Sara Šimekova ticks Rustam Direct (8B)

Sara Šimekova, #8 in the Euro Boulder/Lead Youth Championship last year, has done Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. “Climbed on second session. For smaller people the end is also quite uncomfortable. The hardest part for me was to connect it all together.” (c) Hanka Šikulová

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Honestly, I didn't expect this one 😅 After some disappointing European competitions, I went bouldering outside just to clear my head, try some moves, and for a moment, stop thinking about training, pushing, expectations...

On the first session, I did all the moves, but I knew that linking them together will be a bit harder. During my second session, it somehow all fell into place, my mind and body worked together, and I just knew exactly what to do and what my body wants.

Considering the fact that my skin started to hurt and we had already spent some time trying the boulder, I knew that I didn't have much more attempts. I also knew that after that session, regardless of whether I sent it or not, I'd head home and might not get another chance to try it until autumn. Yet I was absolutely okay with that, I was enjoying the process, feeling happy about the progress I made, and that I had a chance to try some cool moves.

Biggest thanks belong to my coach Tomáš Binter st. without whom I wouldn't have the physical foundation to do it in the first place. He also helped me a lot with tuning the beta and tactics. I also can't forget to mention he drove me there and spent his free time with two teenage girls. Big thanks to @hani_sikulova for mental support, great company, and photos. Without you, we wouldn't have had bouldermats and probably wouldn't have been able to try the boulder. Thanks also to my sponsors who support me on my journey and help me climb harder and recover better by providing me not just training material but also clothes, services, snacks and much more. Thanks also to @climbingjane who gave me all the information like where to park, how to find the boulder, etc. 🙏 Last but not least, thanks to my family and everyone who cheers for me ❤)

What has been your focus the last year and how much have you been climbing outdoors?
During the last year, we didn't focus much on rock climbing. My priority is competition, so outdoor climbing is just for fun. Last autumn, I spent some days lead climbing in Osp and Spain after the competition season ended. However, aside from that, I haven't been spending time on rocks because I decided to focus more on training and indoor climbing to be better prepared.