
26 January 2025
Matisse Almira-Colcombet ticks Juneru (8C)
Matisse Almira-Colcombet, who previously has sent one 8B, has done a great PB by doing Juneru (8C) in Albarracรญn, on his second session. โWhat an unexpected send, 1 year and a half after beginning bouldering outside (<3Sam), my first 8c in da pocket ! Sooo Happy !โ
Can you tell us more about that great PB ascent?
Im very happy ๐๐คฉ About the ascent, it's my first 8c and I climbed it in two sessions. I tried the postions on the first one and I tried 3 moves did one only (the easiest). Then 2 days later after a rest day I came to the boulder without expectations, I never did any 8b+, neither 8a+ , just one 8b and few 8a's, so 8c was far in my mind and this protected me from a part of the mental game. I did a 1 h sesh on last friday originally with the goal to feel the positions/moves with power spots, and the send go was supposed to be a working go with a power spot in the crux ! But I turned out that my friend didn't pushed me and I find my way to the top unexpectedly. (The go before the send I broke a bit the crux hold, the right shoulder, and so I wanted to try the crux again).
Can you tell us more about that great PB ascent?
Im very happy ๐๐คฉ About the ascent, it's my first 8c and I climbed it in two sessions. I tried the postions on the first one and I tried 3 moves did one only (the easiest). Then 2 days later after a rest day I came to the boulder without expectations, I never did any 8b+, neither 8a+ , just one 8b and few 8a's, so 8c was far in my mind and this protected me from a part of the mental game. I did a 1 h sesh on last friday originally with the goal to feel the positions/moves with power spots, and the send go was supposed to be a working go with a power spot in the crux ! But I turned out that my friend didn't pushed me and I find my way to the top unexpectedly. (The go before the send I broke a bit the crux hold, the right shoulder, and so I wanted to try the crux again).
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