an endurance feast of more than 60 moves. Hell, most routes are a lot shorter than that!

The first ascender himself, Dai Koyamada, said, "this is not bouldering".

So, what is it then, and how should we grade it?

And although The wheel... is still somewhat extreme in its length, the trend towards longer and longer problems, at least in the upper grades, is clear to see.

This leads us to a question:

Should the question of using a rope or not really decide what grading system we use, rather than the characteristics of the climb? If a one-mover can be compared to a 65-move monster, and a five-meter route to one with 400 moves, why do we have separate grading systems at all?

Let's wait a bit before we get to the answer to that question.Why not use a little bit of backwards thinking?

In bouldering competitions today, no problem can be longer than 12 moves. The main reason for that is that the purpose of bouldering competitions is to decide who's the best boulderer. To do that, one has thought it wise to emulate what bouldering typically is like outside. And as the essence of the sport is power (ok, timing, balance and luck too), 30-movers aren?t allowed.

Wouldn't it be a good idea to draw a sort of line between what's bouldering and what's something else? I mean seriously, when a "problem" is 25 moves or more, can you honestly say it's not more about stamina than anything else? It's no longer a question of being able to execute the individual moves, not even about linking them, but, instead, about having the endurance to go all the way. Much in the same way as a route often has a red-point crux, which you do easily when you're fresh, but haven't got enough power left to do when you reach it from the ground.

If the difficulties you encounter are the same, shouldn't the same yardstick be used?

So, where does this, logically, lead us?

As far as I can see there are two possible solutions:

1)      We keep the two different grading scales, but instead of letting the rope draw the line, we separate between the scales by deciding what character the climb has. If it has a "route-character", i.e. stamina oriented, we give it a route-grade (I guess we'll have to call it something else though), and if it has a "boulder-character", i.e. move oriented, we give it a boulder grade. Most grades will, in this scenario, stay the same.

·        The wheel of life goes from 8C+ to 9a+.

·        Realization keeps the 9a+-grade

·        Hubble goes from 8c+ to 8B

·        Former 9a, The fly is now 8B

2)      We start using a unified grading-system, differentiating between route-, or boulder-style by simply using lowercase (a, b, c) respectively uppercase letters (A, B, C). In this scenario many grades must be changed, but it has the advantage of making it easier to compare difficulties.

·        The wheel of life goes from 8C+ to 9a+ and should thus be compared to Realization, 9a+

·        Hubble becomes an 8C+ comparable to Boogalagga an 8B that might end up as 8C or 8C+.

·        The fly goes back to 9A or perhaps 8C+.

Now some will inevitably argue that the problem of clipping must be considered. After all, it does make a route harder to climb than a long boulder of similar difficulty, right?

Well, yes of course, but on the other hand, isn't it the difficulty of the climbing we're supposed to be measuring?

Do you give a route a lower grade if you decide to take a chance and skip the difficult clip? Do you give it a higher grade if you climb it in bad conditions?

Didn't think so...

Same thing if you use a top-rope on a highball. Does it make the actual climbing any easier? Does the boulder suddenly become a route just because you don't hit the deck if you fall?

By Björn Pohl

Bouldering means few and powerful moves climbing a boulder. In fact, that's the whole point in having a separate grading system in the first place. In spite of this, many of the hardest boulders in the world are endurance games with 20 + moves in caves, or traverses linking in to up-problems. Sure it's easy to feel, and fall for, the temptation of linking a problem in to one you've already done, thereby getting a harder problem.

Well, I'm not saying link-ups are always bad, not even that there's anything wrong with any link-ups (although some of them in all honesty can feel more than a little contrived). I mean, after all, everyone climbs what he or she likes best, right?

But perhaps you need to ask yourself whether the link-up you want to do adds quality, or simply quantity? What is it you're after?

Another question is whether these creations are really to be viewed as bouldering in its true sense. I'm sure most would agree, the essence of bouldering is power and to some extent, balance. The main difficulty in climbing a problem should, hence, be being able to perform the individual moves, and then link them together. By that I mean that endurance shouldn't be the deciding factor. If it is, the "problem" is actually closer to a route, where the challenge of "keeping the powder dry" is a more typical characteristic.

One of the three problems in the world to be graded 8C+, The wheel of life, is an endurance feast of more than 60 moves. Hell, most routes are a lot shorter than that!

The first ascender himself, Dai Koyamada, said, "this is not bouldering".

So, what is it then, and how should we grade it?

And although The wheel... is still somewhat extreme in its length, the trend towards longer and longer problems, at least in the upper grades, is clear to see.

This leads us to a question:

Should the question of using a rope or not really decide what grading system we use, rather than the characteristics of the climb? If a one-mover can be compared to a 65-move monster, and a five-meter route to one with 400 moves, why do we have separate grading systems at all?

Let's wait a bit before we get to the answer to that question.Why not use a little bit of backwards thinking?

In bouldering competitions today, no problem can be longer than 12 moves. The main reason for that is that the purpose of bouldering competitions is to decide who's the best boulderer. To do that, one has thought it wise to emulate what bouldering typically is like outside. And as the essence of the sport is power (ok, timing, balance and luck too), 30-movers aren?t allowed.

Wouldn't it be a good idea to draw a sort of line between what's bouldering and what's something else? I mean seriously, when a "problem" is 25 moves or more, can you honestly say it's not more about stamina than anything else? It's no longer a question of being able to execute the individual moves, not even about linking them, but, instead, about having the endurance to go all the way. Much in the same way as a route often has a red-point crux, which you do easily when you're fresh, but haven't got enough power left to do when you reach it from the ground.

If the difficulties you encounter are the same, shouldn't the same yardstick be used?

So, where does this, logically, lead us?

As far as I can see there are two possible solutions:

1)      We keep the two different grading scales, but instead of letting the rope draw the line, we separate between the scales by deciding what character the climb has. If it has a "route-character", i.e. stamina oriented, we give it a route-grade (I guess we'll have to call it something else though), and if it has a "boulder-character", i.e. move oriented, we give it a boulder grade. Most grades will, in this scenario, stay the same.

·        The wheel of life goes from 8C+ to 9a+.

·        Realization keeps the 9a+-grade

·        Hubble goes from 8c+ to 8B

·        Former 9a, The fly is now 8B

2)      We start using a unified grading-system, differentiating between route-, or boulder-style by simply using lowercase (a, b, c) respectively uppercase letters (A, B, C). In this scenario many grades must be changed, but it has the advantage of making it easier to compare difficulties.

·        The wheel of life goes from 8C+ to 9a+ and should thus be compared to Realization, 9a+

·        Hubble becomes an 8C+ comparable to Boogalagga an 8B that might end up as 8C or 8C+.

·        The fly goes back to 9A or perhaps 8C+.

Now some will inevitably argue that the problem of clipping must be considered. After all, it does make a route harder to climb than a long boulder of similar difficulty, right?

Well, yes of course, but on the other hand, isn't it the difficulty of the climbing we're supposed to be measuring?

Do you give a route a lower grade if you decide to take a chance and skip the difficult clip? Do you give it a higher grade if you climb it in bad conditions?

Didn't think so...

Same thing if you use a top-rope on a highball. Does it make the actual climbing any easier? Does the boulder suddenly become a route just because you don't hit the deck if you fall?