LATEST NEWS

The great Kazbekovs

NUMBERS

Wednesday, 16 November

The great Kazbekovs

Ievgeniia Kazbekova (15) from Ukraine recently onsighted an 8a+ and an 8a at Kalymnos. In 2010, she won the Youth worlds and she did her first 8b+ being 13 years old. Her mother Nataliya has a silver and bronze in the Boulder World Championship. Her father Serik was #2 in the Boulder WC in 1999 and in the world championship in 2005, he was #4 in bouldering and #7 in Lead. Here is family interview of how to live as a rock climber in Ukraine. (c) Anna Piunova, Mountain.ru

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NUMBERS

Wednesday, 16 November

Questions & Answers from Dr 8a

You can ask questions to Dr 8a and check the old ones in this forum thread. Here is an article from Björn Alber and how to stay away from injuries including Therapy and Rehab Tips.

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MORE NEWS

NUMBERS

Wednesday, 16 November

Fontainebleau

NUMBERS

Wednesday, 16 November

Stakes in Turkey

High Altitude Sport by Hirayama

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 15 November

High Altitude Sport by Hirayama

Yuji Hirayama (42), one of the true legends who has been on the frontier for more than 20 years exploring and pushing the standards in all discilplines, reports that he has established two new multi pitches high up at Kinabalu. Alangga, 3 piches 8b tops out at 4 025m and Palan Palan, 9 piches 6b. Previously he has put up three shorter routes in the area and there is one project so is going to return next spring. This winter he will set another five competitions back home in Japan.

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Aussies on the RocTrip

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 15 November

Aussies on the RocTrip

Pretty cool to see some Oz representin' at the Petzl RocTrip in Getu, China. You can read all about Matt Norgrove's adventures on his blog and Logan Barber also has done a blog write-up. Apart from posing with climbing's A-listers, Norry climbed 7 routes in the 27-31 bracket. Meanwhile, Logan reports "A thin layer of dust on the holds and loose rock were common and I couldn't help but think that although the setting was beyond amazing the quality of the routes wasn't quite as good as those found in Yangshuo. Despite this I did do some amazing routes in the grade 27-29 range almost all of which were a grade or two overgraded" Pic: Ethan Pringle, Andrew Bisharat, John Caldwell, Sasha Diguilian, Emily Harrington, Marcos, Norry, Joe Kinder.

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Lead WC grades and gender

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 15 November

Lead WC grades and gender

Evgeny Kryvosheytsev the only World Cup climber who has been on the podium in all disciplines including Ice Speed and Lead, is the chief route setter in Kranj the next weekend. He had the same job in Briancon and here is how he plans the grades. "IFSC does not give any recommendations for the grades but I plan for 8c and 8b+ in the final. The qualifications will be about 8b and 8a for the female and in the semi, 8b+ and 8b." Compared to five years, Evgeny think that the level has increased one grade. The style of the routes are quite different as the female mainly have to do endurance challenges on small crimpers meanwhile the males route are more explosive. Jakob Schubert, who won the first eight WC's in 2011 and who often train with the best female, the Austrian's: "If the male also competed on the female route, maybe two female still would make it to the finals but of course it depends on the style. On the male routes, the female would struggle hard doing dynamic and powerful moves.

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8C by Sean McColl before Lead WC

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 15 November

8C by Sean McColl before Lead WC

Sean McColl who was second in the last Lead WC has prepared for the Kranj WC this weekend only by bouldering in Switzerland. Yesterday he did Big Paw, 8C in Chironico to his long list the last week. "This is my hardest boulder to date and the line is majestic! I found the the boulder fit me very well, although the short person beta was very hard. I had great conditions and I'm in the best shape of my life. A very successful Switzerland bouldering trip! I have a rest day today, then tomorrow I'll try to finish "The Dagger", then maybe one more day of climbing, or maybe two rest days before the WC."

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