Stefano Ghisolfi, #4 in the Lead WC 2016, has sent his 19th route of the 9th grade. The new route is called Thunder Ribes and it's a connection of 3 previously existing routes in Arco.

Alex Puccio has done Manny 74 (AKA The Cuckold 8A+) in Hueco Tanks very quickly, and it seems she is almost back in full form after her spinal surgery four months ago. " I'm definitely fully recovered, but not back to full strength yet. Feel like I'm getting stronger and stronger, but it's a slow process. Not yet back to where i was before my injury, but I know I will get there! Not really sure on the grade. I know I have and can climb 8A+ in a session and it's my style boulder. It was really really hot out today so my main project had to take a back seat till we get back from the comp. I tried to look up what other people thought about this climb, but couldn't find anything. Oh well. Time for the Comp in Alabama this weekend and then back to Hueco!!!"

Mateusz Haladaj has done Seleccio Natural 9a in Santa Linya, which was his sixth route of the grade in the gigantic cave. "So happy to be back in the game after 4 months brake caused by pulley rupture. One of the best routes ever! Seems to be my anti-style as I had to struggle a lot at the upper section including falling 10 times at the last move. Considering two more holds are missing at the crux part, quite solid for the grade…"

It will be pretty hectic for the youngsters living outside Austria to participate in the record number of IFSC Youth Euro Cups and Championships 2017. Noteworthy is that there is just one Speedcup in the provisional calendar. 29/4 Bouldercup Graz - Austria 20/5 Bouldercup Soure - Portugal 27/5 Leadcup Imst - Austria 10/6 Leadcup Dornbirn - Austria 24/6 Leadcup Bern - Switzerland 18/7 Bouldercup L'Argentiere - France 05/8 Bouldercup Sofia - Bulgaria 12/8 Leadcup Mitteldorf - Austria 27/7 Speedcup Imst - Austria 30/8 World Champion Innsbruck - Austria 14/9 Euro Boulder Champion Slany - Czech Republic 28/9 Euro Lead/Speed Champion Perm - Russia

Here is the Top-25 in the 8a Age & Gender bonus ranking. 1 000 points bonus for female, 200 per year for below 19 year olds and 100 points bonus for 40+ guys.

Matt Fultz is knocking on the door to become a professional climber having done his first 8C in 2016.

Po rozhovore s viacerými z najlepších svetových lezcov a trénerov sa dá pochopiť, že sa toho v IFSC (Medzinárodná Federácia Športového Lezenia) deje pomerne veľa, nielen čo a týka Olympiády v Tokyu 2020. 8a poslalo svoj návrh, ako by mal vyzerať celkový a kvalifikačný formát a toto je odpoveď Jeromea Meyera z IFSC. "Jedným z problematických prvkov sú nové formáty, napríklad duel, ktoré nie sú momentálne zaužívané a preto predstavujú veľké riziko. Pomerne často sme pri našich testoch (áno, už sme nejaké robili) zistili, že výhodné by mohlo byť prevzatie toho dobrého z nových formátov a upravenie tých zaužívaných. Ale tak ako bolo povedané, stále sa na tom pracuje." Tu je zopár zamyslení sa nad tým, čo by sme mohli očakávať od pretekov na Olympiáde v prípade, že IFSC upustí od pôvodne povinnej cesty na rýchlosť, ktorá je momentálne najväčšou prekážkou. Presné detaily celkového a kvalifikačného formátu sú omnoho menej dôležité. 1. Väčšina lezcov s lanom a bouldristov sa na Olympiádu prihlási, no zúčastní sa omnoho menej rýchlostných pretekárov 2. Väčšina juniorov začne pretekať v kombinovanom formáte Svetového pohára juniorov 3. Ošiaľ v ne-lezeckých médiach začne v októbri 2018 na Olympijských hrách mládeže v Buenos Aires, 2018. 4. Súťažná scéna bude na vzostupe hlave mimo Európu 5. Do 2020 bude o približne 33% väčší počet lezeckých stien a lezcov ako tomu bolo v 2015. 6. Európski pretekári budú najúspešnejší na Olympijských hrách mládeže 2018 7. Shiraishi a Ondra získajú olympijské zlato 8. Do 2024 budú 4 sety medailí

Anna Liina Laitinen (26), who is doing University studies in Finland, has done her first 8c+, Southern Smoke in Red River Gorge. This spring she also did her first 8b+ and first 8c. (c) Matty Hong What is your climbing background? I started climbing 2007 immediately when I saw a climbing wall. I've always dreamed about climbing but I didn't know that was possible in Finland. The climbing gym where I started was 1,5 hours away from my home but I was happy to take those 3 different buses to get there even I had time to give only couple of burns. How much travelling are you doing nowadays? This year has been crazy! I've never traveled this much! I guess I've done 10-12 trips this year including the competitions? I'm lost on track. But I'd love to be able to do it even more in the future or stay abroad a little longer. How can you explain your fast progress in the last year? Travelling, training and the company I've been climbing with. One year ago I started training a lot, more than ever. But the progress is not only explained by training hard but the biggest improvement has been in a mental part of climbing and caused by just climbing a lot in a different places, different routes, and pushing myself to a situations I'm not feeling the most comfortable with. The company I've spent time and traveled have had a huge impact to my climbing as well. When your friends are climbing hard you naturally start trying harder routes. And I'm sure I wouldn't climb this hard without my positive boyfriend Matty Hong who's super psyched as well. Being super motivated and psyched to climb is my secret. And there's no end for it which is scary!

Anna Liina Laitinen (26), ktorá je momentálne študentkou vo Fínsku, preliezla svoje prvé 8c+, Southern Smoke v Red River Gorge. Len túto jar preliezla svoje prvé 8b+ a 8c. (c) Matty Hong Aká je tvoja lezecká minulosť? Začala som liezť v roku 2007 akonáhle som uvidela lezeckú stenu. Vždy som o lezení snívala, ale nikdy som nevedela, že je to vo Fínsku možné. Hala, kde som začínala, bola 1.5 hodiny od môjho domu, ale napriek trom prestupom pri ceste autobusom som tam chodila s radosťou, i keď niekedy zostával čas len na pár pokusov. Ako často v súčasnosti cestuješ? Tento rok bol šialený! Ešte v živote som toľko necestovala! Odhadom som za tento rok bola možno na 10-12 výjazdoch, vrátane súťaží? Neviem, stratila som niť pri počítaní. Ale rada by som toto číslo ešte zväčšila, alebo ostala v zahraničí na dlhšie. Čím si dosiahla také rýchle zlepšenie za posledný rok? Cestovaním, tréningom, a vďaka partii s ktorou leziem. Pred rokom som začala trénovať viac ako kedy predtým. Ale zlepšenie sa nedá podložiť len tréningom, najviac som sa posunula po psychickej stránke a to tým, že som liezla vo viacerých oblastiach mnoho rozličných typov ciest a dotlačila som sa aj do situácií, kde som sa necítila komfortne. Takisto partia, s ktorou leziem, mala obrovský vplyv na moje lezenie. Keď všetci okolo teba lezú ťažké cesty, tak prirodzene začneš aj ty skúšať niečo ťažšie. A som si istá, že by som takto dobre neliezla bez podpory môjho vždy pozitívneho priateľa Mattyho Honga, ktorý je takisto veľmi motivovaný lezec. Jednoducho byť motivovaný a užívať si lezenie, to je moje tajomstvo. A nemá to konca, čo je celkom strašidelné!

More than 25 years ago the first 9a was established, and more than 15 years ago the first 8C was reported. Although both Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma have done 9b+'s, overall progress seemingly stagnated until 2015. During 2016, the year when climbing became an Olympic sport, we have seen an extreme progress in most disciplines, suggesting that top climbers are about to take climbing limits to a new level. Here are some of the most remarkable ascents of the year. 9A by Nalle Hukkataival. A couple of guys have done 8C+. 8C by Ashima Shiraishi (15). Several girls having done 8B's. More guys than ever have done 9a+ and 9b routes. Several girls did 8c+'s and 9a's, Jain Kim did an 8c+ second go, and Janja Garnbret flashed an 8c route. Adam Ondra did the Dawn Wall in just 8 days. Charles Albert's 8C barefoot ascent is also a new standard. The number of climbers doing 9a's in 2016 is around 70, and there are about 15 female who have done an 8c, which is also a new record. When it comes to 8B+ boulderers, it is very hard to speculate but probably around 150 guys have sent a problem of this grade in 2016. When it comes to female 8A climbing, the number should be more than 25. The only disciplines where we have not seen progress is are onsight on routes and flash on boulders. The top level for onsights is 9a, but apart from Ondra, very few people have onsighted an 8c in 2016.