
4 April 2017
Alex Huber jรณslatainak igazsรกgtartalma
1994-ben, Alex Huber megnyitotta a Weisse Rose nevลฑ mรฉszkล sportutat a Schleier Wasserfallon, mint egy 8c+ nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ utat, pont mint az Action Directe ami akkoriban mรฉg 8c+ -ra volt befokozva Gรผllichtลl. A legutรณbbi interjรบjรกban azt mondta: "Ma a โWeisse Roseโ fokozata egyรฉrtelmลฑen 9a+ lenne", az alรกbbi kรฉpen az FA kรถzben lรกthatjuk Huber bรกcsit. Az az igazsรกg, hogy a Huber รกltal nyitott Schleieri utak mรกra mรกr mind fel(jebb) lettek fokozva, s azt is รฉrdemes megemlรญteni, hogy a Weisse Rose 9a รฉs Opan Air 9a+ csak Adam Ondra ismรฉtelte egyedรผl.
Huber mesรฉlte, hogy 1995-ben a Fred Rouhling รกltal nyitott Akira รบt 9b fokozรกsa utรกn elkezdtek kicsit ellรกgyulni a fokozatok. 2003-ban Bernabe Fernandez megnyitotta a Chilam Balam 80m hosszรบ durrantรณs szรถrnyeteget, mint 9b+ -t, amit Huber erลsen megkรฉrdลjelezett, "Nem tudom komolyan venni Barnabรฉ fokozatra tett javaslatรกt, nem lรกtom azokat a mรกszรณskilleket, amik ลt ennyivel a vilรกg tรถbbi mรกszรณja fรถlรฉ emelnรฉk." - ma mรกr mind tudjuk, hogy neki volt igaza.
Az is emlรญtรฉsre kerรผlt, hogy a La Rambla original ami az elsล standig tartรณ Rambla verziรณ Hubertลl, valรณjรกban ma mรกr nem 8c+ kapna, hanem elfรฉrne a 9a-k kรถzรถtt is. Amikor รบjra kรฉrdeztรฉk Alexet รบgy elmรฉlkedett - az elmรบlt รฉvtizedben vรฉgbement "fokozatok inflรกlรณdรกsรกnak" kรถvetkeztรฉben, az oldschool mรกszรณiskolรกk szรกmos รบtjรกt รกt kellene fokozni.
Ma mรกr 2017-ben tudjuk, hogy Alex Huber az รกltala mรกszott utakkal รฉs befokozรกsokkal igazรกn megelลzte korรกt. Beleรฉrthetjรผk ebbe az extrรฉm nehรฉz nagyfalas FA-it รฉs az egyik legnehezebb solo mรกszรกsรกt a mรกszรณtรถrtรฉnelemnek a The Kommunist 8b+ -al mรฉg 2004-bลl. Utรณlag mรกr kijelenthetjรผk, egyike a mรกszรณtรถrtรฉnelmรผnket leginkรกbb befolyรกsolรณ szemรฉlyeknek, a modern sportmรกszรกsnak รฉs fokozatok kialakulรกsรกnak egyik leginkรกbb meghatรกrozรณ alakja. Kronologikusan is รฉs fokozatok tekintetรฉben is valamifรฉle รกtmenetet kรฉpez Gรผllich รฉs Sharma kรถzรถtt. Ha pedig helyes az idรฉzet miszerint; "Egy fiatal sportรกg akkor fejlลdik jรณl, ha a kรถvetkezล generรกciรณ mindig az elลzล vรกllรกra tud รกllni" - akkor Gรผllich papa vรกllรกra bizony a legjobb szemรฉly kerรผlt.
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