Michael Piccolruaz flashes Shakey Warrior (8B+)

Michael Piccolruaz, who has sent a dozen routes 8B to 8C during a five weeks trip to Rocklands, has flashed Shakey Warrior (8B+). ” Wow, felt effortless. Had a good plan, executed perfectly and it fit my style really well. With all of this coming together magical things can happen... Thx Thilo and Teo for the support and hype!”

How did you prepare beta wise and how was your feeling during the ascent?
For preparation I watched videos of Alex Khazanov and Vadim Timonov. Thankfully the both used exactly the same beta so I didn't have any struggles of choosing one and I simply trusted theirs to be the right way of climbing the Boulder. I then took my time to feel the holds out well to know exactly how I wanted to hold them making precise tickmarks for later when I would be climbing. Before climbing I simply visualized the climb a couple times and then just went for it.

The climbing itself felt extremely flowy. I didn't think at all whether I'm doing anything right or wrong but just committed to the plan until I realized when I was setting up for the last move, 'holy shit' I can do this actually and I knew I was not gonna drop it. And moments later I was mantling up smiling at Thilo and Teo, who were almost more psyched from what had just happened, than I was in the moment 😅