William Bosi has made the first repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. Excalibur climbs a 40-degree overhanging wall in Drena, near Arco. Initially bolted by Cristian Dorigatti and Morris Fontanari, the route was taken on by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2021. After two years of effort, he successfully completed it in October 2023. (c) crimp.films

The 26-year-old scot started attempting the route in late 2022 and had a total of 21 sessions on Excalibur. However, he notes that only ten were productive, as poor conditions limited his attempts in the others.

”This is one of the craziest and rewarding lines I have experienced and pulling onto the top of the route is something I will always remember. [Excalibur] was my longest project on a rope since Mutation (9a+ at Raven Tor UK) so I was so psyched to piece it all together finally.

The conditions make a huge difference with this route. Too hot and the holds don’t work, too humid and the holds don’t work but too cold and your fingers go numb and don’t work. Lastly, you need good skin for the holds to bite properly so I needed everything to come together to grab the ascent.

The first go of the day everything went perfectly, I felt like I was floating through the climb and arrived at my previous high point feeling strong. Setting up for the final hard move I was really confident but disaster struck and I just missed the hold and fell off. I took an hour rest, warmed up and went again. This time I arrived at the rest feeling tired battling through the upper section but on the final crux I landed perfectly into the slot. Pumped out of my mind, I almost fell jumping to the jug but just about kept it together for the top out.”

Rosen Ruev, with 8b+ as his previous PB, has done Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a) in Plombergstein. ”Such a good route. I am happy that this one is my first 9a. It starts with 4 moves of hard 8B boulder and then after a couple of of big holds you go into a nasty two finger pockets 7C+ boulder. Another classsic from Klem Loskot.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
Last season I spent a couple probably 4 or 5 sessions and this season I need 6. It was mentally challenging because Sunday was the last day I could go to the route and my last chance to do it. I fell a couple of times from the last moves and my knee was hurting from the first heel hook.

So for my climbing background I have climbed for 15 years and until 2020 I was a route climber and climbed until 8b+ and after that I switched to bouldering. This season I made my first 8B+ boulder and this bouldery route was the perfect one for me. I have tried it last year but couldn't do the crux, but this year I was feeling stronger and wrapped up the season with it.

Sera Gearhart, with four 8B’s the last 14 months under her belt, has completed Show of Hands Sit (8A+) in Moe's Valley. In the VL ranking game the 27-year-old is #2. ”Harder than you’d think for adding a single hold into the stand. I will never top this boulder out in good form, shout out to Vest for being the voice of God when I forgot my beta.”

What is coming up next?
I’ll be competing at the Triple Crown in Chattanooga and Boone! I’m trying to focus on my fitness for that event so less projecting, but hoping to try a few hard projects in the southeast on the side while we are there.

Amazing ticklist by Jakob Schubert based on two trips to Ticino: "✅ Story of three Worlds (8C+ / V16) - 2nd ascent, ✅ Return of the Dreamtime (8C / V15) - 3rd ascent, ✅ Vecchio Leone sit (8C+ / V16), ✅ Big Paw (8C / V15), ✅ Lion's Share (8C / V15) - 2nd ascent, ✅ Mithril sit (8B+ / V14)"

Noah Wheeler, who started the year by doing Return of the Sleepwalker (9A), has been on a trip to Hueco Tanks (TX) where he flashed two 8A’s as well as Slashface (8B) and Crown of Aragorn (8B).


Can you tell us more about the flashed and the beta preperation?
We came to Crown at the end of a long and hot 6-hour day, so re-warming up took an especially long time (1-hour plus). My fingers and forearms were completely numb at the top, and the grips are a bit split and crossly so it felt like I was grabbing every hold like a gecko. I had to split my fingers and squeeze the holds as hard as possible, rather than use an sort of technical crimping.

Our guide Marc was giving me beta, and I had watched a video for Slashface.

Preparing for Slashface was pretty standard! We went first thing in the morning so I just warmed up like regular and pulled on.

Gianin Regli and Štěpán Volf have repeated Dave Graham’s classical The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) in Cresciano. It was established in 2005, with its name reflecting the two grading styles that existed at the time. In practice, grade inflation was curbed, and many personal downgrades followed, particularly in Ticino. Today, The Story is considered soft for its grade, as the use of knee pads and new beta have made it easier, with some even suggesting a downgrade to 8B+.

Volf, who two days earlier quickly also sent, Nihilist sit (8B+), comments The Story: “Suits me incredibly, also I am probably in my Best shape ever. 2 days to complete, thrilled for some more!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The Story was one of my dreamline I just needed to try one day. Once I figured that I will not have any free time for climbing trip from February till June I immediately packed my pads and drive towards Switzerland to take advantsge of last week I could have free. I was in really great shape also this type of climbing suits me really well so I was confident to do it soon. Luckely everything clicked together just perfectly and did it surprisingly fast. Next year will probably return for Story of three worlds :)

What about being in your “probably best shape ever?
Always a milion dollar question. I changed a few things in my life like no more working late nights, regular sleep hours, no more light from phone but reading instead before sleep, yoga almost every morning, my girlfriend is preparing me more healthier food options, but also I gained 5kg to my autumn training preparation which I lost just at the start of winter and that training with extra weight and having more energy stores helped a lot. Guess that everything had a minimal impact on me, but together it improved my performance to another level.

Domen Škofic, the overall Lead World Cup winner in 2016, has sent Definición de Resistencia Demócrata (9a) in Terradets. The 30-year-old has previously sent 25 routes 9a and beyond. ”Incredible how well this connection climbs. Movement vice the crux is 5 stars. I enjoyed it big time and it was the perfect route to get back in shape after sickness. 4 sessions but I didn’t find it easy for 9a even with kneepads.”

Can you tell us more about the trip?
I’m here in Catalunya until the end of February. I started the trip on 15 January in Saint Leger but stayed in bed for 4 days straight because of some hard core stomach flu. Even before the trip, I had a high fever for a week so it was one sickness on top of another and I felt all my shape was gone. Now I’m just super happy that my fitness is coming back and I can play on my projects.

Adam Ondra has flashed Beta Rocasolano’s El Elegido (8B+/C) in La Pedriza. The boulder consists of 22 moves, with the first five around 8B and the remaining 17 around 8A. Adam has flashed a couple of 8B+'s before but in his usual honest style, only Jade (8B+) was not given a personal down grade. (c) Ruben Diaz

On Instagram he comments, "It is possibly the bouldering flash ascent that I value the most, even though I probably can’t take the slash grade." The picture is from his FA of Elemental (8B+). "Start like El Elegido, but after first three moves go straight. Maybe a bit harder than Elegido, but less pumpy. Good line for sure!"

Laura Pineau sent Greenspit (8b) last October. “After a journey of 4 weeks climbing on one of the most beautiful european roof cracks, I sent Greenspit! This route has always inspired me since I started trad climbing two years ago! My biggest challenge on this route was to pass the crimp moves.“

Elsa Ponzo, who did her first 8c last November, has ticked La Rubia (8c+) in Villanueva del Rosario after two months of projecting. (c) Arthur Guinet

The 28-year-old, who was #14 in a bouldering World Cup back in 2015, has for several years mainly been doing multi-pitch routes and traditional climbing. Last year provided the opportunity to climb with Caroline Minvielle in South America, leading to personal growth and ongoing collaboration. After intensive MP climbing in spring and autumn, a change of pace led to visits to iconic climbing spots like Citdibi in Turkey and Villanueva del Rosario in Spain.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
La Rubia is above all a really classy line, the one that jumps out at you when you arrive and calls you. It was above all my motivation, I was intimidated at first but by putting some fears aside and well accompanied I took a look at it. It took us two days to get to the anchor, the time to find the methods, climb between the points. I say "we" because I went with a friend and we did a kind of relay to try to get to the top of the route. A really fun, playful moment, a source of excitement and discovery.

I loved the game and that's when I devoted myself to it, I went through the methods with my friends but as usual I love to put in the maximum attempts. It was after 6 sessions on the route that I started to try it by trying the bottom. It was only 12 sessions later that I reached the end. There were many times when I fell at the big crux at the bottom, at first due to a lack of resources, then of choice of methods and often due to the cold. In the meantime, I started to try other routes to take my mind off things. It was on a day when I really had no expectations that it worked. The usual warm-up route was taken so I decided to go to see an other route and then the La Rubia line became free so I went there without expectation.

I passed the lower crux (the first time from the bottom) with my friends cheering me on and I was distracted by the noises around me which took me out of my climbing and what I wanted to do to complete the route. I fell at the second crux due to lack of desire. Once the noise had cleared, I tried again, I went back over the lower crux and there it was amazing, I was tired but present in what I was doing. I passed the second boulder problem and I found myself really pumped for the last 15 metres of climbing, and there I had one of the best fights of my life, all supported by my friends at the bottom. An unforgettable moment that makes you want to get back to work! I have four friends who climbed with me on this route, not to mention all the others present in the projects alongside, a memorable atmosphere, support, kindness, laughter, joy and a beautiful mix of cultures! :)