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Brazil - Mini Travel Guide

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Brazil - Mini Travel Guide

The climbing community in Brazil is growing very fast and new areas are developed contiously. In total there are 83 crags and 31 boulder areas in the 8a data base. Felipe Camargo recommends to combine Rio de Janeiro where you find all types of climbing and Serra do Cipo, which is a beautiful area with 250 routes and many nice waterfalls etc 2 hr from Belo Horizonte. "You can go with bus to Serra do Cipo and there you don't really need a car. (Within 30 min drive you have an amazing bouldering area called Conceição do mato dentro) There are plenty of refugios for climbers, from really cheap multi beds till nice rooms for couples. The rock is limestone but pretty different than what we found in Spain or other areas in Europe. There are no tufas instead mostly crimps and pinches. The texture is smooth and not really aggressive to the skin and the climbs tend to not be super steep." (c) Michel Silva

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8B+ FA by Alberto Rocasolano

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8B+ FA by Alberto Rocasolano

Alberto Rocasolano has put up his second 8B+, Charlotte in La Pedriza. During the same day he also did the FA of Far Away, 8A+. The 20 year old has previously made four 8A+ and harde FA in Torrelodones. In the ranking game, he is #8.

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8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40) again

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8B FA by Stefan Rasmussen (40) again

Stefan Rasmussen, the man behind Västervik, drove 110 km to Knutby where he put up his video camera and did the FA of FuRB, 8B. The 40 year old and father of four kids, has previously put up five 8B's out of which two this winter season.

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Tudi Caroline Ciavaldini je v Oliani uspela v 8c+!

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Tudi Caroline Ciavaldini je v Oliani uspela v 8c+!

James Pearson sporoča da je njegova punca Caroline Ciavaldini v svojem tretjem poskusom uspela v smeri Mind Control 8c+ v Oliani. "Ker sem smer sam preplezal pred nekaj dnevi sem imel dobro predstavo o tažavah ki jo čakajo in sem se odločil da svoj dan počitka namenim temu da sem njen varovalec in ji tako omogočim najbolšo možnost uspeha. Uporabil sem novo vrv, Beal Joker 9.1mm in tako zmanjšal trenje. Do 5 ali 6 kompleta je plezala z eno vrvjo, na prvem počitku jo je odvrgla in preostanek smeri zlezla z drugo vrvjo, kar je razbremenilo trenje na vrhu smeri. Nikoli prej nisva uporabila 100m vrv!"(c) Francisco Taranto

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PB for Willison

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PB for Willison

Rick Willison has registered his first 31, Point Break in the Blue Mountains. Rick has been making steady progress for the last four years. Nice one.

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8c+ in Oliana also by Caroline Ciavaldini

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8c+ in Oliana also by Caroline Ciavaldini

James Pearson reports that his girlfriend Caroline Ciavaldini has, on her third redpoint attempt, done her first 8c+, Mind Control in Oliana. "Having climbed the route a few days before, I had a pretty good idea of the difficulties involved, and decided to devote my rest day to being the perfect little Gri-Gri girl (boy) to give her the best chance of success. My brand new 9.1mm Beal Joker was pulled out to help with the rope drag. We also worked out a nice method of climbing the first section with 2 ropes, clipping the first 5 or 6 QD’s on one line then dropping it at the rest to allow the other line to run freely through the remainder of the route. This is also the first time I have used a 100m rope!"(c) Francisco Taranto

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