18 April 2024

Jakob Bizjak ticks Xaxid hostel (9a)

Jakob Bizjak has done Xaxid hostel (9a) in Mišja Peč. The picture is from Umetnost (9a) which was his second, out of four, 9a’s.

"After passing the lower crux 4 times only to fall in the upper endurance part and after being painfully close in May 2023 in the heat and crapy conditions (fell at the last jug after the roof!!), I am incredibly psyched to pull it together this year. Without a doubt the best and hardest line I have climbed so far. Second Slovenian ascent! :))"

Can you tell us a little more about Xaxid?
The route is a perfect long line, very versatile and complex and demands bouldering power in the start and endurance and keeping a cool head all the way to the top. Also because it was right on my limit, I needed to change my approach and strategy to send - balancing life, time management, and conditions with physical and mental shape while not trying the route too much, but focusing on long term improvement was the key to me. I also was in the best shape of my life last May and failed at the very top (I fell [literally] at the last jug before the anchor), but then [I] wanted to send way too badly and stressed - I needed to relax and go with the flow in my opinion. Really psyched for more climbing!
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