14 June 2023

Seb Bouin shares some thoughts on his year long climbing spree

Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add to that another ten 9a's and harder over the last year, making the 30-year-old one of the undisputed champions of redpointing.

What does a normal climbing week look like at home and as well as during a trip?
At home, I usually climb outdoors during the day and train in the gym during the evening. It permits me to keep my motivation up and improve my physical capacity. I usually do 2 days on, one day off. On a trip, it's a bit different, I try to be as fresh as possible to do my best in the projects. I can train if needed, but I will keep under control my shape, and try to not be as much tired [over fatigued].

What is it that inspires you the most in climbing?
Finding a beautiful and hard project in a stunning place is what I am climbing for. I am always searching for this.

How many routes have you bolted and made the FA of?
30 ? 40 ? [I] don't really remember all.

Which of your FA's do you think are most likely to become must-do-classics?
All the routes in Pic St Loup and La Ramirole I think. All these routes are quite amazing in a stunning place. La Rage d'Adam (9b+) is maybe the favourite because it's the only one which is not a marathon. (c) Julia Cassou from 2019.

What are your 2023 plans and ambitions?
]which he sent last week], Norway, Italy, Spain...

What advice would you give to upcoming youngsters?
Keep dreaming about your project, and keep your motivation high, it will bring you a long way.
0 comments
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Bouin's DNA (9c) video is out

Sebastien Bouin made the FA of DNA (9c) in La Ramirole last year. Now the 25 minutes mini-doc is out.

Seb Bouin interview
20 January 2023

Seb Bouin interview

Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+, Nordic Marathon 9b/+ and he also repeated Change 9b+. (c) Clarisse…

Seb Bouin does Bibliographie (9b+)

Sebastien BOUIN has made the third repeat of Alex Megos’ in Céüse. In total, the 30-year-old has now done more than a dozen routes 9b to 9c. (c) Clarisse Bompa…