Sorato Anraku began the final with a flash and put pressure on all five following finalists. Being the only climber to top out the second boulder, which no one else made the zone on, the 16-year-old carved out a big lead. Mathematically, it was clear that he would win the overall if he was to place second or better, but as he did not even make the zone on the third boulder, the competition opened up once more.

On the final boulder, he struggled with the intro dyno but on his seventh try, he stuck it and cruised to the top, which secured him a podium position.

When later Sam Avezou did not make the dyno, Sorato secured the overall title. Then Meichi Narasaki, in fifth position, had just two attempts to send it in order to win but as he needed seven tries he was runner-up. Complete results

Sorato said in the IFSC interview; “When my climbing had finished after the final boulder I still wasn’t sure if I would win. Maybe a 50-50 chance, but I had done all I could and I couldn’t worry about the others and what they were going to do.” (c) Jan Virt/IFSC

Hannes Puman, #25 in Innsbruck, told 8a the great story of when he ran into the 16-year-old in a Tokyo gym this spring. They started to boulder and it did not take long until Puman realised he was on another level, especially on holding dyno swings.

Talking to Sorato in Brixen he says he mainly trains alone or with some locals from Chiba, 1.5 hours from Tokyo. Most of his training consists of bouldering or doing circuits and sometimes also some hangboarding. He does not follow any strict training plan. A couple times a month he travels to Tokyo to train with guys from the national team.

Karolina Ośka has done Batalion skała (8c) at Pochylec

”Batalion Skała is a route on Pochylec - a crag near Krakow where I live. I started trying it last spring. It starts with a difficult and precise boulder, which I managed to do only a few times at that time. In June, the season and sports form ended and the trip to Yosemite was coming, so I had to change my climbing focus. This year, when I returned to Pochylec, I felt much better on the route. Winter training paid off, even despite the injury that happened to me in the meantime. Boulder was no longer a problem and I almost always was able to pass through it. However, it took me 6 more days of tries this season to finally pass the fingery and endurance section above the boulder.

The day I sent the route I had absolutely no expectations, because I felt pretty bad in the morning. However, I climbed exceptionally well and kept falling on literally the last move before the good rest. I had already done my standard 3 attempts and was about to go home, but suddenly I spontaneously decided that I would climb again - this time expecting absolutely nothing from this try. The lack of expectations worked like magic and after a while, a little disbelieving, I finished the route, not even very tired. :)”

What is your climbing background?
I have been climbing for 13 years now. Batalion is my second 8c - 5 years after the first one. That one was way harder and I am sure that 5 years ago it would be too hard for me. For most of the time I try to combine sport climbing with a bit more adventurous stuff (multipich routes, trad and big wall). I love climbing in Yosemite. With my friend as a team we’ve done 3 classic routes on the El Cap. As I am not entirely focused only on sport I am never bored by climbing. For the last 4 years I have been trying to raise my level of sport climbing and I started training seriously under the guidance of two best climbing coaches in Poland - Maciek Oczko and Magda Terlecka.

Sara Gearhart, who the last 18 months has done a dozen 8A’s and five 8A+’, has sent No More Greener Grasses (8A+) at Mount Blue Sky.

”So cool to come back to a boulder after a few seasons and feel how much you've changed as a climber. Dry fired and hit the rock the go before the send. More proud of myself for getting up and trying again than anything else. As far as grade, seems to fit the girls better but we take those! Happy to have done such a beautiful classic.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the boulder in Fall of 2021 and thought it was hard, I wasn't able to do the crux move. Coming back this year it felt really different and much easier. I think this boulder fits my size well and the beta I used did not feel too difficult in the end. Felt very lucky to get a good weather window after the past few weeks in the alpine (it's been so rainy/snowy!) Projecting this boulder is very special because there are always other women working on it :)

What are your summer plans?
I'll be here in Colorado for a few weeks if the weather improves! I'd love to spend time working on evil backwards and some new projects! If it stays really rainy I'll go back to salt lake city to train for the summer :) it's been hard in Colorado since I work full time and the evenings have been very wet/rainy. Fingers crossed!

You manage to crush boulders whilst working full-time?
I work as a federal consultant for health care improvement and quality measurement! It's very interesting and I enjoy it but it is very time consuming. I wish I had mornings free at least!! That would be amazing :) but it's a pretty good balance overall.

Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add to that another ten 9a's and harder over the last year, making the 30-year-old one of the undisputed champions of redpointing.

What does a normal climbing week look like at home and as well as during a trip?
At home, I usually climb outdoors during the day and train in the gym during the evening. It permits me to keep my motivation up and improve my physical capacity. I usually do 2 days on, one day off. On a trip, it's a bit different, I try to be as fresh as possible to do my best in the projects. I can train if needed, but I will keep under control my shape, and try to not be as much tired [over fatigued].

What is it that inspires you the most in climbing?
Finding a beautiful and hard project in a stunning place is what I am climbing for. I am always searching for this.

How many routes have you bolted and made the FA of?
30 ? 40 ? [I] don't really remember all.

Which of your FA's do you think are most likely to become must-do-classics?
All the routes in Pic St Loup and La Ramirole I think. All these routes are quite amazing in a stunning place. La Rage d'Adam (9b+) is maybe the favourite because it's the only one which is not a marathon. (c) Julia Cassou from 2019.

What are your 2023 plans and ambitions?
]which he sent last week], Norway, Italy, Spain...

What advice would you give to upcoming youngsters?
Keep dreaming about your project, and keep your motivation high, it will bring you a long way.

William Bosi has repeated Ultra Instinct (8C) at Forest Rock and here is the video. The FA was done this spring by Orrin Coley after working it for three years. The 24-year-old is a superior #1 in the 8a ranking game, his 12 399 points is the highest ever achieved on 8a since we started with the scorecards in 2000.

Can you tell us more about UI and the potential sit start as well as continuing the roof?
It took 4 sessions in total, one last year where I did the higher start. Then one where it was mostly wet and I couldn’t really try. Then finally to redpoint sessions last week. It’s a cool boulder as it’s just big pure power moves! There is definitely potential for a sit start and I’m hoping to try that soon but I think it will make it a lot harder! You could also continue into the roof I think but it would start getting way too high

Cameron Hörst, who made his first out of nine 9a's in 2019 at age 18, has made the FA of Martial Law (9a+) at Robber's Roost. In the 8a ranking game, the 22-year-old is #13.

"Martial Law is a direct, harder start to an existing route called Arrested Development (8c+). The direct start was bolted/prepped by Andy Raether and Joe Kinder. A couple of weeks ago Joe invited me down to Vegas to try this Martial Law project with him. After a couple of sessions on the climb, I got super psyched and felt like I could do it with some effort."

It is a super bouldery and resistant route about 20-move, nonstop, intro section straight into the crux of arrested development. The grade seems to feel like a super super hard 9a or 9a+. Im deciding to propose 9a+ because I feel like it is harder than the 9a/+ I did (Bone Tomahawk). I also discussed it with Joe (who has done numerous 9a+ FA’s) and we both feel it is of the 9a+ standard. Getting to have the FA of Martial Law is a huge milestone in my climbing career. I am super thankful to Joe and Andy for welcoming me to try it!"

Today, he also sent Dad Bod (9a) at the same crag, calling it 8c+.
”Believe this is the 4th ascent? The Way Andy and Owen did it is def 9a. However, in the first (hardest) crux there is an obvious right knee scum that makes it V9/10 rather than V12. It is way too obvious not to use, so it will be the way people do it moving forward. I propose the climb should be checked at 8c+.”