6 April 2025

Radek Votocek does Kompletace (9a)

Radek Votocek, who did his first 9a last month, after having completed 14 8c+โ€™, has done Kompletace (9a) in Krkavka. โ€First ascent after the crimp broke in the boulder. Climbed directly, the original beta is no possible. Difficulty is roughly the same as Senzace.โ€

Senzace (9a) was Radekโ€™s first 9a, which he began attempting in 2020. Both of the 9a routes were originally established by Adam Ondra over a decade ago as 8c+, but were later upgraded after key holds broke.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the number of sessions needed?
Kompletace is a route that shares its crux section with Senzace. A few years ago, a fairly important hold broke off. Yesterday, the temperature dropped and the wind brought good conditions for a send, so Iโ€™m really happy that I managed to complete this tough route at Krkavka fairly quickly. ๐Ÿ˜Œ

After sending Senzace, I came back to the line about five times and gradually worked out a new, more direct beta. The difficulty matches the crux section of Senzace.
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