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REVIEW

Friday, 8 May

Tenaya's Tarifa

Tenaya's TarifaBy Esteban Diez Fernández & Ignacio Sandoval Burón8a.nu has been collaborating with TENAYA for a while and for the last 5 months we've been trying out their 2 top-performance shoes, 'Tarifa' and 'Oasi'. This time we're going to inform you on what we've experienced with the fo…


TRAVEL & CRAGS

Friday, 23 January

Railay Beach Additions

This will be gone once the new hotel is set up.LAO LIANG ISLANDKO YAO NOI ISLAND - CHONG PLI, below CHICKEN ISLANDRailay Beach Additions, by Michael Weitsman and Björn AlberEven before  the work to put a wall around the interior part of Tonsai this season, there have been some common …


TRAINING

Thursday, 15 January

Usobiaga Zlagboard interview

Celebrating 9a's with Adam OndraDuring the recovery, surfing was the focus.Training on the ZlagboardPatxi Usobiaga, one of the greatest climbers in the history both on rock and plastic who lately has been training Adam Ondra, gives some thoughts about training. Between 2010 and 2012, he did not trai…


INTERVIEWS

Tuesday, 30 December

Nacho Sánchez about 'Crisis' 8C/+

Nacho Sánchez about 'Crisis' 8C/+By Ignacio Sandoval Burón & Esteban Diez FernándezPic from Boreal webpage.Last Friday, Nacho Sánchez sent his long awaited project in Crevillente, style="font-size: x-large;">'Crisis', grading it as an 8C/+. After two and a half years of efforts, he fini…


Satori de Boreal

By Esteban Diez Fernández & Ignacio Sandoval Burón

Pic from Boreal webpage.
text-autospace:none">
text-autospace:none">Third and last installment of the reviews we've been carrying out on the new Boreal climbing shoes collection. This time it's the turn of the most technical out of the three, the Satori. 

These shoes have been specially designed for bouldering, that's why they come with quite a few details for this discipline. However, like with some other climbing shoes, they will end up being also used in certain routes (specially the bouldery ones).

Esteban Diez in Albarracín ©Ignacio Sandoval

These shoes general form is quite similar to that one of the Dharma (which we told you about in our last review). This is, a wide last at the front (so, super comfy for those with wide feet), downturned for an extra contact surface on steep terrain, quite elevated arch, neoprene sock, the heel totally covered in rubber and a quite elevated instep at the toes level in order to avoid an excess of pressure on the bent toes when leaning against the rubber. This last provides comfort as well as nice work when edging on small foot holds.

Esteban Diez en Las Tuerces ©Augusto Rodríguez

text-autospace:none">Otros dos detalles técnicos que también incorpora el Satori son la goma de la puntera surcada de pequeños relieves para tener máxima fricción en los empeines y el sistema Rand Wrap —las tiras de goma que van del talón hasta el puente que mejoran la sujeción; algo necesario en gatos con esta horma agresiva—.  text-autospace:none">La primera diferencia que nos llama la atención respecto al Dharma es el sistema M2Fit, un método novedoso de atado que combina cordón y velcro para dar mucho ajuste en la parte central del pie. Incorpora además una lengüeta de espuma encima del calcetín de neopreno para evitar que los cordones se 'claven' en el empeine al apretarlos mucho o al usarlo metiendo empeines en alguna presa grande. 

Respecto el M2Fit, nos hemos dado cuenta de que aquellas personas que tengan mucho puente/empeine pueden tener ciertas dificultades a la hora de calzarse, ya que si bien el neopreno da bien de sí, el cordón no tiene suficiente recorrido para dar demasiada amplitud de paso al pie.

Ignacio Sandoval en Albarracín ©Esteban Diez

text-autospace:none">Otra particularidad de estos gatos con respecto a los Dharma es que tienen una protuberancia interior, a media altura de los dedos, que cubre el hueco que dejan estos al doblarse hacia arriba. Algo que nos ha parecido interesante por la comodidad y soporte extra que proporciona. 

Debido a que sólo tiene media entresuela, es más blando que el Dharma, con lo que ello significa: mejor trabajo en desplome, presas romas y mayor sensibilidad, pero menos eficientes en placas o vías donde se descargue mucho peso en los pies. 


Esteban Diez en Las Tuerces ©Jorge Bousoño

text-autospace:none">La parte más controvertida es el talón. Quizás demasiado técnico para los que no se dediquen en exclusiva al bloque, debido a la espuela que incorpora.  text-autospace:none">Si bien es cierto que esta espuela es una manera muy eficiente de 'engancharse' a regletas o garbanzos, en la mayor parte de las ocasiones en las que se usa esta parte del pie hay que buscar la forma de que asiente en la presa debido a esta protuberancia, perdiendo en este tiempo parte de una pegada que quizás necesitemos unos pasos más arriba. 

Esta espuela ya había sido utilizada por Boreal con mejor resultado, según nuestro criterio, en gatos como el Falcon. La combinación en el Satori de un talón tipo 'burbuja' (igual que en el Dharma, ya voluminoso de por sí) junto con este resalte no sería la mejor de las soluciones, puesto que se pierde muchísima sensibilidad, es prácticamente imposible meterlo en ciertas presas y, como ya decíamos más arriba, no asienta lo bien que quisiéramos para darnos seguridad o tenemos que currarnos mucho el posicionamiento.    


Manu Córdova presentando el modelo en la feria de Friedrichshafen 2014 

Nacho Sánchez habla sobre el Satori durante la reunión del equipo Boreal en Chulilla.


REVIEW

Saturday, 27 December

Boreal's Satori

Satori de BorealBy Esteban Diez Fernández & Ignacio Sandoval BurónPic from Boreal webpage. text-autospace:none"> text-autospace:none">Third and last installment of the reviews we've been carrying out on the new Boreal climbing shoes collection. This time it's the turn of the most tech…


INTERVIEWS

Wednesday, 10 December

Obituary: Marietta Uhden 1968 - 2014

Marietta Uhden 1968 - 2014Generation X, By Nicholas MailänderMarietta Uhden, Grande Dame of German Sport Climbing, died of breast cancer in the late hours of Sunday, November 23th in Bad Tölz, Bavaria. Although a born climber, Marietta came to the sport relatively late – at the a…


Boreal's DHARMA

Pic from Boreal website.

Trying them out on 'La Boda Roja', 8a+ in Piedrasecha (León - Spain).
Pic@ Ignacio Sandoval Burón.
Here you can appreciate the arch elevation, as well as the instep and the heel design.
Another shot in the same route using the same climbing shoes.
Pic@ Ignacio Sandoval Burón.
Michael Pickwell explaining the product's main characteristics during the 2014 Friedrichshafen fair.
Dani Andrada does the same in Spanish during the Boreal team meeting in Chulilla (Valencia - Spain).



In this second installment of the reviews we're carrying out of the new Boreal climbing shoes collection –after the one we did about the Marduk and with the Satori's still to come–  we're going to tell you about the DHARMA model.


No doubt these are the more versatile out of the 3 new models, looking for maximum performance in all climbing terrains. With this model, as well as with the Satori, the Spanish shoes company has just made a big leap forward. Pretending not to be left behind, Boreal has come up with this more modern and innovative model, with features which are very much demanded in the actual market, such as the quite aggressive and downturned last.



Their main characteristic is their last which, as said above, is downturned at the toes. Something which is conceived to provide much more contact in steep climbs. At the same time, it is quite wide at the front and the arch is quite elevated (something to be considered by those with these kind of feet). 



It also comes with an integrated elastic tongue in neoprene and a triple velcro system for a better fit. Add the Rand Wrap system with tension bands –a mandatory construction in this kind of last– in order to get a super snug fit which doesn't allow the heel to move at all –something super convenient for heel hooking, a usage this shoes have been designed for–.



The last remarkable detail is a quite high top of the instep, thus avoiding an excess of pressure on the bent toes against the harder rubber part. 



Even if the Satori and the Dharma share the same last, there are certain details which makes them differ from one another. The main difference being that the Dharma has a special anti-deformation half midsole which makes them stiffer than the Satori's. This makes them more convenient for vertical or slightly overhanging routes, where edging on very little holds is the key to performance. The Dharma haven't got an integral molded talon with an insert which eases the heel hooking if we're not specialists in this kind of foot work and/or we're not much into bouldering. With the entire heel all covered in rubber we found it a little bit bulky when trying to put it on tiny/narrow pockets or similar –however, that extra contact surface works better on wider sidepulls or slopy surfaces–.



On a more positive aspect, we would like to highlight the rubber quality. We've had nice feelings on all terrains where they've been tested, from vertical walls with tricky foot work to climbs with polished foot holds, as well as all sort of overhangings... 

We've experienced a normal to fast rubber wear and tear. 



What we didn't like as much was the velcro design which, don't get confused, work really nicely after a lot of usage but it's aesthetically poor for our snobbish taste... In fact, we've found it the least appealing out of the 3 new models.













REVIEW

Monday, 3 November

Boreal's Dharma

Boreal's DHARMA Pic from Boreal website. Trying them out on 'La Boda Roja', 8a+ in Piedrasecha (León - Spain). Pic@ Ignacio Sandoval Burón. Here you can appreciate the arch elevation, as well as the instep and the heel design. Another shot in the same route using the same clim…


REVIEW

Monday, 22 September

Boreal's Marduk

Boreal's MARDUK Pic from Boreal webpage Pic@ Ignacio Sandoval Burón. Pic@ Ignacio Sandoval Burón. Marduk is one of the three new models which the Spanish shoe company, Boreal, has released this year. A collection completed with the 'Dharma' and the 'Satori' (which will be …


INTERVIEWS

Wednesday, 11 June

Patxi Usobiaga

PATXI USOBIAGA By Ignacio Sandoval Burón - You've just sent your third 8c after the injury and almost three years out of the game. Is this the basis for some subsequent harder stuff? The evolution has been serene. I've had to combine training indoors together wi…


REVIEW

Thursday, 15 May

Outdoor Research's CATHODE HOODY

Outdoor Research's CATHODE HOODY  Here are the 3 available colours. Notice the darker elasticized and breathable textile on both sides, lower part of the sleeves and the frontal part of the hood. The new Cathode Hoody by Outdoor Research …