Michael Piccolruaz, who has sent a dozen routes 8B to 8C during a five weeks trip to Rocklands, has flashed Shakey Warrior (8B+). ” Wow, felt effortless. Had a good plan, executed perfectly and it fit my style really well. With all of this coming together magical things can happen... Thx Thilo and Teo for the support and hype!”

How did you prepare beta wise and how was your feeling during the ascent?
For preparation I watched videos of Alex Khazanov and Vadim Timonov. Thankfully the both used exactly the same beta so I didn't have any struggles of choosing one and I simply trusted theirs to be the right way of climbing the Boulder. I then took my time to feel the holds out well to know exactly how I wanted to hold them making precise tickmarks for later when I would be climbing. Before climbing I simply visualized the climb a couple times and then just went for it.

The climbing itself felt extremely flowy. I didn't think at all whether I'm doing anything right or wrong but just committed to the plan until I realized when I was setting up for the last move, 'holy shit' I can do this actually and I knew I was not gonna drop it. And moments later I was mantling up smiling at Thilo and Teo, who were almost more psyched from what had just happened, than I was in the moment 😅

Jules Marchaland, has repeated Dylan Chuat’s Big nose (8C) in Fionnay. At 24 years old, the world’s number three in the route rankings game had completed just seven boulders graded 8A or harder before last year—a total he matched in just the past week.

”Too bad conditions for Permanent midnight low (8C+) so I decided to check this one and send it in 30 minutes. This boulder is amazing, with a completely wild selection of holds and some crazy moves. I don’t have much experience with bouldering grades, but it’s definitely soft, still, it feels harder than the 8B+ problems I’ve done in this kind of long style. Big up dydy pour la first.”

Lucile Saurel, who placed in the top 20 at both of her World Cups this year, has completed Zima Blue (8B) in Fionnay. (c) Aurele Bremond

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8B?
I came to Fionnay last year for three days and tried this boulder during one session. At the time, I felt very far from sending it. The moves seemed doable in themselves but very hard! Overall, I just wasn’t strong enough!

This year, I came back for five days to this beautiful place. I needed one session to figure out the moves again. I was really feeling great, strong in my fingers and with good sensations! So I took a proper rest day, and then the next day, after a good warm-up, it only took me three goes to send this boulder. It's quite long but really suited to my style: pretty physical on a steep overhang, and very finger-intensive! I really liked the effort it required, there were three pretty hard moves at the start, then a few easier ones in the middle, and a final hard move where I had to stay fully focused until the end! So that’s it, Zima Blue is done, and now I’m planning to start even lower to try Compass North (8B+).

Loic Zehani, with 18 FA’s 9a+ or 9b to his name, has repeated Chocholocco (9a) in Carros, on his second go. ”One of the craziest moments of my climber life: A very nice route ( sort of diagonal prow of about 15 meters ) an anthology fight ( especially on an undercling right hand few moves before the rest and to finish the route because I was pumped ). An approximate work of the movements sometimes ... I feel like I'm in really good shape theses days , one of the best in my life maybe ( good try in my big project , some 8B flash in the Kilter Board ... ). The first part is very powerfull and resistant, the second part is easier but it’s physical too and the finish on the pockets is not easy when you are pumped. Thanks Axel Franco to have bolted this 5 stars route.”

Can you tell us more about the crazy experience sending a 9a second go?
I was only in the area for the day and decided to go to this crag because it looked really beautiful. When I got there, I went straight to check the moves on this route. Thirty minutes later, I sent this king line through a nice fight in the second part, given the lack of optimization of the betas . I will keep good memories of this half-day.

What is next?
I have no plan, only one project 😀 It’s a hard project ( ~ 9b ) in a cave in Gorges de l’Ardèche.

Jenn DeBellis, with a dozen 8A and beyond under her belt, has done The Arch (8B) in Rocklands. ”A looooong lesson in patience.”
Can you tell us more about the long lesson for doing your first 8B?
I'm super happy I was able to finish it on my last day :) I fell on the ending for 7 sessions and battled with a lot of bleeding fingertips, poor conditions, and bad tactics. It was ultimately a lesson in patience and creating the right opportunity for myself to succeed - and I suppose some pressure with it being my last day :) I never got any professional pictures on the boulder unfortunately. If it helps here is the best pic I have.

Alex Ventajas, who sent his third 9a+ this spring. has flashed Paranoid (8c) in La Stazione.

Can you tell us more about the flash and the beta you did get?
I’m so pleased about this send! Some friends told me “Paranoid” could be a good line to try flash, so I was curious to come here and see! The first day I felt tired since I had some intense route-setting days just before, and I didn’t want to waste the opportunity, so I tried different routes to adapt to this style and get used to this wall.

Yesterday was my second day in “La stazione” and I had the luck to find my friend Davide Bassotto and his father Pietro who helped me visualize all the moves and encouraged me to give it a go! I’m really satisfied with the attempt since I managed to find my flow and climb every section without making mistakes!

The day before I watched another climber trying it, then with Davide and Pietro I visualized the moves from the ground, trying to memorize the sequences and also watch one of their videos. The hard part is that the rock is white so it's hard to see the holds and understand from the ground how their are. When I started climbing, some holds were slightly different compared to what I expected, but luckily it's a route that let you fight and I had a great feeling climbing!

Jules Marchaland, who was 26th in both his Lead WC’s last month, has had an amazing day in Fionnay doing Compass North (8B+), Foundations Edge (8C) and another three 8A’s including a flash of Permanent Midnight (8A+).

Can you tell us more about the amazing day and your new bouldering focus?
My lead world cup season is done. French team choose to focus on Young climbers. And that’s cool, I can go bouldering and accept to loose some endurance 😅. After some Times in Ceuse for the Classic BIO I moved to Fionnay with Simon [Lorenzi].

First day I send « scarred for life » after a really close flash go and decided to go on foundation just after. I completely miss the flash on it and then had some promising goes but not enought to finish it the first day after a really long and hard sesh.

Second sesh I was destroy but really psyched. We warm up around permanent and climb a good 8A (essai transformé). Then I had a good flash on permanent midnight and send it. After that, we moved to the cave. I flashed off the system (8A) for finish the warm up. Check a new beta in foundation and send it in the first try. Then I had to give my flash on compass North and fell the hand in the last jug 🤡. Send it the try after and the send is done 😅

What is next?
Next proj is probably Permanent midnight low (8C+). The new Clement rig. And maybe also fuck the systeme. And just chilling in swizzy is in the plan.