Seb Bouin shares some thoughts on his year long climbing spree

14 June 2023

Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add to that another ten 9a's and harder over the last year, making the 30-year-old one of the undisputed champions of redpointing.

What does a normal climbing week look like at home and as well as during a trip?
At home, I usually climb outdoors during the day and train in the gym during the evening. It permits me to keep my motivation up and improve my physical capacity. I usually do 2 days on, one day off. On a trip, it's a bit different, I try to be as fresh as possible to do my best in the projects. I can train if needed, but I will keep under control my shape, and try to not be as much tired [over fatigued].

What is it that inspires you the most in climbing?
Finding a beautiful and hard project in a stunning place is what I am climbing for. I am always searching for this.

How many routes have you bolted and made the FA of?
30 ? 40 ? [I] don't really remember all.

Which of your FA's do you think are most likely to become must-do-classics?
All the routes in Pic St Loup and La Ramirole I think. All these routes are quite amazing in a stunning place. La Rage d'Adam (9b+) is maybe the favourite because it's the only one which is not a marathon. (c) Julia Cassou from 2019.

What are your 2023 plans and ambitions?
]which he sent last week], Norway, Italy, Spain...

What advice would you give to upcoming youngsters?
Keep dreaming about your project, and keep your motivation high, it will bring you a long way.
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