
6 April 2025
Radek Votocek does Kompletace (9a)
Radek Votocek, who did his first 9a last month, after having completed 14 8c+โ, has done Kompletace (9a) in Krkavka. โFirst ascent after the crimp broke in the boulder. Climbed directly, the original beta is no possible. Difficulty is roughly the same as Senzace.โ
Senzace (9a) was Radekโs first 9a, which he began attempting in 2020. Both of the 9a routes were originally established by Adam Ondra over a decade ago as 8c+, but were later upgraded after key holds broke.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and the number of sessions needed?
Kompletace is a route that shares its crux section with Senzace. A few years ago, a fairly important hold broke off. Yesterday, the temperature dropped and the wind brought good conditions for a send, so Iโm really happy that I managed to complete this tough route at Krkavka fairly quickly. ๐
After sending Senzace, I came back to the line about five times and gradually worked out a new, more direct beta. The difficulty matches the crux section of Senzace.
Senzace (9a) was Radekโs first 9a, which he began attempting in 2020. Both of the 9a routes were originally established by Adam Ondra over a decade ago as 8c+, but were later upgraded after key holds broke.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and the number of sessions needed?
Kompletace is a route that shares its crux section with Senzace. A few years ago, a fairly important hold broke off. Yesterday, the temperature dropped and the wind brought good conditions for a send, so Iโm really happy that I managed to complete this tough route at Krkavka fairly quickly. ๐
After sending Senzace, I came back to the line about five times and gradually worked out a new, more direct beta. The difficulty matches the crux section of Senzace.
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