NEWS

Vรฝstava tรฝch najkrajลกรญch miest na lezenie
"Lezeckรฉ zรกhrady sveta" (Climbing Garden of the World) je exhibรญcia zameranรก na predstavenie lezeckรฝch oblastรญ po celej planรฉte. Vertical-Life uvedรบ tรบto jedineฤnรบ show spolu so svojim partnerom Leitner ropeways na prestรญลพnom IGA zรกhradnรญckom veฤพtrhu v Berlรญne (13. Aprรญl- 15. Oktรณber). Celรก vรฝstava sa skladรก z obrazov, videรญ a reรกlnych skรกl, ktorรฉ reprezentujรบ kolekciu pribliลพne 200 nรกdhernรฝch a legendรกrnych lezeckรฝch oblastรญ. Vertical-Life takisto uvedie viacerรฝch vรฝnimoฤnรฝch lezcov, ktorรญ pomรกhali tieto oblasti utvรกraลฅ a rozvรญjaลฅ: Daniho Andradu, Freda Nicola, Arnauda Petita, Chrisa Sharmu a Nasima Eshiqa. Video prezentรกcia. Na berlรญnskom IGA sa oฤakรกva veฤพkรก รบฤasลฅ, cca 2.3 miliรณna divรกkov. Toto nรกm dรกva ลกancu bliลพลกie predstaviลฅ nรกลก ลกport ลกirokej verejnosti, no zรกroveลˆ je to vรฝbornรก ลกanca pre lezeckรบ komunitu pozrieลฅ si vรฝstavu, ktorรก je pre nรกs ako stvorenรก. (c) Helmut Gargitter

Ghisolfi รฉs Larcher is felszรกllt a La Rambla SendingTrain-re!
Stefano Ghisolfi, aki az elmรบlt 12 hรณnapban lecsลฑrte a FRFM 9b-t รฉs mellรฉ 4 9a+ fokozatรบ utat, most beรกllรญtotta legkevesebb prรณbรกs nehรฉz รบt rekordjรกt is: La Rambla 4 menetbล‘l. (c) Paolo Sarto Facebookon, jรถtt a komment; 4 รฉve mรกr รกllt alatta, de nem volt bรกtorsรกga megprรณbรกlni - ellenben idรฉn egy flash prรณbรกval nyitott. Nah ezt nevezem รฉn egรฉszsรฉges magabiztossรกgnak. :) Kรฉt napja Jacopo Larchertล‘l is jรถtt az info a Fรกcsรฉn majdnem egy hete veretล‘s kรผzdelmet folytatott az ikonikus klasszikuson. "Mรกr csak kรฉt napunk van hรกtra a trippbล‘l รฉs mindig egyre fentebbrล‘l esek az รบtban. Remรฉljรผk a legjobbakat... jรณ esetben egy last day best say megmรกszรกst!"!". Most pedig Barbara Zangerltล‘l rรถppent az info: "Megcsinรกlta az utolsรณ napon!!! az utolsรณ pillanatban!!!!!! Yeaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh".

Steve Townshend, member of 8a since 2000, has done four trips to Railay projecting Greed 8c+. This January he made another high point with his amazing speed climbing perfectionist style and he is 190 cm tall.

Steve Townshend, ฤlen 8a komunity od roku 2000, navลกtรญvil Railay a svoj projekt Greed 8c+ dokopy 4krรกt. V januรกri tohto roka sa dostal zatiaฤพ najฤalej vฤaka perfektnรฉmu a rรฝchlemu ลกtรฝlu, ktorรฝ v ceste pouลพรญva. Treba takisto dodaลฅ, ลพe je celkom vysokรฝ, mรก 190m.

Melissa Le Nevรฉ preliezla 8B+ vo Fontainebleau
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, bรฝvalรก pravidelnรก รบฤastnรญฤka svetovรฉho pohรกra a tretia v celkovom poradรญ sveลฅรกku v boulderingu 2016, oznรกmila na svojom Instagrame, ลพe sa jej podarilo preliezลฅ jej prvรฉ 8B+, Mรฉcanique ร‰lรฉmentaire vo Fontainebleau. (c) Fabian Buhl "Dnes sa mi podarilo preliezลฅ mรดj papierovo najลฅaลพลกรญ boulder, no hlavne moju najvรคฤลกiu vรฝzvu ฤo sa tรฝka dฤบลพky krokov a psychickej odolnosti! Po viacerรฝch pokusoch, kedy som padala v poslednom kroku, som sa koneฤne mohla postaviลฅ na vrchol "mecanique elementaire" 8b+."

Fontainebleaui 8B+ Melissa Le Nevรฉ-tล‘l
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, aki tavaly #3 helyen zรกrta a Boulder Vilรกgkupa รถsszesรญtรฉst rendesen odacsapott bleauban, szรกmol be errล‘l az Instagramjรกn. A 28 รฉves francia leรกnyzรณ a Mรฉcanique ร‰lรฉmentaire nevลฑ hรญressรฉget mรกszta meg, ami az elsล‘ 8B+ -os boulder lett a ticklistjรฉn. "Ma kรฉpes voltam lekรผldeni a papรญrforma szerinti legnehezebb mรกszรกsom ever, de legfล‘kรฉpp a nehรฉz rรฉsze az รณriรกsi mozdulatok csinรกlhatรณsรกgรกnak elfogadรกsa รฉs a mentรกlis oldal volt. Miutรกn kiestem az legutolsรณ mozdulatรกbรณl a bouldernek, vรฉgรผl sikerรผlt kiรกllni a "mecanique elementaire" 8b+ tรถmbjรฉnek tetejรฉre." Melissa 9 aktรญv รฉven keresztรผl versenyzett vilรกgkupรกkon, tรถbbszรถr รกllt dobogรณn - kรฉt mรกsodik helyezรฉs a legkemรฉnyebb eredmรฉnye, a 2016 รฉvben pedig a 3. lett az รถsszesรญtett WC ranglistรกn. Sajnos ez รฉv vรฉgรฉn be is jelentette a versenyzรฉstล‘l valรณ visszavonulรกsรกt. De nem ล‘ az elsล‘ eset aki a versenyzรฉs befejezรฉsรฉvel kezdett igazรกn kemรฉny sziklรกzรกsba. Kilian Fishhuber is hasonlรณ pรฉlda lehet, aki a versenyzรฉs vilรกgรกtรณl valรณ visszavonulรกsa utรกn mรกszta elsล‘ (รฉs rรถgtรถn mรกsodik) 8C boulderรฉt a 'From Dirt Grows the Flowers' - Graham bouldert รฉs az 'Insanity of Grandeur' Koyamada plafonkimรกszรกst - mindkettล‘t Svรกjcbรณl. Egyรฉbkรฉnt Melissa neve mellett mรฉg szรกmos รฉrdekessรฉget meg kell emlรญtenรผnk. Tรถbbek kรถzรถtt nem csak boulderben jeleskedik, mรกszott 8c+ sportutat รฉs elsล‘ nล‘i megmรกszรณja lett a klasszikus Wallstreet 8c รบtnak Frankenjuraban, ami az elsล‘ ilyen fokozatรบ รบt volt a vilรกgon. Elsล‘ nล‘i megmรกszรณja a Big Five-nak; ami Fontainebleau-ban lรฉvล‘ 5 hรญres รฉs nehรฉz boulder egyรผttese, a klubba pedig csak azok csatlakozhatnak akik mindegyik tรถmb tetejรฉre kiรกllnak... (7C-8A) fokozatot kell ehhez prezentรกlni.

Dmitrii Fakirianov signs up with 8c onsight
Dmitrii Fakirianov, double Youth World Champion who finished the 2016 Lead WC with 3- 2 - 5, is a new 8a member who just onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. The Russian is on an onsight training camp in Spain; he has also onsighted four 8a+ and harder, and flashed Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya. "Before I didn't climb so much on rocks. In Europe I had the opportunity to climb on rocks in 2013 in Arco, Massone and there I did Renis Vibes 8c/+. After that in 2015 in Crimea. I did the first ascent of a very hard route named "Christmas Party". It was harder than Renis Vibes I think. I was the only one who finished it. I wanted to be humble and I graded it as "8c+/?" because I didn't tried and climbed before 9a. So how was it onsighting an 8c? "For me it was hard more mentally than physically because I didn't before onsight so high grade categories. I think that route was my style: after hard sections - rest positions, long route. It's always not so easy to break some barriers when you connecting with something new. For me in this situation that barrier was category 8c. What are you next plan and ambition? I have some plans to work on my climbing technic and strength. And to compete in some national comps. I will also soon start training Speed in order to go for the Olympics.

Impressive climbing scene in Iran
Khosro Hashemzadeh, who just onsighted Olympos Games 8b (a+) in Geyikbayฤฑrฤฑ, gave us some insight into the impressive climbing scene in Iran. Khosro has been an elite climber, coach, and route setter for many years in Tehran. "We have climbing in almost all the cities around the Iran, maybe more than 3000 climbers around the country. Also lots of outdoor climbing around the country specially in the west side of Iran. Karmanshah is the most famous one in Iran with maybe more than 500 sport routes and also a big wall (Bisotun 1200 meter) with around 50 lines on it. Also we have lots of gyms around Iran and probably all the cities have one at least. For example in Tehran there are 5 or 6 great gyms which are working pretty well. Competitions are just like all the Ifsc comps around the world and we have almost 5 or 6 national cups around Iran in all the 3 fields of climbing. Also a national team which participate in most of the world and Asian cups. We usually have to pay for all the world cups ourselves. The federation just sends sometimes a small number of people to championships. Reza Alipour was runner up in last Speed World Champion and Ali Baratzadeh normally makes it to Boulder WC semis."

From March 25th to March 26th we organize an international bouldercup in our bouldering-gym Studio Bloc in Pfungstadt, Germany: Studio Bloc Masters This bouldercup is opened for hobby- and professional boulderers, so that everybody is able to take part. Fortunately this cup unites bouldering as a spare time activity and that kind of professional athletics. Names like Alexei Ruptsov (Russia), Chon Jongwon (Korea) or Jan Hojer (Germany) are already registered. With an entire prize money of 10.000,-โ‚ฌ, Blocmasters are in no way inferior to other named cups. So, there will be a spectacular day of semi-finals and finals. But this event wonยดt be a commercial bouldercup, all profits will be donated to "Climbers Against Cancer" (CAC).

9a (+) by Sรฉbastien Bouin in Terradetts
Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done over 20 routes 9a, half of them FAs, has done Definicion de la resistencia dรฉmocrata for which he gives a personal 9a grade. "Finish the job is important! Even if you are close, you have to stay focus. Sometime is the more important." The 23 year old French has previously suggested personal down grades for six former 9a to 9b+' included some very famous ones. (c) Jonas Wiklund