
7 August 2025
Jules Marchaland does Foundations Edge (8C)
Jules Marchaland, who was 26th in both his Lead WCโs last month, has had an amazing day in Fionnay doing Compass North (8B+), Foundations Edge (8C) and another three 8Aโs including a flash of Permanent Midnight (8A+).
Can you tell us more about the amazing day and your new bouldering focus?
My lead world cup season is done. French team choose to focus on Young climbers. And thatโs cool, I can go bouldering and accept to loose some endurance ๐ . After some Times in Ceuse for the Classic BIO I moved to Fionnay with Simon [Lorenzi].
First day I send ยซ scarred for life ยป after a really close flash go and decided to go on foundation just after. I completely miss the flash on it and then had some promising goes but not enought to finish it the first day after a really long and hard sesh.
Second sesh I was destroy but really psyched. We warm up around permanent and climb a good 8A (essai transformรฉ). Then I had a good flash on permanent midnight and send it. After that, we moved to the cave. I flashed off the system (8A) for finish the warm up. Check a new beta in foundation and send it in the first try. Then I had to give my flash on compass North and fell the hand in the last jug ๐คก. Send it the try after and the send is done ๐
What is next?
Next proj is probably Permanent midnight low (8C+). The new Clement rig. And maybe also fuck the systeme. And just chilling in swizzy is in the plan.
Can you tell us more about the amazing day and your new bouldering focus?
My lead world cup season is done. French team choose to focus on Young climbers. And thatโs cool, I can go bouldering and accept to loose some endurance ๐ . After some Times in Ceuse for the Classic BIO I moved to Fionnay with Simon [Lorenzi].
First day I send ยซ scarred for life ยป after a really close flash go and decided to go on foundation just after. I completely miss the flash on it and then had some promising goes but not enought to finish it the first day after a really long and hard sesh.
Second sesh I was destroy but really psyched. We warm up around permanent and climb a good 8A (essai transformรฉ). Then I had a good flash on permanent midnight and send it. After that, we moved to the cave. I flashed off the system (8A) for finish the warm up. Check a new beta in foundation and send it in the first try. Then I had to give my flash on compass North and fell the hand in the last jug ๐คก. Send it the try after and the send is done ๐
What is next?
Next proj is probably Permanent midnight low (8C+). The new Clement rig. And maybe also fuck the systeme. And just chilling in swizzy is in the plan.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
11 August 2025
Jules Marchaland does Big Nose (8C) in 30 min
Jules Marchaland, has repeated Dylan Chuatโs Big nose (8C) in Fionnay. At 24 years old, the worldโs number three in the route rankings game had completed just โฆ
12 November 2025
Adam Ondra flashes Foundations Edge (8C)
Adam Ondra has flashed Dave Grahamโs classical Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. โAmazing moment, everything was perfect. Thanks Dylan and Marci for the beta. Fโฆ
10 August 2023
Pietro Vidi sends Foundations Edge (8C) and three 8B+
Pietro Vidi, who was #6 in a Boulder Euro Cup in May and #3 in the Italian Championship, has during a five day trip to Fionnay done Foundations Edge (8C), videoโฆ
Related news
11 August 2025
Jules Marchaland does Big Nose (8C) in 30 min
Jules Marchaland, has repeated Dylan Chuatโs Big nose (8C) in Fionnay. At 24 years old, the worldโs number three in the route rankings game had completed just โฆ
12 November 2025
Adam Ondra flashes Foundations Edge (8C)
Adam Ondra has flashed Dave Grahamโs classical Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. โAmazing moment, everything was perfect. Thanks Dylan and Marci for the beta. Fโฆ
10 August 2023
Pietro Vidi sends Foundations Edge (8C) and three 8B+
Pietro Vidi, who was #6 in a Boulder Euro Cup in May and #3 in the Italian Championship, has during a five day trip to Fionnay done Foundations Edge (8C), videoโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ




