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INTERVIEWS

Wednesday, 9 October

Barbara Zangerl on her Alpine trilogy consecution

BARBARA ZANGERL on her Alpine trilogy consecution By Esteban Díez Fernández © Ignacio Sandoval Burón. Climbing 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider'.  © Klaus Dell'Orto © Ignacio Sandoval Burón. Please, tell us what type of route 'Des Kaisers Neue Kleider' is. Are this route's two 8b+ pitch…


INTERVIEWS

Friday, 13 September

Schaeli and Jasper trilogy at Eiger

All pics by Franke KretschmannSchaeli and Jasper writes free climbing history at Eiger, by Alvaro SusenaIn early August, Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli redpointed the Piola Ghilini Direttissima and then fulfilled a long time dream, to redpoint the three direttissima at the north face of Eiger. Th…


ANNA STÖHR

By Ignacio Sandoval Burón

In the isolation area right before competing in the bouldering final of the 2011 World Championships celebrated in Arco. 

Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Anna having some fun slack-lining during the party at the 2012 The North Face Kalymnos Festival.

 Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Competing in the bouldering final of the 2011 World Championships celebrated in Arco. 

Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Her reaction once she knew she was the 2011 bouldering World Champion. 

Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

Receiving the La Sportiva Competition Award during the Arco Rock Legends 2012.

Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón.

none;text-autospace:none">We had this interview with Anna when the bouldering World Cup season in which she had a spectacular performance (6 victories out of 7 events so far) had almost came to an end (only the last leg in Münich was left) and just when she returned home from Rocklands where she broke some standards with a couple of 8B’s sent. none;text-autospace:none">

Days after it, the austrian just confirmed her great shape with a new victory in the last World Cup event and with her second European Championship title.



First of all, congratulations for your last achievements in Rocklands as well as for the fabulous WC season you had.

- How long did you stay in Rocklands? Was it your first time?

I stayed from the 16th of July until the 9th of August in the Rocklands. It was my secondtime. My first trip was in 2009.




- Tell us a little bit more about those two 8B's you sent.

"The Power of One" is a beautiful boulder, and it is very powerful and not very long. It took me two days to finish "The Power of One". Whereas "TheVice" is a rather long problem and I needed more time to figure out the perfect beta for me. Ittook me four days to climb "The Vice". 




- Any other remarkable sends from you or Kili during this trip?

We climbed a lot of cool boulders which we have not climbed during our first trip. For me, e.g "Black Velvet", "The Shark", "Barracuda", and maaaany more...



-Any unfinished business by either of you?

In the Rocklands there are so many boulders and lots of potential, therefore there is always business to come back to :)



- I heard you guys are opening a new area in Rocklands... Is that true? Could you, please, tell us where it is, how many problems you have developed.

Yes it is true. It is around Kraaibos pass and we have opened around 50 problems on superb rock from 6a-8a+.



-You had a great 2013 World Cup season. Did you train more than previous years or was it the same as usual? How do you think that allthis training for comps has transferred into real rock performance?

I did not train more this year, but I have a lot of training experience as well as comp experience, so this definitely helps me a lot. I have always climbed a lot outside, since this gives me a lot of motivation. I do not think that you have to transfer the training to rock performance.  I go outside and have fun climbing, I love the sport and that is why I do it.




-Have you tried any 8B+ so far? If so, how did it go? If not, do you have any in mind?

No I have not.



- I think you'll assist to the TNF climbing festival in Kalymnos. I guess that's cause you liked it last year. How was it last year and what do you expect for this year's?

Last year's event was fun. For me it was also cool to return to Kalymnos after many many years. I spent a climbing holiday with my family in Kalymnos when I was 12 years old and it was interesting to see how much has changed since then. 




- What is your (Kili and you) plan for the rest of the year.

We'll compete in the European Championship in Eindhoven this weekend. In September we have time to travel, since university starts in Octo

ber. I do not know yet where exactly we'll be heading, but we will definitely stay in Europe this time.



Check Anna's nice website: www.anna-stoehr.at


Anna in one of the two 8B's she sent during her last trip to Rocklands, 'The Power of One'.

Pic: Reinhard Fichtinger.





INTERVIEWS

Monday, 2 September

Anna Stöhr

ANNA STÖHR By Ignacio Sandoval Burón In the isolation area right before competing in the bouldering final of the 2011 World Championships celebrated in Arco. Pic: Ignacio Sandoval Burón. Anna having some fun slack-lining during the party at the 2012 The North Face Kalymn…


INTERVIEWS

Monday, 26 August

Maximo Kausch beats the world record of 6000 summits in Andes

Maximo Kausch beats the world record of 6000 summits in Andes Máximo in the summit of 'Pular', extremely remote peak in Chile.  55th summit. One of the sharp 6000 m ridges in Bolivia. Inca ruins at 6730 m, Llullaillaco (Argentina). Ridge of Illampu (Bolivia). Bike fell in…


PRODUCT NEWS

Tuesday, 6 August

2013 Friedrichshafen Outdoor Fair

From July 10th and 14th 2013 the German city of Friedrichshafen held the Spring/Summer outdoor fair, being the European reference, 8a.nu was there.    Few spectacular news when it comes to climbing and bouldering. There’s a clear tendency towards lighter materials, thinner ropes and flas…


PRODUCT NEWS

Saturday, 27 July

Feria Outdoor de Friedrichshafen 2013

Entre los días 10 y 14 de este mes se celebró, en la ciudad alemana de Friedrichshafen‏, la feria de deportes outdoor o deportes al aire libre. Es la referencia europea en eventos de este tipo y 8a.nu estuvo allí. Pocas novedades espectaculares en lo que a escalada y boulder se refiere. Hay una t…


INTERVIEWS

Wednesday, 24 July

El Cap at arms strengh

El Cap at arms Strenghby Clement Perotti from Sandstones MediaOne morning while checking facebook, I saw a link to something that stopped me. It was about a lady planning to climb El Cap, without the use of your her feet. And to accomplish that, she needed support, so I cliked this link <a href="…


INTERVIEWS

Wednesday, 24 July

Wrongs and right about quickdraws

This is the quickdraw that the police showed to Tito's father.Picture published first by Grimper Magazine showing the wrong assembled quickdraw, the rubber string and the right assembled rubber string, but notice that the rubber string is placed at the wrong biner.2. Wrong assembled dog bone fixat…


INTERVIEWS

Friday, 19 July

Wrong and rights about quickdraws

In the aftermaths of the tragic accident of Tito Traversa, it has been a broad discussion on 8a.nu and other climbing forums about the whys and how of the quickdraw’s failure. In many cases, it seems to be some misunderstandings on the purpose of the rubber string attached to the sling. After have s…


INTERVIEWS

Friday, 19 July

Wrong and rights about quickdraws

This is the quick draw that the police shown to Titos father2. Wrong Assembled Dog Bone FixationPicture is from a Petzl safety manual for StringsIn the aftermaths of the tragic accident of Tito Traversa, it has been a broad discussion on 8a.nu and other climbing forums about the whys and how of the …