6 January 2017

Identifying dangerous bolts - contribute to rebolting!

After the recent frightening report from Sardinia, we asked Emanuele Pellizzari , who has been selling bolts for 15 years, to explain some more what to look out for in order to be able to identify dangerous bolts and about other safety measures. "Most of marine locations have been bolted with 304 (A2) stainless steel. Some areas are under rebolting either with 316 (A4) or other materials (Titanium/Titan Climbing or Duplex/ Fixe bolts products, or a treatment of 316/Raumer). While a zinc-plated hanger becomes rusted quickly, and therefore the level of rust define its strength (more rust means weaker), a stainless anchor looks ok, but can hold barely body weight. Given the scale of the rebolting needed, to expect all routes to be safe, we talk about a timeline of a decade and a lot of money. In some areas, more money is needed than probably the return from tourism. The general rule is that grey rock, often is less aggressive to anchors, since the rain, once in a while, washes the protections. Yellow rock (overhangs) is where most problems occur. I personally see no difference between glue ins and bolts in strength and resistance to corrosion, while some believes glue ins are more resistant. Some rocks are more aggressive than others. If a climber is not able to remember the handful shapes of hangers or glue ins used in the word, it should restrain from climbing in marine locations since he canโ€™t judge if the route has been bolted recently, rebolted, and/or which gear has been used. In other words, โ€œstay away if you canโ€™t tellโ€. Big majority of climbers canโ€™t tell, but they can study, since bolts producers are very few. If a climber does not take the care while climbing to check the protection, he should restrain from climbing in marine locations. In fact, all โ€œnewโ€ gear has marked the kind of material they are made from. Said before, to investigate the shape of hangers or glue ins, itโ€™s a matter of less than a dozen shapes. Some brands have the year of production stamped. So, if a climber checks, he can understand the kind of material and with a guess when if was bolted. Most important of all: contribute, contribute, and contribute on rebolting. Open your valet to pay. If the climbing community as a whole, does not contribute, very likely we better stop climbing in marine location in many areas of the world. A note of the materials used. 304 is lasting from 8 to 15 years in marine Mediterranean (warm) locations with some exceptions. 316 should last 30% more. How long it will last zinc plated is a guess, from years to very long. How long it will last the resin (glue) they use in titanium or duplex itโ€™s a guess since no supplier has certified the resin for these materials and neither will warranty for longer than 3 years. So, each route that has been bolted more than 10 years ago, should be checked before committing to it. My opinion is that HCR expansion bolts are the best long term choice. Better than glue ins made from titanium/duplex." More UIAA official info.
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