3 November 2022
Suprรชme Jumbo Love 9b+ by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN has done the FA of the long-standing project Jumbo Love (9b) direct start, calling it Suprรชme Jumbo Love 9b+ at Clark Mountain. (c) Clarisse Bompard
โThe route is around 70m and the hardest part of this route is to combine everything. The first 9a is quite tricky, and it's easy to fall, even if you have the power. Then you have this Jumbo Love crux, where it's definitely possible to fall even if you have the power (missing the one finger pocket). Then you need this fresh energy to link all the pumpy part to reach the lip of the overhang. The last slab is not that hard, but if you are done, and you don't know it quite well... you can easily fall there too.
The first time I made it through the direct start, it was my third try of the day. I was definitely too spent to have any chance on the main Jumbo Love section. I knew I had to do the direct and the Jumbo Love crux on the first try if I wanted to have a chance on the pumpy Jumbo Love section. Sometime everything just comes together, shape, conditions, vibes, friends, cameraman, luck,... I know it doesn't happen that often, and I am very grateful to live such big moments. More to come about the history of this route, the grade reflection, and our adventures here. But at the moment, let's enjoy the suprรชme love. Thanks to everyone who contribuated to this ascent: Clarisse Bompard, Steven, Dustyn, Nate, Randy Leavitt, Alex Honnold & BJ.โ
โThe route is around 70m and the hardest part of this route is to combine everything. The first 9a is quite tricky, and it's easy to fall, even if you have the power. Then you have this Jumbo Love crux, where it's definitely possible to fall even if you have the power (missing the one finger pocket). Then you need this fresh energy to link all the pumpy part to reach the lip of the overhang. The last slab is not that hard, but if you are done, and you don't know it quite well... you can easily fall there too.
The first time I made it through the direct start, it was my third try of the day. I was definitely too spent to have any chance on the main Jumbo Love section. I knew I had to do the direct and the Jumbo Love crux on the first try if I wanted to have a chance on the pumpy Jumbo Love section. Sometime everything just comes together, shape, conditions, vibes, friends, cameraman, luck,... I know it doesn't happen that often, and I am very grateful to live such big moments. More to come about the history of this route, the grade reflection, and our adventures here. But at the moment, let's enjoy the suprรชme love. Thanks to everyone who contribuated to this ascent: Clarisse Bompard, Steven, Dustyn, Nate, Randy Leavitt, Alex Honnold & BJ.โ
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