ARTICLES




Patrik Matros, Alexander Megos and Ludwig "Dicki" Korb
Patrick doing the FA of Archon 8b, the hardest trad route in Frankenjura. (c) Raimund Matros
What is the overall goal with the coaching/training?

Major goal for us is, to maintain a joyful attitude towards the sport. The psychological terminology calls it a high level of intrinsic motivation for climbing itself. This also means to support the self-development of the athlete in order to get him more and more emancipated and so called self-determined. Last but not least we do our best to prevent the athlete of injuries due to balanced training. 

What are you best advice to get stronger and to get more endurance?
Well, at first I have to clean up with some misbelief: Getting stronger has nothing to do with top secret training programs or the one and only exercise which gets you in shape. It is a process where you learn more and more about your body and your individual response to training exercises. Also it is a question of volition. Some major rules are:

-       Train minimum 60% discipline-specific, the best strength in your forearms is worthless without the ability to transfer it on complex movements, which sportclimbing or bouldering consists of. On the other side train your antagonists (5-10% of your training) with high intensity  (link: http://vimeo.com/24776832). This will also help you to get more specific-strength, because of your muscles working in a more functional way.

-       To get stronger: take a complete break between the load and then set 110% will in it.

-       To get more endurance: never take a complete break between the loads and learn to climb with pumped forearms.

How do you see climbing performances develop the coming 10 years?
It’s not easy to give an concrete answer. The way I see is, that the base of the pyramid of performance-oriented climbers is going to broaden. More talented persons will get into the sport and performances will be rise. In my opinion more horizontal than vertical, but certainly there’s space upwards, too. Especially the onsight and flash level will rise as well fast ascents of hard routes and numerous ascents of them within a day from one climber. Overall more climbers will onsight/flash 9a and some climbers will push the limit to a 9a+ onsight/flash in the next decade. It’s the result from more specific training routines which start in an early developmental stage of the athletes. Climbing is going to get more professional. As the complexity rises, athletes more and more will need partners to market and manage themselves. If climbing gets an olympic sport, a new dimension in professionalism will rise, with negative and positive aspects for the sport.

More countries, which are a blank spot on the climbing map will get into the sport and into Competitions like the World Cup and the World Championships. There will be an upswing for performance-oriented training in the youth sector and associations have to get along with it.

What are the plans for Megos in 2013?
Everything what comes is kind of an add on. He achieved much more than expected. No injury is the most important thing for us.


What it is all about with your Training DVD?
We noticed that there’s little information in detailed descriptions about balanced strength training for climbers. Our philosophy is, that you have to train your antagonists in a complex and intensive way to prevent injuries. It’s remarkable, that our athletes gained more specific strength due to this exercises, too. Together with my counterpart Ludwig (Dicki) Korb and Hannes Huch (professional filmmaker and owner of a bouldering gym) we decided to start a video and book project. We extended the subjects a little bit, and you will find specific exercises for climbing in it, too. Also we invited some top climbers and asked them about training. As a bonus, you can see some training footage of  Wolfgang Güllich, commented by his former professor and coach. All this will be released in fall 2013, not only in German, but also in English language.

More information under www.gimmekraft.com



Boreal's DIABOLO

Comfort. That's the very first word which comes to mind when we think of these climbing shoes. Not for nothing, the Diabolo and its version for women, Diabola, belong to a category called 'Intermediate' by Boreal; this is something between 'Comfort' (the basic ones) and 'Performance' (the top range ones). We have used them for training, warming up, hard climbing, multi-pitch routes, etc. and they have performed quite well. This is an all-terrain model which serves well for everything. With no spectacular performance, they've got a good behaviour.

The rubber they use is the new FS-QUATTRO, which means they have the latest and most innovative rubber from a company which has been more than 30 years developing their own rubbers for climbing shoes. Its thickness varies from 4 to 4.6 mm., depending on the size you choose.



There are several details that we like in these shoes: two well-placed rear pull-on tabs, a super comfy padded tongue, two simple but effective velcro closures, some shock absorption on the heel, maximum quality leather and a not-very-aggressive but well constructed toe profile. They have worked well smearing both on those slabby routes with infamous foot holds as well as on those highly frequented crags with dreadful, slippery sloppy rubber marks which puts your foot work ability to the test.



These shoes have no interior lining which means that they stretch more than those with it. Consequently, bear this in mind when choosing your size if your feet tend to sweat a lot, etc. We have tried them in a size and a half less than our regular size and we haven't suffered too much. 


What we've liked the least is the heel, not comparable to those specificaly designed for hardcore heel-hooking, which is something normal for a model not primarily conceived for this usage.


Axiom Jacket


Outdoor Research makes a comeback with yet another quality proven item, not in vain the Axiom Jacket has been awarded Gear of the Year 2012 by outside Magazine.



This waterproof third layer commonly known as gore, consists of GORE-TEX Active technology, which is half the mass of the standard GORE-TEX  membrane with a much higher breathable rate than its predecessor. This is very evident because the jacket barely weighs 382 g, for us the most noticeable characteristic..


 

Although designed for aerobic activities in harsh conditions such as alpinism and multi-pitch routes, we should always carry a waterproof jacket in our rucksack especially in Spring because when you least expect it you'll be making good use of it i.e; for that unexpected shower,  for that annoying wind that suddenly creeps up on you when you're belaying, etc. Common circumstances at this time of the year. Definitely an item we will surely miss if we forget it at home..


When we speak of this Seattle brand, it is very important for us to mention its well cared for attention to detail which makes this garment an outstanding item; full adjustable hood that fits over helmet, small hole on the front pocket for the use of your mp3 headphones, hand pockets set above hip belt or harness, maximum mobility in the sleeves, can be stuffed into one pocket, etc.


This jacket like other OR items are designed and tested in collaboration with  UIAGM,  therefore its quality and finish is much more achieved. These guys are working really hard  to be among the best in the mountain clothing business.



BARBARA RAUDNER about 'Mind Control', 8c (+) in Oliana

Pic: schroedel.at


 

Pic: Hannes Raudner-Hiebler Photography.

Pic: Hannes Raudner-Hiebler Photography.

- How much/long did it take you?

I started working Mind Control during our trip in December, my friend Daila Ojeda encouraged me for it. I was immediately psyched for this amazing line! 

In February, I was already super close to send, the day when Adam Ondra did la Dura Dura 9b+ and Andrea Cartas sent Fish Eye 8c. After I fell a few times on the very last moves before going home to Austria again.

I returned in March, but at that time the top tufa was totally wet (and stayed so for weeks), the weather tested me and I needed a lot of patience until the route dried.





- How did you feel once you clipped the anchor?

It was such a big satisfaction to clip this anchor, I was totally stoked!! Also it was very nice to celebrate this event after with a great community of friends who were happy for me too.    




- What was the hardest part you had to tickle with in the route?

For me, the hardest part was the link of the very small holds just before the first rest in the middle of the route, the bottom crux section. You have to climb these 16 pumpy moves very concentrated and fast. The powerful crux cross move near the top suited me very well.




- I think you've been spending quite a few time climbing in Spain this last year... Did you take off your job? How does it feel just climbing? How do you like Spain in general and climbing in special in comparison with Austria? What are the crags you've visited so far and what's your favourite? Do you plan to visit any other areas?

Yes, I have spent quite a few time in Spain since last year, because Hannes and I really love this country.

In the past I have been working 17 years for the European Commission, in the Public Relations Section, very interesting but also quite stressful. In November I quit my job, I wanted to reduce my working hours, but unfortunately this was not possible.

You have only one life, so you have to enjoy it and to live in the present! Actually I am climbing a lot, which feels really great, besides I started to work as a free-lance teacher for climbing and for foreign languages (Italian, French).

Things in Spain run a bit slower when compared to Austria ... I like living in both cultures. The climbing community in Spain is very welcoming and heartfelt, this is really amazing! Also there are so many strong Spanish (and off course from other nations) female rock climbers in that region with whom to climb is very inspiring ... Daila Ojeda, Andrea Cartas, Teresa Troya Gil, Berta Martin, Marieta Cartrò ... just to mention a few. The atmosphere at the rock was always full of positive energy with these great ladies.

Spanish rock seems endless and the routes, I climbed so far, are all 5 stars quality. Thanks to all the persons who bolted these lines. I have spent most of time in Oliana (which is my favorite) and climbed also in Margalef, Terradets, Tres Ponts, Perles, Santa Linya and Rodellar.

This summer I would like to visit the area around Asturias or the Basque Country, also I want to go to Andalucia next winter, but I do not yet have fixed plans. I just want to enjoy life, rock climbing with good friends around, challenging nice projects @climbing (as well as @working), and having fun!!


Barbara Raudner & Daila Ojeda. Pic: Hannes Raudner-Hiebler




Code of Ethics in the 8a Forum - Swedish translation

At 8a.nu we strive to have a pleasant and mature tone on the comments and the debate in general. Below is the Code of Ethics we started to apply from April 2013. To be able to post a comment or to start a forum thread it’s required that you are a registered member and you are logged in. You may register as a member by filling out a form under the New member button. Do please enter your real name. The use of clearly fictional personal details may lead to a ban of your membership.

1 Ethics
These rules are general and largely common sense.

1.1 Be friendly and respectful in your posts. Ask yourself if what you are posting is actually constructive.

1.2 Statements that may be considered insulting or offensive are not allowed. You are welcome to argue and discuss, but do not insult others. Attacks on ethnicity, sex, gender, religion, etc. are strictly prohibited.

1.3 If you have a personal issue with someone, please contact them through the Messages function instead of carrying out a private discussion in the forum.

1.4 Being provocative just to annoy others (aka trolling) is not allowed.


2 Think about how you write.

2.1 Thread topics/titles should be written simply and directly relate to the
content.

2.2 Do not create multiple threads about the same topic. If a moderator has locked a thread, do not create a new thread
on the same topic.

2.3 Write consistently and in a way that everyone can understand. English is preferred but you may write in
another language. Use of irony, word-play and/or slang is often lost on non-English speakers, so please make
sure the point of your response is clear.


3 Report offensives posts
To report and offensive post, please contact an editor or moderator.


4 Signatures and avatars

4.1 Avatars must not depict something offensive or inappropriate.

4.2 Avatars and signatures are personal.
If you wish to use another user’s signature or avatar please contact
them first.



5 Offences

It is not allowed to call for criminal actions or spread incitement to criminal acts. All content in this site is governed by Swedish law.



6 Marketing and sales

The forum should not be used for marketing or sale or any related activity. Would you or your company like to advertise in 8a.nu contact the editors.



7 Users

An individual may not register more than one user and it is not allowed to register a new one if the old one is banned.



8 Complains

If you have any complains about how editors have acted relating to a comment, post or forum thread, please contact us directly, do not create a thread in the thread.



Moderators

Moderators are there to help you and make the community as nice as possible, but their role is also to ensure that the rules hereby are followed. To facilitate the work of the moderator, you can report violations by contacting the editors.

Moderators have the right to lock, delete, or modify a thread that does not comply with these rules or otherwise deemed inappropriate.



Rights

8a.nu claim no ownership of user generated information. By posting text, images or other media, you are giving however 8a.nu unlimited permission to globally and royalty free reproduce, adapt and publish the material.



User Generated Information

Anyone can register a user account. All posts in the forum, comment on articles and galleries are user-generated information and does not reflect 8a.nu's views or positions.



Privacy

8a.nu follows the Swedish law as stated in the Privacy Act.

Terms and conditions are subject to change. If this happens an announcement of the change will be published in the forum.

Author of the article: Patrick Matros who has been the trainer of Alexander Megos for five years.
From the training video: http://vimeo.com/24776832
(c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron
Training in climbing – a general perspective

In every sport, where peak performances are achieved, the question is, which specific training is leading to success. This is the same in sport climbing/bouldering and often a topic in discussions under trainers and actors in this sort of game. Discussion rises again, as Alexander Megos, one of our athletes, has set one of the most important benchmarks in sport climbing, to onsight a hard route as possible, a piece higher.

Training as a complex process
In the following we will provide an insight into our work as trainers and coaches and show, that there cannot be the big secret about training in sport climbing/bouldering.

Training is defined as a systematic and goal oriented process, which depends partly on scientifically proven principles, partly on principles which are based on experience. Training is also a very complex process with several factors which influence development. Considering training, for many people physical aspects like strength and muscular endurance come in mind. Others place emphasis on technical skills. Some think about the mental aspects of performance.

But there’s another often neglected aspect. Training with a trainer is also working on relationships. The athlete has to accept the trainer und his advices with understanding the reason for them, not just executing them because of external pressure. In addition to that, the trainer is a kind of role-model for the athlete. This requires a responsible attitude on the part of the trainer. On the other hand, the trainer has to appreciate his athlete and give him a certain (in most of the cases a constantly rising) level of self-determination for planning his training. Last but not least, the trainer has to consider influences from parents, friends and idols on the athlete as well.

Arriving at a high level of self-determination, based on many years of experience, the athlete knows pretty well what to do, to get into top shape. Sometimes training is done intuitionally. In this stadium, the trainer’s job is, to get the athlete aware of a high responsibility for his actions but it is also important to reflect the athlete’s actions from another point of view to prevent processes the athlete is not aware of. The trainer’s role changes more into one of a mentor’s. Alexander’s Road Trip to the U.S. is a good example for that.

In such a case we keep in frequent touch with the athletes (via E-Mail and also phone calls). It’s important for us, to be in the know of the team’s mood on location, the motivation of the athletes and their physical constitution. Thereby we work partially with mental anchors, because a detailed counseling is difficult. If it is necessary, we also monitor the media coverage and give some feedback in the case of need. We advise the athlete not to do this constantly, because he might be influenced in a negative way.

Trainer and athlete – working together

Is the trainer getting into the act with the athlete, he has to consider physiological, psychological and educational aspects. Concerning the physical aspects, we work with strengths/weakness profiles, based on guideline interviews and specific fitness tests. Also the mental training is important. Often it is underestimated. The athlete gets knowledge and skills to regulate his affects and strategies to follow his goals over a long time. Eventually a philosophy is a must-have for a trainer, which is the background for a long-term cooperation with the athlete and a base for some abstract objectives (which probably will be achieved). In our opinion, the topic of these objectives cannot be a victory in a competition or the accomplishment of a very hard route. The key objective for us as a trainer is to provide support for the personality development of the athlete, whose self-concept is designed pretty much with topics of climbing. Is the work with the athlete finished (not our friendship), the most important thing for us is, that the athlete is still happy to climb, whatever he decides to do with this activity.

Long-term achievement-motivation is only possible, when the trainer supports the athlete, to hold the balance between goal-oriented cognitive and emotional motivation. Fun and enjoyment as well as persistence and self-regulation have to be in balance to achieve peak performance.

Thus, it cannot be the aim, to produce so called “wonder childs”. Due to their lightheartedness, their ideal physiologic preconditions (power-weight-relationship, reduced lactate-acid production and good anatomically preconditions like little fingers there will be fantastic results with the right training in a short time. The athlete often has to pay for it with injuries according to a deficit in compensatory and balanced training. Often the trainer loses the focus on the personality development and the motivational balance, too. When the progress stops and the athlete gets to a barrier, often a drop-out, quitting the sport is the consequence. These barriers could be injuries, a mental block getting to a new difficulty, a plateau in physical condition due to habituation effects, but also a development stage like adolescence. Supporting the athlete getting through these barriers we consider as our most important challenge. Therefore you need special knowledge about physiological and psychological aspects. These barriers are not definable in determined within a certain age range. They only can be conceived and resolved under a systemic perspective.

The work with Alexander

Now to Alexander: He started sport climbing at the age of 6. At this important age especially technical skills are developed, which form a basis for important proceedings later on. When he came to us, he was already at 13 and his hardest route was “only” 8a. He had won some regional competitions and was the Bavarian champion of his age. We recognized pretty fast his physically and mentally potential (it’s very important to consider both). Due to our philosophy, refusing fast progress as possible with all the mentioned negative aspects, we started a very fundamental strategy for training/coaching, based on profound and frequent strengths/weakness profiles. This prevents the athlete also to hit his first barrier too quick. We imparted Alexander tools, to organize his training routines in a step by step more self-determined way and to get more and more knowledge about his body.  A second enormous significant aspect is, to train the antagonist muscles in a variable and intensive way.  This helps to prevent injuries and shortens phases of recovery. Beyond that, the athlete develops a very balanced physique, which enables him to train more intensive.

You can see some examples here: http://vimeo.com/24776832 It seems that we found an optimal solution to prevent one of the biggest fears of a trainer: fast habituation and stagnation of performance. After Alexander finishes his school with a general qualification for university entrance, another step had to be done. Alexander decided upon the advice of us, to get a year off, traveling and climbing around the world, with only a few starts at competitions. Very important: Not with us, with some friends! At this point, our coaching primarily consisted in mentoring mental and motivational aspects of his training/climbing. Frequent communication – nowadays no problem – is the key to success, but not to monitor a rigid training routine! We are happy, that Alexander hasn’t reached his next barrier yet.

Last but not least we would give some advice to the young and motivated athletes out there. Go climbing with dedication and work hard for your goals, but don’t take it too serious! There will be other athletes growing up and other winners in the competitions will replace you. If your personality is only focused on something like “I have to be the best” coming down back to earth could be pretty frustrating J

Who we are:

Patrick Matros, working as a scientist (sports and educational science) at university and Ludwig (Dicki) Korb, working as an educationist at the institutional youth care service. We are trainers/coaches at the federal center of sport climbing and bouldering in Erlangen-Nuremberg. Referring to this, we have published some articles in specialist magazines.

In fall 2013 we will release a book with DVD with many exercises for intelligent and balanced strength-training starring Sasha DiGiulian, Mélissa le Nevé, Bernd Zangerl, Babsi Zangerl and Fred Nicole. The DVD will include also not published training footage of the legendary Wolfgang Güllich and some expert-interviews. Stay tuned for Gimme Kraft! (http://gimmekraft.com/ )

Contact: [email protected]

Author of the article: Patrick Matros who has been the trainer of Alexander Megos for five years.
From the training video: http://vimeo.com/24776832
(c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron
Training in climbing – a general perspective

In every sport, where peak performances are achieved, the question is, which specific training is leading to success. This is the same in sport climbing/bouldering and often a topic in discussions under trainers and actors in this sort of game. Discussion rises again, as Alexander Megos, one of our athletes, has set one of the most important benchmarks in sport climbing, to onsight a hard route as possible, a piece higher.

Training as a complex process
In the following we will provide an insight into our work as trainers and coaches and show, that there cannot be the big secret about training in sport climbing/bouldering.

Training is defined as a systematic and goal oriented process, which depends partly on scientifically proven principles, partly on principles which are based on experience. Training is also a very complex process with several factors which influence development. Considering training, for many people physical aspects like strength and muscular endurance come in mind. Others place emphasis on technical skills. Some think about the mental aspects of performance.

But there’s another often neglected aspect. Training with a trainer is also working on relationships. The athlete has to accept the trainer and his advices with understanding the reason for them, not just executing them because of external pressure. In addition to that, the trainer is a kind of role-model for the athlete. This requires a responsible attitude on the part of the trainer. On the other hand, the trainer has to appreciate his athlete and give him a certain (in most of the cases a constantly rising) level of self-determination for planning his training. Last but not least, the trainer has to consider influences from parents, friends and idols on the athlete as well.

Arriving at a high level of self-determination, based on many years of experience, the athlete knows pretty well what to do, to get into top shape. Sometimes training is done intuitionally. In this stadium, the trainer’s job is, to get the athlete aware of a high responsibility for his actions but it is also important to reflect the athlete’s actions from another point of view to prevent processes the athlete is not aware of. The trainer’s role changes more into one of a mentor’s. Alexander’s Road Trip to the U.S. is a good example for that.

In such a case we keep in frequent touch with the athletes (via E-Mail and also phone calls). It’s important for us, to be in the know of the team’s mood on location, the motivation of the athletes and their physical constitution. Thereby we work partially with mental anchors, because a detailed counseling is difficult. If it is necessary, we also monitor the media coverage and give some feedback in the case of need. We advise the athlete not to do this constantly, because he might be influenced in a negative way.

Trainer and athlete – working together

Is the trainer getting into the act with the athlete, he has to consider physiological, psychological and educational aspects. Concerning the physical aspects, we work with strengths/weakness profiles, based on guideline interviews and specific fitness tests. Also the mental training is important. Often it is underestimated. The athlete gets knowledge and skills to regulate his affects and strategies to follow his goals over a long time. Eventually a philosophy is a must-have for a trainer, which is the background for a long-term cooperation with the athlete and a base for some abstract objectives (which probably will be achieved). In our opinion, the topic of these objectives cannot be a victory in a competition or the accomplishment of a very hard route. The key objective for us as a trainer is to provide support for the personality development of the athlete, whose self-concept is designed pretty much with topics of climbing. Is the work with the athlete finished (not our friendship), the most important thing for us is, that the athlete is still happy to climb, whatever he decides to do with this activity.

Long-term achievement-motivation is only possible, when the trainer supports the athlete, to hold the balance between goal-oriented cognitive and emotional motivation. Fun and enjoyment as well as persistence and self-regulation have to be in balance to achieve peak performance.

Thus, it cannot be the aim, to produce so called “wonder childs”. Due to their lightheartedness, their ideal physiologic preconditions (power-weight-relationship, reduced lactate-acid production and good anatomically preconditions like little fingers there will be fantastic results with the right training in a short time. The athlete often has to pay for it with injuries according to a deficit in compensatory and balanced training. Often the trainer loses the focus on the personality development and the motivational balance, too. When the progress stops and the athlete gets to a barrier, often a drop-out, quitting the sport is the consequence. These barriers could be injuries, a mental block getting to a new difficulty, a plateau in physical condition due to habituation effects, but also a development stage like adolescence. Supporting the athlete getting through these barriers we consider as our most important challenge. Therefore you need special knowledge about physiological and psychological aspects. These barriers are not definable in determined within a certain age range. They only can be conceived and resolved under a systemic perspective.

The work with Alexander

Now to Alexander: He started sport climbing at the age of 6. At this important age especially technical skills are developed, which form a basis for important proceedings later on. When he came to us, he was already at 13 and his hardest route was “only” 8a. He had won some regional competitions and was the Bavarian champion of his age. We recognized pretty fast his physically and mentally potential (it’s very important to consider both). Due to our philosophy, refusing fast progress as possible with all the mentioned negative aspects, we started a very fundamental strategy for training/coaching, based on profound and frequent strengths/weakness profiles. This prevents the athlete also to hit his first barrier too quick. We imparted Alexander tools, to organize his training routines in a step by step more self-determined way and to get more and more knowledge about his body.  A second enormous significant aspect is, to train the antagonist muscles in a variable and intensive way.  This helps to prevent injuries and shortens phases of recovery. Beyond that, the athlete develops a very balanced physique, which enables him to train more intensive.

You can see some examples here: http://vimeo.com/24776832 It seems that we found an optimal solution to prevent one of the biggest fears of a trainer: fast habituation and stagnation of performance. After Alexander finishes his school with a general qualification for university entrance, another step had to be done. Alexander decided upon the advice of us, to get a year off, traveling and climbing around the world, with only a few starts at competitions. Very important: Not with us, with some friends! At this point, our coaching primarily consisted in mentoring mental and motivational aspects of his training/climbing. Frequent communication – nowadays no problem – is the key to success, but not to monitor a rigid training routine! We are happy, that Alexander hasn’t reached his next barrier yet.

Last but not least we would give some advice to the young and motivated athletes out there. Go climbing with dedication and work hard for your goals, but don’t take it too serious! There will be other athletes growing up and other winners in the competitions will replace you. If your personality is only focused on something like “I have to be the best” coming down back to earth could be pretty frustrating J

Who we are:

Patrick Matros, working as a scientist (sports and educational science) at university and Ludwig (Dicki) Korb, working as an educationist at the institutional youth care service. We are trainers/coaches at the federal center of sport climbing and bouldering in Erlangen-Nuremberg. Referring to this, we have published some articles in specialist magazines.

In fall 2013 we will release a book with DVD with many exercises for intelligent and balanced strength-training starring Sasha DiGiulian, Mélissa le Nevé, Bernd Zangerl, Babsi Zangerl and Fred Nicole. The DVD will include also not published training footage of the legendary Wolfgang Güllich and some expert-interviews. Stay tuned for Gimme Kraft! (http://gimmekraft.com/ )

Contact: [email protected]

Team Hörst (Cameron, Lisa, Jonathan, and Eric) at Miguel's Pizza, Red River Gorge, KY.
Jonathan powering up the relentlessly steep 40 Ounces of Justice (7c+), Red River Gorge.
Mom belays 9-year-old Jon on a 7b at Maple Canyon, UT, summer 2012.
Cameron (2) throwing a pass as Quarterback of his championship football team in Pennsylvania.
Cameron climbing his 3rd 8b+ at age 11, Private Halfenheimer, Ten Sleep Canyon, WY.
Eric (age 49) training in the family home gym. Team Horst trains here 3 to 4 days per week.

Eric on the 1987 FA of Diamond Life, the first 7c+ at the world famous New River Gorge. Between 1986 and 2002, Eric established more than 200 routes here.


Cameron climbing the uber-steep The Madness (8a+), RRG. This 38m route overhangs nearly 20m.





Eric Hörst, author of training for climbing books with worldwide sales over 300,000 and father of two sons 10 & 12 who both have done a 8b (+) gives us some insight on kids progress. 

8a: Your sons, Cameron (12) and Jonathan (10), are world-class climbers for their age—what advice can you give parents on how to start climbing with children?
Climbing with children demands a completely different mindset than going climbing sans kids. The only way a child will have fun--and fall in love with climbing--is if they physically engage in a lot of climbing (as opposed to standing around and watching mom & dad climb all day). This means parents must make their own projects secondary, and spend much of the day setting up routes that the kids can enjoy, experience, and learn from. This means mom and dad will spent much more time belaying than climbing. I feel sad when I see parents bring their children to the crag only to let them sit and play in the dirt while the parents climb all day—this approach will likely teach a child to hate climbing. My wife and I, of course, aspire to climb a few routes each day—and on a good day send a project too!—but we put the kids ahead of ourselves. Rule #1: Kids get pumped first! (Adults climb while kids rest.)

8a: What about travels with children?
Climbing is a family activity for us, so we travel extensively with the boys. It takes extra effort and it can be stressful at times, but it’s also very rewarding for both the kids and parents to travel to new crags and experience many different kinds of climbing. In terms of learning climbing skills, these travels are one of the keys to “hard climbing kids” (good coaching is critical, too). Climbing indoors and at just one or two outdoor crags is very limiting in terms of imparting new skills and developing good technique. Although weather, time, and finances limit us, we strive to take our boys to new climbing areas every season—we make it a point to do some trad climbing each summer as well (the boys have already climbed at places like Yosemite, Devil’s Tower,  and the Gunks). There’s emerging research that there’s a “skill window” between the age of 8 and 12 during which kids can best develop motor skills, wire the brain, and—perhaps most important—influence genetic traits, such as muscle fiber type, enzyme and hormone production for speed and strength, etc. Doing the right things during this brief window, in terms of training and experience, appears to be a huge factor in shaping the future adult athlete. (Once the window closes you may never catch up.) It’s a rich subject that I can’t really expand on in a short answer…but the concept helps us understand the importance of youth climbing experience and why becoming an “Adam Ondra or Alex Megos kind of climber” is only possible given very early exposure to the sport.  Rule #2: Expose your child to different types of climbing and travel as often as possible—these trips are rich experiences that will yield many wonderful lifelong memories for child and parent alike!

8a: What age did your boys begin climbing?
We have a large home training room, so it was natural for the boys to start playing around on the wall soon after they mastered walking. At age four, they begin doing some easy outdoor toprope climbs a few days per month, in additional to playing around on the home wall a few days per week. Both boys did their first outdoor sport leads before their seventh birthday. Per the “skill window” concept above, I made a point to bring them on more travels and expose them to many different types of climbing movement beginning at age 8. This is also the right age to begin on a somewhat targeted—though not over-the-top—training program to nurture their natural climbing talent. I must stress that we also exposed the boys to many other sporting activities so as to make them as “physically literate” as possible before the closing of the skill window. Both Cam and Jon ski in the winter and play American football during the Fall season, so they have a few months break from high-frequency climbing. I feel that a climbing off-season and some involvement in another sport is important—age 10 is much too young to train year-round like a pro climber!  Rule #3: At age 8 to 12, begin to broaden your child’s climbing skill set and get them good coaching; but also expose them to several other sporting activities—who knows your child might be the next David Beckham!

8a: So then, what do your 8b+ climbing sons do in terms of training? 
If I told you…then I’d have to kill you! Seriously, since my boys are so young it’s been my training goal to build  “sound, well-rounded athletes”, not world-class climbers. Again, it’s my opinion that single-sport specialization is best delayed until the teenage years. That said, developing climbing skill (mental, technical, and physical) demands a significant amount of time spent climbing. Toward this end, we train on the home wall for about two hours, three or four days per week; when weather and time allows, we climb outsides a couple weekends per month.  Since Cam and Jon both play football, we also do two football training workouts per week. These one-hour sessions involve lots of push-oriented exercises, jumping, and sprinting, and fortuitously, these workouts serve them well as “antagonist training” for  climbing. The result, I hope, will be a very balanced musculature and reduced risk of the climbing injuries common to the adolescent growth spurt and hard-climbing adult years ahead of them. Most important: we keep the training fun with various climbing games and training metric challenges (sadly, most now involve the boys kicking their coaching dad’s arse!).
You can read more about youth training in an article I wrote for DPM last year.  Rule #4: Youth training and climbing must always be fun—there should be no crying when the child fails on a route! Parents should mandate a “break from climbing” if the child begins to take things too seriously or begins to feel like training is a job.


8a: How much more progress can we see for the future kids?
As for the future for 10 year olds...perhaps some tall youngster will eventually do 8c at age 10, but reach is certainly a limiting constraint. The Red River Gorge is made for kid climbers, since there are often small holds and intermediates (that an adult struggles with or might even skip) and the routes tend to be endurance oriented rather than powerful, although there are certainly exceptions. But when the current generation of kids crushers (and there are many, both in the US and abroad) hit their growth spurt (age 13 - 16) anything is possible...and I imagine one of these kids will someday soon beat Adam Ondra's record for youngest 9a+.

8a: What is your next plan and what do you hope for your sons?
This summer we'll climb throughout the western US...and next summer hopefully climb in Europe. Ultimately, I hope we can continue to explore and experience the vertical world as a family, meeting many people along the way and sharing in the spirit of climbing. Long-term, I hope that Cameron and Jonathan will remain passionate about climbing and become "climbers for life" (as I am). Of course, I hope they will also come to excel in other aspects of life. Climbing equips us with powerful mental skills that can be leveraged to excel in other aspects of life...and so I hope my boys will learn to wield the power of climbing, both on and off the rock!

JOE KINDER

By Ignacio Sandoval Burón

After some time observing Joe Kinder's prolific activity in the social media, reading his blog where he narrates his life as a pro climber together with descriptive pictures taken by himself and watching his videos, I've come to the conclusion that he's one of the most professional climbers when it comes to transmiting the "always psyched" message with which he always signs his e-mails, etc.

His enthusiasm for everything around our activity is exuded in each and every one of his creations which together with a ticklist that includes 9a's in sport climbing and 8B's in bouldering makes him one of the climbers that better instills everybody with a lifestyle that is admired and envied by most of us.

Joe climbing climbing one of his creations 'Joe Blau', 8c+ in Oliana. Pic: Carlos Padilla.

Colette training her shoulders with a driller. Pic: Joe Kinder.

Nice pic of the couple climbing in Oliana by Carlos Padilla.

Joe on 'Bunda Ja Fora', 9a in Acephale (Canada). Pic: Colette Mc Inerney.

Another shot of Joe in the same Oliana's route, 'Joe Blau'. Pic: Carlos Padilla.

Joe putting some bolts. Pic: Colette Mc Inerney.

One more in 'Joe Blau' in Oliana. Pic: Carlos Padilla.


The MAN by Colette Mc Inerney.




- What's so special about Spain?

We seem to visit Spain each year. Sometimes even twice a year! We have simply fallen in love with it.  I think what I am drawn to in Catalunya the most is the people. They are some of the most welcoming and heartfelt humans on earth. There’s no ego here and I love that immensely.  The style and variety of climbing here is the best in the world and I am constantly challenged because of all the new route development. When you add the stimulation of learning a new language and the cultural aspects you get the full package of a place I call heaven.

- And apart from climbing? What cultural differences have you noticed between Spain/Catalunya and USA? What things would you import from the USA to Spain and vice versa?

The biggest difference I notice between the US and Spain would be the pace of life. Things here run a lot slower when compared to the US.   It feels like there’s a lesser sense of urgency sometimes. In the US you can do anything at any time of day.  Like, anything! Businesses are always open and everything seems super convenient. That being said, I’ve really learned to enjoy the tranquillo pace of life here in Spain. There’s definitely a place for both types of paces in life, and I’m happy to be able to enjoy both. 

I would definitely import Mexican food, fast Internet, cheap gas, and micro brew beers from the USA.  These are definitely the things I miss most! From Spain I would bring ALL OF THE ROCK, tufas, Dani Andrada, pastries, wine, and the Spaniard’s appreciation of life.

- I've heard you and Colette are learning Spanish... How is it going? Have you experienced any progress? Did you study it while you were in school or just started with it now? Is that a first step in coming to live in Spain?

I think it’s definitely helped to start with a base. Colette and I did take Spanish in high school, but that was a long time ago.  Studying here has been great, but at the same time the most important thing is to be immersed and not to be around English speaking people too often.  We have had a lot guests here from the USA and it’s really easy to get into the habit of only speaking English.  Luckily Colette and I both have friends who we are able to speak with. They are very patient with us and this is key.  My buddy Dave Graham keeps telling me to just speak with la gente de la calle and this is true for forcing yourself to learn.  You just have to keep challenging yourself.  I do believe you should speak some of the language before you visit a country as it shows respect as a visitor. 

- What other areas apart from Catalunya have you visited in Spain so far and what are your favourites?

Catalunya is our favorite for sure.  I have been to the Costa Blanca, Cuenca, Rodellar and a few other spots. But surely this is our favorite as now we have a great community of friends, never ending projects, and at this point we feel at home here.

- If I'm not wrong you experienced a change in your climbing lifestyle in respect to bolting after knowing Dani Andrada... Is that right? If so, what did you find so appealing in that and what areas have you helped to develop in The States?

There are climbers that inspire me on a different level and Dani is one of them.  Dani Andrada is someone who I admire for his commitment, love and pure drive for everything involved in climbing.  Dani is what we call a “lifer” in climbing and isn’t about showboating or being some goofy sponsor puppet.  He loves climbing in every way and it’s obvious when you meet him.  He is an utter fanatic and this is something I identify with.  I love rock climbing more than anything and seeing someone else so outwardly stoked is awesome to me.  He bolts because he loves it...  It’s the same for me.  He climbs because he loves it more than anything… same for me.  If Dani were poor and with nothing he would still be climbing… Same for me

- In your webpage you write that you observe and look up to Dave Graham and Chris Sharma. What is special about each of them? What differences and similarities do you find between them? Is there any other climber out there that you admire?

Dave and Chris have always been around since I started climbing.  I met and started climbing with Dave when we were pretty young and just starting, so a lot of my ethics and principles have been obtained from Dave.  Dave is another person who shows utter love for climbing and is a pioneer of the sport.  No one has put up as many hard boulder problems all over the world as he has, and his drive and energy are contagious.  The dude is one of my favorite people to climb with and one of my favorite people on the planet.

Chris is someone who I look up to in so many ways.  He is an insane climber and very gifted.  I personally believe that climbing is something that is just innate for someone like Chris. When you watch him climb it’s obvious he was made to do it.  He is more motivating to climb with than most people I know, and at the same time so mellow and grounded.  Chris has a lot of traits I wish I had in my character, like not being fazed by the little annoyances in life.  He takes things in stride so well and I think this transfers into his climbing well. 

Dave and Chris both have been huge inspirations in my climbing life, and always will be. I am inspired with unique styles, energy and those who are visionaries.

- How do you make your living out of climbing? Videos, webpage, etc? Or is it just because you're such a good climber? Is it easier to make a living as a climber in the USA than in Spain?

It’s been a long road creating a sustainable life as a climber. It was never anything that just happened over night. I have been climbing for 18 years and working with sponsors for 15. So I have a long history with many of the companies that I work with and even longer history with the outdoor industry as a whole. Over the past 7 years I have also supplemented my income with making videos for sponsors and videos about climbing. I’m lucky to say that I live my dream and make money from it as well.

I don’t believe it’s “easy” to make a living as a climber anywhere. I will say I think the requirements and obligations for sponsored athletes in the US are different than in Europe.

- In Spain we don't know much about your girlfriend although I've heard she's quite a strong climber. Could you provide us with some hard facts about her, or better, why don't you ask her to introduce herself?

Colette is my partner and my true love.  She is probably the most supportive person in my life and is also my favorite climbing partner.  She is a strong climber for sure and is well respected in the USA.  She has now climbed her first 8b and is working on 2 more plus an 8b+.  She is someone who keeps me grounded, challenges me, and encourages our crazy lifestyle to the point that it doesn’t even feel strange anymore.  Wherever Colette is I am home.

- What importance do you give to having a climbing girlfriend and at what extent is she a support in your career?

She is my partner in climbing as well in our business pursuits.  We make videos together, which means we create them as partners from the beginning to end. This includes the shooting, editing, and storyboarding.  Everything I do involves her in one way or another, and I am very lucky to have a support like her in my life. 

- I think you are really happy when you see a black coloured climber... Where does that 'obsession' come from? Why do you think there are no that many of them into climbing?

I think the correct term would be “minority” climbers. HA!  This is a funny question to me… I have always been influences by African American and urban culture in my life in terms of art, music and style.  In turn, I suppose I’m always excited when I see black climbers in what I consider a predominantly white sport. 

- How much effort do you put into editing a video? Can you explain the process to us?

There is a lot of effort when it comes to creating a movie.  The rough breakdown is having a filming day, shooting the climber from two angles and multiple times depending on angles, light, and slow-motion capabilities.  Then I arrange the footage and start editing.  Of course there is a lot more to it than that on the creative end, but I come from a painting background and like to allow the video piece to form and develop itself during the editing process.  I rarely have a set formula for my videos, at least on a conscious level.

- I think you were shaped as a climber in Rumney. How is climbing there and what things did you acquired there that you wouldn't have if you had started in other areas?

Rumney is a rad series of cliffs.  I wouldn’t call it world class, but there are some seriously great routes there.  The climbing is really bouldery and relentless.  Now when I visit there I am glad I have completed what I did, because the style is so mean and thrutchy I wouldn’t want to have to do those routes again!  Growing up there taught me how to deal with conditions, crimp hard, and appreciate what you have.

- Do you like bouldering? Do you practice it? If so, in what proportion in comparison with sport climbing? Any experience in trad or multi-pitch climbs?

Bouldering is awesome and I wish I did it more.  I always get caught up and focused on a hard project however.  When I go bouldering it takes me a minute to get into the swing of it all, but I do re

ally enjoy it.  At the end of the day I would much rather go climb a route than a boulder, but it always depends on the mood and what the climb is.  And… this summer I am eager to do some trad climbing.  I have a few plans and they may even be more than I can handle! But, why not? It’s all just climbing right??!! 

- What climbing spot would you strongly recommend to someone visiting the US and why?

For sport climbing the Red River Gorge is awesome for the international crowd.  The style is pretty simple, but the ambiance is awesome and it’s a unique part of the USA. But really climbers from Europe should probably check out the crack climbing in Yosemite, Indian Creek or the bouldering in Hueco, or down South.  Those are styles of climbing that are unique to the States.

- How do you imagine yourself in 10, 20, 30, etc. years? Still climbing?

In the future for myself…well… climbing for sure probably in the same psyched-up-mind-state as always and enjoying life.  Who knows… maybe buy a house here near Chris & Daila…?


Colette Mc Inerney on 'Sweet Thing', 8a in Acephale (Canada). Pic: Joe Kinder.





The American brand OUTDOOR RESEARCH, based in Seattle and, as its name states, specialised in outdoor gear, presents us with a down insulated jacket, the Transcendent Hoody. This same item is also available without the hood, the Transcendent Sweater, and in vest form, the Transcendent Vest.


The Transcendent Hoody is available in 6 different colours.


Explanatory video.


Once stuffed inside the left pocket.


The Transcendent Hoody with its highly attractive design is a warm, compressible and incredibly lightweight (435g) down insulated jacket. This last characteristic is probably its most striking quality. OR achieve this thanks to its 650 Fill Down/ Goose Down (note that Goose Down is the lightest, warmest and most compressible of all types of fillings).


The hooded version has a down-filled adjustable hood, same as the rest of the jacket, nevertheless, its form is not specifically shaped, hence why its use with a helmet is quite tight and a bit uncomfortable.


It has a large internal front zip pocket, perfect to carry your mobile, route printouts/descriptions, energy bars, etc. The side pockets have a fleece lining making them warmer and more comfortable. Its left pocket is designed to be able to stuff your jacket inside in a fast and easy manner, occupying minimal space in your rucksack.


It also has two big interior pockets you could use to carry your climbing shoes in, (i.e. great to keep your climbing shoes warm on those chilly bouldering days) or simply to store your gloves on a belay service.


Its warmer than what it seems at first glance (its lightness and thinness gives the impression of being fragile) although not as much as the really warm ones. This means that its not enough for those extreme cold days or if we are sensitive to the cold, but when are we climbers/boulderers  exposed to extreme weather conditions compared to alpinists? Hardly ever.


It is therefore perfectly ok to use at chilly belays on most wintery days, when we are in search of the best friction for our boulder projects or for toughening up on light alpine activities.


Talking of alpine activities, due to its thin outer layer we should be careful not to "overuse" it to avoid any possible ripping.