27 February 2014

Some 8C must be upgraded to 8C+

During the last year, the number of 8B+ and 8C boulders that have been recorded in the 8a data base are 131 and 30. In comparison, the two highest recorded routes grades 9b and 9b+ have 3 and 1 ascent. Until some ten years ago, we had grade inflation and several super soft 8C and 8C+' were sat up and repeated quickly. They have all been down graded 1 - 2 grades and the major reason for this was the Dave Graham's The Story of 2 (grading) Worlds 8C from 2005. Lately, it seems the grade pendulum have struck to hard creating an 8C+ grade deflation actually hindering further community progress. The only three 8C+ boulder suggestions, during the last three years, have come from Adam Ondra, including his personal upgrade on Gioia. Having talked to potential 8C+ boulderers like; Woods, Graham, Robinson and Traversi, they all agree that it is time to do some 8C+ upgradings. Let us hope Hukkataival can get the ball rolling by giving Gioia 8C+. "Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion.
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