David Reeve is an Australian rock climber who dates back to the days of hemp ropes and primitive gear of the sixties. He is an analytical chemist by training and has spent most of his professional life working as an engineer in the design and manufacture of scientific instrumentation.

In regards aggressive corrosion of climbing anchors on certain sea cliffs he has published a long article, discussing Titanium vs 316 and 304 bolts. The picture shows a 304 bolt from Cabo da Roca, Portugal. It was hit with a hammer, and first opened along a SSC crack, to terminate in brittle fracture across the remaining solid metal. In a special summary to Vertical-Life, see below, his conclusion is that Titanium is best at the same time he says, “There are no records of verified 316 failing under SRB attack, but it is early days as far as 316 installation is concerned, and the future could hold surprises.”

”All sea-cliffs are corrosive to some degree. However, at a limited number of locations throughout the world there are crags where the corrosion of stainless steel anchors is remarkably aggressive. Not only is the rate of corrosion high, but it occurs in a way that often makes it hidden to the climber.

Railay/Tonsai in Thailand, Long Dong in Taiwan, the Western Mediterranean and the coast of Portugal are all places where this unusual corrosion phenomenon occurs.

We have sampled over 100 crags around the world and have concluded that all exceptionally corrosive sites are associated with an excess of sulphate on the rock surface. The quantity of sulphate is large enough that solid deposits of calcium sulphate will be encountered.

By itself sulphate is not corrosive to stainless steel. However, when it feeds sulphate reducing bacteria (SRB) located in the regions of low oxygen content down the hole between bolt and rock, between hanger and rock, between nut and bot, and so forth, then the resultant metabolic products can cause extreme corrosion.

We have shown that the redox chemistry of the metabolic processes favours hydrogen embrittlement of the metal leading to ultimate failure by sulphide stress cracking (SSC). We have found no evidence that this exceptional corrosion mechanism involves chloride-mediated stress corrosion cracking (SCC) as was initially postulated.

The best way to avoid the attention of SRB in high sulphate sea-cliffs is to use titanium anchors. If you must use stainless steel then choose one that is resistant to hydrogen embrittlement. For this, the nickel content must be over 10%, which means 316 might just be ok. There are no records of verified 316 failing under SRB attack, but it is early days as far as 316 installation is concerned, and the future could hold surprises. Selecting one of the high nickel HCR steels would be a surer bet, but they are more expensive than titanium so there is little point.”

Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world, is set to take place from 7 - 10 May in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy.

“Like last year, the event runs officially from Wednesday through to Saturday, with a relaxed return home on Sunday. This also means that Melloblocco is an invitation to enjoy the valley to the full and, if possible, to spend a few extra days exploring its hidden corners during the week. In some respects this is a call to slow things down, in order to appreciate the greater beauty of the valley. It's a sort of ode to deliberation, to a mellow Mello, with everyone climbing together, following the rhythm of nature.

Having said that, 21 years after the first edition Melloblocco promises to be anything but boring. More details and updates concerning the 2025 event will follow in due course, and while pre-registration opens soon on the website Melloblocco.it. In the meantime grab pen and paper and mark the dates in your calendar: May = Melloblocco.”

Camille Coudert, who in 2022 repeated Soudain seul (9A) (without a book) made the FA of Imothep du sol (8B+) in Fontainebleau almost two years ago. Now he has spent some 100 sessions working the full line from the sit start, without having done the second move.

“I fall at the last hard move starting from the second move but I still don’t make it to the second hold (I’m getting closer). I would say that I am both near and far.”

The breakdown on the very steep arete with a great focus on the right heal is,
Sit start; 2 moves 8B+ (C)* and 4 moves 8B
Stand start: 2 moves 8B/+ and 8 moves 8A

”I think it is a hard 8C+ if you start from the second move and possibly 9A+ from the sit. You can not chalk until the 8A section but still not sure if is effective.”

Camille (178 cm), who started climbing at age 18 and sent an 8A in Font in less than two years, is known for his hard grades.

* Nico Pelorson, with a 190 cm ape-index, has done the two first moves but he has abandoned the project as he had bigger problems with the other heal hooking moves.

David Graham reports on Instagram that he has made the first repeat of Camille Coudert’s Bloody face (8B+) in Valle Bavona, giving it a personal 8C grade.

The 43-year-old made his first 8a headline in 2000 and has since been one of the world's strongest climbers. In total, he has sent close to 30 boulders 8C or 8C+ and interestingly almost half of them during the last three years.

Camille, who did the FA after just three sessions comments, “I am happy that he succeeded in the boulder, regarding the rating I find it good that he gives a personal opinion, if the other repeaters do the same thing chosen this will make it possible to establish the fairest rating. Personally I didn’t feel the 8C but it’s true that the bouldering was in my style.”

Amity Warme has repeated Joel Unema’s five pitches Real Ultimate Power P1 (8b+) in Flagstaff Hinterlands. “Full in a day ascent of the whole route. I came straight off of doing Dickel's, Cult Leader, and Cousin of Death and this one is most certainly a step up from all of those so definitely warrants a 14a rating in my book as compared to those three. Mantled the rim of the canyon at the top and enjoyed a few minutes feeling thankful for the experience.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
In the sandstone canyons outside of Sedona, AZ, there are a series of 5 star multipitch routes - all 5 or 6 pitches. Two of them go at 5.13d (Cousin of Death, Cult Leader), one at 13c (Dickel’s Delight) and Real Ultimate Power at 14a. They were all established by local crusher Joel Unema with help from Blake McCord. These routes are sort of ‘off the beaten path.’ Each of the 13s has only received a couple of repeats and no one had made a complete in a day ascent of RUP (although Joel had sent all the pitches and easily could have sent the full route if circumstances had provided the opportunity). I started working with Joel as my climbing coach at the beginning of 2024 and he had told me about these amazing routes. This past fall, I made it my goal to climb each of these routes in a day, including the first full ascent of RUP. After completing all the 5.13s, I turned my attention to RUP. I spent a total of 6 days TR soloing the crux pitches and then another 6 days giving lead burns.

I sent the crux pitch a couple of times but a broken hold on the 5.13 pitch and a couple of other tactical errors prevented me from sending the whole route until finally on my 12th day on the route, it all came together in a magical no falls day supported by my good friend and climbing partner, Brent Barghahn.

All of these routes, dubbed the ‘Vortex Quadrilogy’ provide incredible climbing, unique features, an unforgettable landscape, and deserve more attention!

Alex Megos did the FA of Tuareg Blanco two weeks ago. "Good start to the year. The trip paid off now 😅 I started working the route when we came to Margalef after Christmas and have pretty much been focusing only on that route. I didn't do anything else really and for about 10 days only worked the moves and sections."

Matisse Almira-Colcombet, who previously has sent one 8B, has done a great PB by doing Juneru (8C) in Albarracín, on his second session. ”What an unexpected send, 1 year and a half after beginning bouldering outside (<3Sam), my first 8c in da pocket ! Sooo Happy !”

Can you tell us more about that great PB ascent?
Im very happy 😃🤩 About the ascent, it's my first 8c and I climbed it in two sessions. I tried the postions on the first one and I tried 3 moves did one only (the easiest). Then 2 days later after a rest day I came to the boulder without expectations, I never did any 8b+, neither 8a+ , just one 8b and few 8a's, so 8c was far in my mind and this protected me from a part of the mental game. I did a 1 h sesh on last friday originally with the goal to feel the positions/moves with power spots, and the send go was supposed to be a working go with a power spot in the crux ! But I turned out that my friend didn't pushed me and I find my way to the top unexpectedly. (The go before the send I broke a bit the crux hold, the right shoulder, and so I wanted to try the crux again).

Nicolai Užnik flashed American Gangster (8B+) last November. "American Gangster was high up on my list for a while since got really close on flashing Anam Cara (8B+) this summer. I was psyched to try flashing this grade again and so I just went for it. Quite surprised it actually worked out on the flash since it‘s quite low percentage!"

Sofya Yokoyama, who was #11 in the Innsbruck Boulder WC last year, has during the last three weeks done three 8A’s in Chironico; Nobody ist der Größte (8A), Teamwork (8A) and Le Pilier (8A).

Can you tell us more about sending those three 8A’s?
It’s been really fun being able to spend my pre-season a lot more outdoors. I wasn’t one to climb much outdoors before so I feel like I progressed quite fast by just climbing more on rock. Not only do I feel so much stronger but also a lot more comfortable (I definitely needed a bit of time to adapt from comps).

I had already tried Le Pilier and Nobody ist der Grösste once before and struggled quite a bit, especially with Nobody. Then came back a couple months later and felt so good! Really surprised myself with the send of Nobody since I was missing quite a few links the first time.

Then someone suggested trying flashing Teamwork. I was really close but just missed one of the crimps. But happy that I was able to send straight after!

Daniel Fuertes, with 26 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has completed Digital System Extension (8c+) in Santa Linya.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had the route in mind since I did the first pitch ten years ago, but we have been a long time without going to the cave... Now we are motivated here, it is very good with the family and there are many projects!!! My projects are actually different, but I had this route in mind and I wanted to do it to the top, it has been good for me to gain physical shape and motivation!!!!

How come is this your first hard route in over a year?
Last year in spring I couldn't do the projects that I was trying (in sports you don't always achieve your goals). Then in the summer I rested and in the fall I was studying and I had little time to try hard routes. Now my project is Fuck The system (9a).