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Rogora and Bailey win in Chamonix

Rogora and Bailey win in Chamonix

Laura Rogora won in Chamonix being the only one topping out in a great fight, which was the highlight of the evening. Natalia Grossman continued showing great also in Lead, getting the silver. Third was Alex Totkova (16) who has improved from being #18 and #6 in her two first WCs. Vita Lukan lost the bronze due to countback. (c) Vladek Zumr

Among the male, unfortunately, the route was too hard but as in Villars, Sean Bailey got highest on the wall. Second and third were Stefano Ghisolfi and Martin Stranik who both fell as they tried to use a kneebar. Martin is a boulder specialist who got the silver in the World Championship in 2007! From the Complete results we can see that almost all of the Olympians did not take part.

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Power of Now direct 8C by Simon Lorenzi

Power of Now direct 8C by Simon Lorenzi

Simon Lorenzi reports on Insta that he has done a direct 8C variation of Giuliano Cameroni's Power of Now 8C. The 168 cm tall had to add one dyno from two underclings in order to get to the original starting crimps, which you normally can reach from the slab. (c) Samuel Tuor

"I did it on the first try of my 2nd session. Next is back to training for competitions :) My next official competition will be the world championship in September."

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Two 8As by Johanna Klein (18)

Two 8As by Johanna Klein (18)

Johanna Klein, who was #12 in a Euro Youth Cup in May, has done two 8A's in Silvretta, Schattenkrieger and Niviuk. (c) Leonard Moser

Video from her first trip to Magic doing her third 8A. Interestingly, the 18-year-old has never needed more than three sessions doing any of her five 8A's. She only started climbing in 2017 with a background in artistic gymnastics. In March 2020, she had to do a shoulder surgery.

"The reason for my shoulder surgery was a slap lesion in my right shoulder. I had shoulder pain for quite some time which was induced due to overtraining. At the beginning of July last year, I started climbing again - towards August/September I was able to return to full training."

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Nine girls top in Chamonix semi and Lehmann highest among the boys

Nine girls top in Chamonix semi and Lehmann highest among the boys

Nolwenn Arc topped the too easy female semi route in Chamonix but failed to qualify to the final, due to countback. The big negative surprice was that Momoka Abe, #4 in Villars, and Lucka Rakovec, who won the qualification, did not make the final although almost all the Olympians were missing.

Among the boys, Sascha Lehmann got highest followed by Stefano Ghisolfi. The three highest ranked after the qualification, Satone Yoshida, Alberto Gines Lopez and Domen Skofic did all fail to make the final. It was raining and possibly this created worse conditions for the ones starting last. (c) Vladek Zumr Male and Female results.

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Insomniac 8C+ by Drew Ruana

Insomniac 8C+ by Drew Ruana

Drew Ruana reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Insomniac 8C+ at Lincoln Lake. It starts doing eight moves of Wheel of wolvo (8B+) followed by a good rest and then continuous through We Can Build You (8B+). "The first section is the most physically demanding part, sapping a lot of power before the end. The second half is a power endurance nightmare, making for a 30 move frenzy of hard moves with a heartbreaker at the end." (c) Alton Richardsson

Drew Ruana, finishing #13 in the Combined World Championship of 2019, had ascended one 8B+ when he stopped competing. Now 21 months later he has done close to 40 boulders 8B+ and harder including five 8C+', although started full-time University Chemical engineering studies last September. In 2020, he was awarded 8A Boulderer of the year, interview.

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El mon agermanat 8c (+) by Jose Agustí (44)

El mon agermanat 8c (+) by Jose Agustí (44)

Jose Agustí, who did his first and only 9a in 2017, has done El mon agermanat 8c+ in Sant Miquel del Fai. The 44-year-old says he has never trained on plastics but rather on rock and that onsights have been a great focus. Four years ago, he onsighted his 19th 8a+. (c) Carlos Pérez

"There are more than two years working on this route, a well known 8b+ first pitch, that I have done multiple times, but hard due to the crux move cause as it involves a better core than I was having the last years. In 2021, due to the confinement, I have been climbing a lot in Sant Llorenç del Munt Sescorts sector, where I recovered my core at levels of 2017, and this was the key.

I discovered the big cave of Sant Miquel del Fa in 2016 and step by step I have done almost all the routes there, including my first 9a. Since the beginning, I was travelling around Europe in order to onsight my best and in Rodellar I achieved my best, Alter ego 8b."

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