
5 January 2017
Viacero smrteľne nebezpečných borhákov na Sardínii a v iných prímorských oblastiach
Gianluca Piras zverejnil strašidelné video z cesty Lovely Licia 6b+ v oblasti Masua na Sardínii. Lepený borhák bol iba 10 rokov starý, pod jeho rukami sa však ulomil už po pár sekundách. Maurizio Oviglia, ktorý žije na Sardínii hovorí, že prvé takéto prípady sa objavili už v roku 2012 a odvtedy sa borháky typu 304 z nehrdzavejúcej ocele vylomili ešte pri dvadsiatich príležitostiach. Strašidelný je ale fakt, že aj istenia, ktoré sa môžu zdať vo veľmi dobrom stave sa môžu ulomiť kvôli tvorbe prasklín v dôsledku korózie od napätia (SCC - stress corrosion cracking). Tento jav je častý hlavne v prímorských oblastiach.
V tejto veci sme sa už spýtali na názor firmy Raumer, ktorá borháky vyrába a novinky prinesieme hneď, ako dostaneme odpoveď. Na tomto odkaze sa nachádza report a varovanie ohľadom hrdzavenia borhákov od UIAA z roku 2015. Maurizio Oviglia by rád varoval všetkých lezcov, aby si dávali pozor, hlavne v oblastiach Biddiriscottai, Casarotto, Millennium a Cala Fuili/Cala Lina. Treba takisto spomenúť, že borháky mali byť zasadené omnoho hlbšie, aby malo očko kontakt so skalou.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, he’s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now he’s ad…
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FA’s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. ” After four total years and three seasons of climbing,…
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Café Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Café Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessio…
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, he’s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now he’s ad…
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
”I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last year’s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering is…
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FA’s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. ” After four total years and three seasons of climbing,…
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, he’s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now he’s ad…
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
”I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last year’s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering is…
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FA’s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. ” After four total years and three seasons of climbing,…


