NEWS

Second 8b for Alex Totkova (12)
Alex Totkova has done her second 8b Bruce Lee in Dryanovo Monastery. The Bulgarian has been climbing three times a week indoors and during the weekends outdoors with her father, for only four years. The last two years she has won all the Lead comps she has done in Bulgaria, Petzen, Imst and Arco.

Nicolas Collin BEL - Franziska Sterrer AUT Leo Favot FRA - Hannah Meul GER Alberto Lopez ESP - Vanda Michalkova SVK Complete results No nation dominated but Germany, who has had several years of not so good results, was the only country with three medals. Nicolas Collin was the only winner who also won the qualification. On average, the winners of the semifinal ended just as #4. One possible explanation for this is that the semi winner has the worst friction on the holds, as seven climbers have tried them for 35 minutes before they start.

It is said that tight cooperation among the Japanese climbers is part of their success. Everyone is participating in the sharing in order to optimize their performance which is also part of the Japanese culture. How the competition climbers cooperates during the observation is also something non-climbers are really fascinated about. This sharing culture is nice to follow and pick up on the federations Facebook pages. Almost every week, you read about how different nations have had some training sessions or have joined some local competitions. Another example of this is that four days before the World Cup in Munich, Boulderwelt invites competitors for a pre-comp down in semi mode on four problems. "After the simulation, the route setters will talk you through boulders, explain what their ideas was and give you feedback". It is free of charge and there are still some open spaces!

Laura Rogora reports on Facebook, "Unfortunatly a little injury in my finger stopped me from trying "Biographie". Anyway, Ceuse is full of beautiful lines to climb. Today I sent "Dures Limites" 8c." In total the 16 year old has done 12 routes 8c to 9a during the last 12 months and she is #1 in the female ranking game as well as in the Age and Gender bonus ranking game.

The 8a Ticklist gives you the best climbs in the world
There are now over 4.4 million star rated ascents in the 8a database. In the Ticklist, the 4,173 biggest crags and the 1,744 biggest boulder areas in the world are listed. These lists will guide you to climb the best and and most popular climbs in the world. You have different search criterias like: Grade, Onsight/Flash Rate and Stars. You can also check who has done the ascents and read their comments. In the crag Ticklist, you will also find the trend popularity ranking. For each crag you will also find the average onsight percentage as well as star rating. For each crag, you can also find who has done the hardest ascents the last month, and which grades and months are most popular.

8b+ again by Chaehyeon Seo (13)
Chaehyun Seo, who last year did her first 8b+, has done one more, The Colinator in Rifle and the 13 year old did it in only three attempts. The years ago, she also created headlines by onsighting an 8a in Kalymnos. Her father Jongkuk is a gym owner and also a successful ice climber UIAA competitor. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly enjoys climbing. Because of this reason, we go out on fairly long climbing trips every year. This trip is her 4th with me."

8C FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni has done his fourth 8C through the FA of Hazel grace in Gottardo and the 20 year old is #7 in the ranking game. Next project is to do the logical sit start to it. "It took me around 6 days to do the first crux move, but luckily I did it only once since I knew exactly what to do on the second part. This summer was the first time I trained in a serious way (with Luca DiBiase) and I visibly see the improvement."